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Rebekah Krieger

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About Rebekah Krieger

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    The extraordinary clay bender
  • Birthday 12/26/1979

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    Crochet, reading, metaphysical studies, meditation

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  1. Thanks! I wasn’t sure if this was a “buy sell trade” question because I asked about paying for help Or a workshop, or equipment because I was talking about a kiln. I have enough bricks for the small kiln. I will need to purchase a few arch bricks for it. Since my bricks are refurbished I was originally using mortar on the bottom half to help With the inconsistencies in the brick but I prefer to dry stack for the same reasons stated above.
  2. I have been trying to build a salt kiln and have taken apart and re built a few times. I am working by myself using Phil Rogers small test kiln design. I have read through the Olson book. I’m still feeling lost and would prefer to work with somebody who has done this before because I am moving at a snails pace constantly doubting what I am doing. does anybody know of any “pay for guidance” people (maybe somebody who can offer me advice via photos and texting every few layers?) Or small salt building workshops that are not canceled and let you leave with plans? I am planning to attend a wood- salt firing workshop in the fall and hoped I could talk to the instructor about it. I would love to be able to fire it with wood but my plans only use propane. Many have tried to steer me to build one or the other. I would prefer to have it built in august- september rather than wait another year. admin- feel free to move this post wherever it fits. I thought since I propositioned a sale it might go here.
  3. I love the bill van guilder videos on his website. hsin is very relaxing Simon Leach is great with fun classic tips now and then tim see has some great videos ceramics monthly has some good uploads on your tube also in clay buddies (Facebook) they did a video series since nceca couldn’t happen. Nceca has released some of their videos too
  4. Its also possible you are just getting extra grog separating from the clay from over working it on the wheel. I often see new throwers "hold" the clay as it spins. Try only touching the clay with intention to see if that helps. If not, its probably the older wheel head.
  5. IF there is no peep hole, then I wouldn't do anything about it.
  6. before anything, since you know it worked before, I would absolutely have an electrician check that everything is done properly. After he/she confirms it, I think I would assume the elements are damaged (probably from the move?) Replacing the elements and thermocouple are easy to do and inexpensive. If its getting proper power, heating elements would be my second guess.
  7. I looked at ceramic supply’s website and don’t see any wax resist. Amazon has a product called ceramic supply wax resist. Is that the one you recommend?
  8. Please pardon my lack of fluff here, but I feel that modern society has perverted the idea of kintsugi to be what it was never intended to be. It was never intended to be a way to repair pots that were made to sell, or to cover mistakes. . It was a way to repair long cherished pots.
  9. I recently read in a ceramics monthly magazine (from the 80’s) to insert broken pieces of pasta (be it spaghetti or something larger) to keep holes open and smooth.
  10. When I participated In Simon Levin’s wood firing, I asked the same question. They had a few reliable glazed there for glazing, but with wood firing the form and any surface design will really be magnified with the collection of ash or flashing from the flame path. Most of them look the best with minimal or no glaze at all. I would strongly discourage using a cone 6 glaze, and also a glaze you haven’t fully tested in reduction. Perhaps the person organizing the firing can allow you to experiment with some of the glazes they trust in firing. Adding all of that ash collection with your lower temp glazes could potentially drip down onto other pots. You will also learn more about the firing based on the way the pots look in varying parts of the kiln. The placement of the wads I find to be a fun way to experiment with the flame path and surface decoration. (So no glaze ... you never know what spot that pot will fit and how it will need to be placed)
  11. Ahhhh... I’m such an airhead. I just put 2 and 2 together to realize that titanium and rutile are basically the same thing. Yes, the newly mixed batches have 8% titanium PLUS 5% rutile. (And then the 2% tin) So it’s essentially 13%. Glazing is such a learning curve.
  12. Mason stains tend to be true to color. (Except for red, so getting an encapsulated red helps) i would recommend testing percentages maybe 3%, 5% 7% to see how it looks for intensity.
  13. Thank you Neil! I will be coming Saturday early eve to pick it up. Feel free to message me how much I owe you. My question to what you said... do you think it might help if I layered it on my bad pots for a re fire with no colorants added? Perhaps some scm warm sprayed under to or would that worsen the problem?
  14. http://<a href="https://ibb.co/C9v9yX7"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/WzFzXdy/32-D4-E7-B1-F539-4-FB2-B16-C-FB49565-D74-B8.png" alt="32-D4-E7-B1-F539-4-FB2-B16-C-FB49565-D74-B8" border="0"></a> hopefully that worked. Here is a better shot of some flow I get. I like the “buttery” meltyness its 2% tin 5% Rutile. I sometimes spray portions with scm warm to encourage more interesting surface too.
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