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Callie Beller Diesel

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Everything posted by Callie Beller Diesel

  1. Most glazes will settle out somehow if left for a month. It’s just a function of minerals that are ultimately heavier than water settling out of suspension. Hard panning is a result of some minerals being heavier than others, and various ionic charges working on certain particle shapes to really suction themselves to each other. You don’t want to deflocculate a glaze that hard pans, you want to flocculate it so it stays suspended when it’s mixed. It will still settle, it just won’t get all rock hard. If the glaze has 10% kaolin or more, you can make a saturated epsom salt solution and
  2. The first video embedded there is by Sue Mcleod . Having read both Pete Pinnel and Tony Hansen, I have to say Sue’s in-depth explanations of glaze rheology are far better. She puts how when where and why in extensive and very easy to understand terms on her website. She also has the rare animal of a Facebook group that regularly posts accurate information and answers to questions. https://suemcleodceramics.com/blog/
  3. It depends on the recipe, and the definition of engobe can vary depending on where you are in the world. If you’re working with a vitreous slip, yes it will stick. If you’re working with a commercial underglaze, some will and some won’t. It depends on the brand.
  4. Well, I finished my only in-person Christmas sale up last weekend, and I think it went not too badly. The usual format is 4 days, everything being quite crowded, and typically 15K visitors through the rural, mostly outdoor venue. They're not kidding when they say it runs in all weather. Because the event is held at a horse racing track in a reasonably affluent area and has nothing else surrounding it, anyone attending typically is there with a purpose. This year, in order to control crowd levels they did a ticket pre-buy that resulted in 14K visitors through the same space over 8 da
  5. There’s actually a number of things that could be causing it. Do your glazes contain lithium? Or a boron/calcium combination? If yes to either of those two things, has your bucket been stored below about 15*C? Lithium will precipitate out, and calcium/boron crystals form when your bucket gets too cold. The calcium boron ones can be pretty stubborn, and I’ve noticed they can cling to the bottom of a bucket that’s sat for a few months. As a side note, I found using a saturated epsom salt solution rather than the dry stuff seems to keep it from recrystallizing. I don’t know if it’s beca
  6. It's tricky to tell with your sweater being so bulky. Are you bracing your elbows just on the splashpan, or somewhere on your torso? You should be bracing on your torso. That way you can use your body weight to help center, which will help things go more smoothly.
  7. If your forearms are rubbing on the wheelhead or the bat, it sounds like you're leaning over too far. +1 for a picture, and we can make suggestions about posture.
  8. I can confirm that if a farmer's market has the right shoppers, you can make a tidy sum in a few hours. I tend to bring a pared down display so that I can tear down in about 20 minutes. People also seem to buy a lot of mugs and berry bowls, but I've also gotten a number of larger orders from people who recognize me as a regular. The farmer's market I go to has been active for a few decades and has always had potters at it. People go there expecting to find it.
  9. When I first transitioned into more full time clay work, I did notice that because I was using my glazes more frequently and consequently keeping them stirred up on a regular basis, I had to sieve them less. When I was only having a glaze day every few months, glazes had more chance to hardpan and do other things that required sieving. As a part timer, I had to sieve all the glazes every time I wanted to use them because they'd been sitting too long. Now I only really do it when I add material to the bucket. I also found it saves scraping to give the inside of the bucket a quick swipe after a
  10. I'm of the opinion that just because I may not be inclined to use a piece of tech in my own practice, that doesn't make it an invalid approach. I've seen some really interesting things done with a 3D printer for mold making, or even for it's own sake. But I am not a drafter, and my mind doesn't think along those precise lines (heh). I will likely never use a 3D printer, but I love the work a friend of mine is doing in printing masters so he can slipcast screw tops for some bottles he's making. I personally dislike using a Giffen grip, but allow that it's a perfectly valid tool for others to
  11. Ball milling some stains will change the colour of them. You can get finer sieves from laboratory supply places. The sieve you’d want are used for various forms of soil sample testing.
  12. I don’t know that there are any special considerations for candle containers other than a smooth inside so it can be cleaned out later. When they’re burning, the heat goes straight up from the wick, so thermal shock isn’t a big deal.
  13. Beeswax should be fairly stable. If you get the less processed stuff though, it may yellow the work a bit. Which might be advantageous or not, depending on what you like. I concur it will probably need to be reapplied. Mineral oil might be another alternative, and if it needs to be reapplied, most households will have it around for wooden cutting boards or butcher block surfaces.
  14. If you're a long way off from shipping, I wouldn't worry about sourcing super fancy packaging. To me, one of the most eco friendly options is to use something that you can source within your hometown. The less distance anything has to travel to you has an impact on fossil fuel use. If you have a source of cardboard boxes and reused packing material that is local to you, it's probably best to use that rather than order something brand new that has an eco pedigree that has to get to you via ocean freight. If you do get to the point where you need a steady supply of predictably sized shippin
  15. It looks like the shop that Sorcery has linked to might be the Ikebana artist, not the potter. It seems like there's pots in a few different styles there, so they are likely sourcing from multiple potters. As far as those surfaces go, I think there's how they were produced, and how we might approximate that under the conditions you've specified (slipcasting, and assuming an electric kiln). You haven't mentioned a firing temperature, but I'll assume you mean to fire at cone 6. None of these surfaces are a result of glaze alone: the clay body is going to play a big part of surface developme
  16. Even when you get wax just right, there's still a tiny bit of wiping to do, but it should be touchups, not a major job. I don't use alumina in my wax, but I find it helpful to give lid galleries an extra wipe down with clean water, just to make sure there's no glaze residue left. I do get a little sticking, but a quick gentle tap with a wooden stick releases them easily. I use the stuff from Plainsman, and get best results if I leave it out for 6-8 hours to thicken to the consistency of whipping cream first, rather than thinning. Then you don't get drips. To avoid your brush getting clogg
  17. It makes you want to hit your face with a book.
  18. Nothing with Gerstley should need either bentonite or Epsom salts.
  19. @BoyMomif you have a look at the OP’s profile, they haven’t been back to the forum in 5 years, unfortunately. If your grandmother’s china was bone China or porcelain, your best bet is probably the sandpaper methods mentioned. You should be able to polish the edges to a glassy finish if you use increasingly smaller grits, like the kinds used for automotive finishing. If you were to do do a lot of it, some diamond sanding pads could be worth tracking down.
  20. It depends on the brand. Some you can without it sticking, some will pluck. Some colours within the same line will work better than others. Some colours will flash onto the shelf or surrounding pots. It’s a good idea to do a little test pot on a cookie or a waster before you commit to a bunch of them. Keep in mind most underglazes have a wide range of possible application times, so you can run the test before applying the underglaze to your main project. You should also bear in mind issues of long term durability when you’re talking about functional work, especially if you plan on se
  21. @kayleyvdb I also have a kiln outdoors in an unheated garden shed. It’s not necessary at all to down fire if temperatures are in the 14 C (57 F) range. I don’t down fire even when it’s -20 C (-4 F). The difference in cool off times between my summer and winter firings isn’t significant. The relative difference between top firing temperature/room temperature and top firing/freezing isn’t that great.
  22. You could always do an absorption test on a small sample before you commit to a larger batch.
  23. What Min said. If the chunks are really big, use hot water. It helps break the pieces down faster.
  24. Also, different base glazes will alter the colour of some stains. There is, unfortunately, no getting away from testing.
  25. It may or may not remain or be obvious. It’ll depend on how much salt they get.
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