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Callie Beller Diesel

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Everything posted by Callie Beller Diesel

  1. If you’re buying the whole dry bags from Plainsman, it comes in 20 kg measures. So no need to convert back and forth to Imperial. 20,000g at 1/2 a percent is 100g. Weird that you’re not finding the Epsom salts to work, @Min. I just mixed a 2kg batch of it last night, and the solution worked fine on it. I didn’t use the premix though: I just used my own raw materials.
  2. If he added it dry, it can take quite some time to dissolve, especially if the crystals are the big ones they sell as bath salts, and if you’ve used cold water to mix your glaze with. Sieve them out if possible and give the batch a thorough mix to see where you’re at. If it turns out the salts didn’t have a chance to dissolve and the glaze is quite thin or settles fast, you can take the material from the sieve (and probably more besides) and dissolve them in boiling water to make a saturated solution. You can then add that solution a few tablespoons at a time to your glaze batch, mix
  3. Did you add it as dry material, or did you add it as a saturated solution? If that’s 1/2 kg dry in a 5 gallon bucket, yes that is definitely excessive! You will likely have a congealed mess when it all dissolves. If you can, screen it out! Epsom salts will show their effect quickly when you’re using them already dissolved, but you need to stir the bucket thoroughly to incorporate before the effect is visible.
  4. I’d pay someone to set up a proper Shopify website and hire someone to do my social media/newsletter marketing.
  5. The thing that comes to mind for me is that plaster breaks down with heat. At a quick search for the specifics for hydrocal, I found this quote from the online product sheet: “The maximum temperature at which USG Hydrocal White Gypsum Cement molds are safe from calcination is 120 °F (49 °C). With substantial free water in the mold, a higher drying temperature can be used without difficulty.” It’s referring to drying a hydrocal mould properly to make sure it’s got optimal absorbency, but my question is how friable does hydrocal become when heated to more than twice that recommended r
  6. I think some of the issue is coming from the fact that some older designs are still timely and useful (treadle wheels for example). Perhaps some of this could be better articulated as a low tech vs high tech definition. Low tech is typically a simpler design, although may be considered out of date in some instances (various kiln controller advancements, for example). High tech can be defined as being relatively new or having more advanced features (treadle wheel vs one with an electric foot pedal). As far as last week’s discussion went, a 3D printer is basically a jazzed up extruded with a
  7. @Sorcery I’m not too worried about not posting links to my own website somewhere other than my signature. You can still click through easily and have a poke around to see what’s what. And we do get people from time to time who try to use the forum as a place to softly (or firmly!) push their businesses, so we have to word the terms of use the way we do. It lets us boot spammers without any fuss. We want to be a place where you’re not being sold to when you want information. Its important to note too that SquareSpace is different than Square. SquareSpace began, and still primarily is
  8. So the platform I use is Square, which I used because I was already set up with Weebly with my previous website, and because I use Square to take payments. (Square bought weebly in 2018 so it could expand its e-commerce capabilities). My website is in my bio at the bottom of this reply if you want to take a look. I won't link directly in the answer here, because I have to set a good example about not selling via the forum here. The specifics of building a listing from scratch will vary a bit from platform to platform, but generally it involves filling out a kind of online form with all th
  9. @Sorcery If you don’t want to have a bunch of listings saying “sold out,” you can usually just hide them with a click. It saves having to rebuild them when you restock.
  10. Since they're ornaments, if you wanted the underglaze to be smooth and/or shiny after the underglaze is fired on, you could just spray a coat of Varithane.
  11. Frankly, I'm studying up on using Facebook and instagram ads in order to try reaching some more people for a last minute online sale, and if that works, I'll look at some methods to use them to increase my email list. I spent yesterday in a tutorial, and making sure I have everything set up properly so I can track metrics. I will report back when I have more information. Would anyone be interested in a separate thread on a running observation of that process, whether it succeeds or fails? It sounds like while initial vaccinations will begin in the early part of next year for essential se
  12. It would be far faster to re-do it than to try and sand a glaze coating off. Unless you have access to a sandblaster.
  13. Tin in small amounts can be used to clarify a glaze. It doesn't begin to opacify things until you get into the 7-10% range. Lots of cone 10 celadons will have a percent or two of tin to help clear them up.
  14. Um, given that custom pet portraits on paper start at about $75 CAD and go up from there, yes. You might want to reexamine your pricing structure.
  15. I would suggest that this one should be quite inexpensive. A quick google shows it’s discontinued and it could take some hunting to find a manual or replacement parts for it. And it seems to be a test kiln, not very large.
  16. Had to look up what Duron was. If it’s the Masonite I’m familiar with, I’d be worried about it degrading with constant wetting and drying. I switched from canvas to a smooth patio block and haven’t looked back. I do however have some 3/4” MDO bats that I made 20 years ago that are still going strong with no sign of warping. They have never been treated in any way. If I were to make a wooden worktop, I’d be inclined to use that.
  17. I have a cone sitter kiln and I’ve never used kiln wash on the sitter points. No issues in over 100 firings.
  18. @Mark C. That’s actually really interesting. From a dollar perspective, I tend to aim for $1000 a day throwing, but spend the day after finishing.
  19. If it’s pooling and pinholing in the centre, refiring is likely to make it worse. The fluidity here makes me think that it will at least start to melt at bisque temperatures, but a partially melted glaze is going to be even worse than the existing situation. So I don’t think adding clear glaze is going to help. Since you’ve sold it already, you have a couple of options. 1) Refund your customer and apologize. 2) Explain there’s been technical difficulties without giving too much detail, ask your customer for patience, and remake it for them. If you’re thinking of working more professi
  20. I fall in the more expensive mug category (and isn’t it funny that we all seem to measure so much around mugs?). First, I don’t wedge for mugs. The amount of clay is too small, and the particle business gets sorted out in the coning. I do wedge for 2 lbs or greater. I weigh out for the week’s production list, which isn’t done all in one sitting, usually on a Monday. That takes maybe an hour, hour and a half. Throwing mugs is at a rate of 2 1/2 minutes each, so about 24-25 mugs an hour. Some forms are a bit faster if they don’t require a lot of shaping. In a given week I can comfortably a
  21. Sue Mcleod had this article in Ceramics Monthly at some point this year, I think. https://suemcleodceramics.com/how-to-calibrate-your-kiln-sitter-for-accurate-firings/
  22. Hi @Rie and welcome! I've split your question off from the thread you started it in so that you can get answers that are specific to your area.
  23. Hi and welcome to the forum! I think a little of how you go about shipping depends a bit on your typical purchase and how frequently you ship. Your process may be different if you're sending out a lot of single small items all the time than it would be if you're shipping large or multiple pieces occasionally (less than once a week). My inclination in either case would be to charge the customer once, rather than have 2 separate transactions for product and shipping. There's a lot of if/then scenarios that could be at work here, and if I had a bit more information I can tailor my answe
  24. Mark hasn't chimed in yet, but he's said in the past he just orders half of his yearly clay mixed wetter than the half he intends to use first. But it would depend a bit on how much you're ordering. Personally, I have the luxury of being in the same city as my supplier, so I tend to get only what I'll use in a quarter.
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