Hulk

I have a Brent C, circa 2004. So far, I’ve wiped it down a lot.

I bought a used Brent off of E Bay  four or five years ago.   The previous owner had replaced the motor but still couldn't throw very well on it,  he was a newbie.  When I got it home I noticed the foot pedal was out of adjustment.   It was so bad I thought I would have to buy another,  while researching on the internet I found easy directions to repair it.  It only took a few minutes,  I wonder if  he really needed that new motor he spent $400 on.     Denice

Still feeling lucky to have found a deal on a used wheel (pre-owned, it hadn't been used), several years remaining on original warrantee.
It needed a bat pin upgrade and a bit of commutator polishing, that was right after getting it home.
I went with stainless socket cap heads, washer, lock washer and wing nuts on t'other side, threads prepped with Permatex Never Sieze.
I didn't invest in a special tool for polishing; instead, a soft wooden stick with a piece of 600 grit sandpaper taped on there - there weren't any flat spots, ridges or grooves to clean up.
After working with it for a few years, I twiddled the controller adjustments a bit, wanting a smidge higher rpm at full gas, and a bit less of speed holding.

Pres pull the bottom plate off that foot pedal and use a hair dryer on low on the potentiometer then let it sit 
I have 5-6 Brent wheels and one from the 70s needed a new curcuit board last year and a new power switch this year-that wheel is a model C and has run the longest here.

Hi MikeS,
See John's post, above, "The direct fit replacement ...NTN 6005LLU/LP03..."
Still listed by Misumi, also Grainger, and several others.
I'd recommend measuring height, ID and OD afore ordering, at which point you'd already know if the bearing could be removed without damaging/destroying the bearing holder.
See also MTN Flange Block Bearing, might save some headache? I'm seeing two and four bolt options, but didn't go so far as cross referencing the dimensions, etc. The models with zerk fitting, oh, I like that.
Looks like MTN has stateside tech support: BearingQuickReferenceGuide-EN-Web.pdf (ntn.ca) see pg 2
Good luck!
Post back your results please.

I am lucky that I am able to participate in his “journey” workshop this year. It’s all about developing your voice as a potter. Has anyone here taken it? 
I took a class with him last year. His critiques work for any aesthetic and the perspectives I got about my own work has helped me “see” things that I didn’t notice before… things like lines, and flow. 
I am huge admirer of mike Strumbras’ work and didn’t realize Steven worked with him.  
The workshop requires 2 books to be read before it starts. “Big magic” and “steal like an artist”. 
After reading steal like an artist, it says to write down all the artists that you admire (and research them), things you prefer, things you have always loved etc. So far, writing these things down has given me more clarity than I expected. I feel like a world has opened up to me and I want to explore so many more things in my work (fresco style architecture, Heironomous Bosch inspired everything, and dark /misunderstood topics) 
Long story short, I would love you to ask, who is your favorite artist/maker/writer etc… and what would they make if they were working in clay today?  Have you taken his workshop? I would also love to hear what happened for you during: thanks! 

When I used my Peter Pugger 20ss for mixing dry clay I found that aiming for about 25# dry ingredients was about right for a batch.  just mix your dry ingredients well and then add with water until full.  It took a while to figure out how to avoid the spins, but not bad.  Pug out a batch and then add in the next 25# and go again.  I would usually let it sit a few days and then repug it to the specific moisture content I need.

It's a rather long run to Los Angeles basin, Bay Area, or Sacramento - allow four or more hours one way.
So far, have stopped in whilst on the way to somewhere else, or on the way home from somewhere else...

About an hour drive to nearest, or 5 hours to Stoke-on-Trent (aka "The Potteries") with a number of suppliers. 
Pottery association has cheaper clay, but is about 75 minutes drive, or I wait until Summer Potter's Camp and collect it there.

I have to drive to Maine or Massachusetts (I'm in New Hampshire), so I mostly don't. I usually use Sheffield or other inline sources.  

15 minutes to Alpha Fired Arts in Sacramento which has most of what I need in stock. They are slowly rebuilding their stock after Covid slowdowns...

I am lucky,  I  have a supplier that is about a 20 minute drive.  The next closest supplier is in Kansas City which 175 miles from my house.   I needed a bag of Flinthill Clay to complete a project, my supplier didn't carry it anymore  so I had to order it from Kansas City.   They had bought the  Flinthill Clay Co.,  I paid 25$ for one 25lb bag of clay and 25$ freight on it.   My local ceramic shop doesn't have much clay in stock right now.   I hope what I have in my shop will last me until they get more clay in.    Denice

right now, mapquest says i can get to highwater in clearwater, fl in 14 minutes and it's recommended route is 5.2 miles.  maps do not show that most of that is through heavy garbage truck  traffic to the landfill and all the many trucks servicing the  industrial areas.   i choose to drive 5.3 miles on normal highways.
at home in wv, it is about 65 miles to baltimore or 65 miles to alexandria va.   i love going to baltimore and visit lots of places while i am there.

200 miles, 4 hours one way to Denver.  A couple of mountain passes, but we have friends and family in Denver so it's always fun to make a trip out of it.  Restaurants, museums, shows.  You make it count.  And all my friends and family know where the clay shop is, so I can pay for it over the phone and they will stop to pick things up for me.  It works.
 

About 40 minutes. It's an easy drive, never any bad traffic since it's all interstate highways in the 'burbs. I don't mind going there because near it is a Japanese market that has really good carry-out sushi. I always time my trip so I can get lunch there.

@GEP I don't think cleaning a Shimpo/Nidec is anything like as difficult as any other pugmill.  Now that I've seen a video of someone cleaning out a Bailey (and only partially at that) I agree, that's an ordeal.  No wonder my Engineer clay friend doesn't like it!  I could swear I'd been told the Peter Pugger was worse to clean out and the Bailey was "easier" (than the PP) but it sure looks the other way 'round.
But the Shimpos have a clamshell cover over the augur and the nose cone comes off entirely.  @Russ says its a 5 minute cleanout, and it may be for him. (Hey, Russ, btw, how long have you had yours?) I'm pretty sure it would take me longer than that, but at least considerably less than the 2 hours @Min mentions for her Bailey.  2 hours for me to clean one of those would probably be extremely optimistic LOL!
I'm coming to this late in life, after decades trying to get here.  So no, I don't want to limit myself to one clay.  Were I younger and still up to wedging I might feel differently, but that's not where I am.  I love the red clays, I want to try some of the really delicate porcelain stuff, I want to burnish and that's earthenware.  I like the exposed clay bodies, which is why I don't much care for the "white" stoneware at the studio where I've been working.  Fired to bisque, its a sort of insipid pink with red spots - apparently it has a fair amount of iron for a "white" clay. Glazes tend to pinhole over it.  Due to the changing of the guard over there, there are problems with it anyway right now but they're dead out of the B-mix clone they usually have that I might have tried instead.  Anyway.  I've never cared for the white clays much.  Hsin Chuen Lin has inspired me to learn the porcelain, but I don't want to give up my lurvely lurvely reds.
Besides, I've been told I'm the cleanest potter anyone has ever met.  I would probably clean a pugmill between batches anyway.
So whatever time I've got left, I want to spend it doing what I want to do and if that means getting an expensive piece of equipment like a pugmill and cleaning it out once in awhile, that's what I'll do. I know 100% that cleaning it out once in awhile is going to beat the drudgery and physical stress of trying to wedge hundreds of pounds of clay. At least I have the wherewithal to manage it financially (though nothing extra LOL!).  I've had a windfall and I intend to spend it.  What the heck would I be saving it for at my age?  LOL!
I just hope that I don't find out something bad about the Shimpo's now that I've got all excited about them.  Like you can't get parts or they break down all the time.  Or the free shipping ends before I have space for one.  EEEK!
Thanks for your comments.
Pye

It's a rather long run to Los Angeles basin, Bay Area, or Sacramento - allow four or more hours one way.
So far, have stopped in whilst on the way to somewhere else, or on the way home from somewhere else...

It's a rather long run to Los Angeles basin, Bay Area, or Sacramento - allow four or more hours one way.
So far, have stopped in whilst on the way to somewhere else, or on the way home from somewhere else...

I have a supplier about 10 minutes away. that said there was no supplier within a 8 hour drive most of my 50 year career . So I had to be my own supplier and thats almost still true today. I do buy a few items locally when I'm in need between my usual truck orders.Its a small shop with no equipment for sale usually

Seventy five miles is the closest, in Seattle, but requires taking a ferry so it's about 2.5 hrs travel one way. The second closest shop is in Tacoma, one hundred miles away, but just under two hours drive, so that's where we shop. I coordinate with a potter neighbor to make supply runs.

Nearest one to me is about 20 minutes, but that assumes you aren’t going through the industrial area when they’re backing and loading cars in the train yard. This causes many a long traffic line because of the one lousy intersection.
But if I go to the supplier, it’s usually a good 4 hour errand, because the place I get shipping supplies and the place I get my bags and tissue are also on the way. Plus you have to allow for the gossip time while you’re there, the Tim Horton’s run, etc etc. 

Interesting question Pres. I drive about 50 minutes to get to Portland Pottery's Braintree, MA store. I am grateful to have a place nearby. They sell Laguna and Standard clays. I can easily pick up clay and materials.
One day I am going to take the 3 hour trip to Sheffield Pottery, Sheffield, MA.  And I am about 3.5-4 hours from Bailey Pottery. 
Betty

Local place is about 30 minute drive, it's the only one in the area. Before the land border shut down I would pick up most of the expensive materials either from a shipping drop site just across the border or I would drive the 2 1/2hrs to Seattle and buy materials there.
 I know exactly what you mean! Sometimes it seems unfair that there is an automotive or hardware store on every corner and yet ceramic supply places are far and few between, but maybe thats a good thing after all! I remember my dad always saying a boat was a hole in the water you throw money into, sometimes it seems a kiln is a fire into which you throw money.

Last Summer, I took a trip to Pittsburgh to buy some materials that I hadn't purchased in a long time. I happened to pull out the receipt today when working on taxes. Added up the mileage, and the lunch for my wife and myself. .  got me thinking. How far do some folks have to drive to get to a ceramics supply store. I sometimes think I am lucky to have Standard Ceramics at least 2 hrs away from me, otherwise I would be looking in there at least once a month.
QotW: How far do you have to drive to get to a ceramics supply store?
 
best,
Pres 

Hi Kswan!
I use the Peltor earmuffs quite often.
For something really loud, I'll put in the foam earplugs and the Peltor earmuffs over. More often, I'll do earbuds (to tune into, or stream my favorite local public radio shows) with the Peltors over - music/entertainment, plus hearing protection, plus clean ears!
Pottery related, the only time I use the Peltor earmuffs is when I have the overhead kiln vent system cranked up and I'm spending more than a few minutes in the Studio. The fan is rather loud.
Un-pottery related, I use hearing protection ...quite often. My studio is actually a studio/bike shop/repair shop/workshop.
I'm also wearing my P100 when cleaning up, and leave it on for a short while afterward, whilst the air wafts through via the rollup on one side and person door on the other.
Awesome lighting is a key part o' good safety strategy, imo!