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fergusonjeff

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  1. Bill, That is helpful. I'll be doing my last wood firing of the spring in a couple weeks and will limp by with my fiberboards, but that gives me all summer to find some shelves before the fall firings. I am pretty sure they were not referring to core-lite or the nitrile bonded stuff, just newer (according to them, non-mullite) shelves. The thought was no one made "mullite" shelves any more and the newer shelves cannot handle the temperature differential of a damper in a wood kiln.
  2. I was told "new" shelves don't work like the old ones and will crack as dampers. That is why I was trying all kinds of other options. Would something like this work? https://www.sheffield-pottery.com/KILN-SHELF-p/spha08.htm
  3. Mark, I tried to find mullite shelves for dampers but was not able to . Not sure they are made any more. Do you know anywhere I could get them? The fiber boards mostly hold up, but warp a lot. I am on my 6th firing with the first set. They hold up better than my previous attempt which was 1/2 thick steel plates.
  4. Thiamant, A cheap grinder is fine. I have about 5 and most were under $20. The wheel you show is for cutting bricks, not grinding surfaces. Look for one more like this: https://www.ediamondtools.com/products/premium-turbo-diamond-cup-wheels?variant=11941428932&gclid=CjwKCAjw9MuCBhBUEiwAbDZ-7qLxkyvo0l-3rMlytTa0pH5Vy9oOgZCtsJfOoLImBx47F3tZP_-VlhoC4SMQAvD_BwE
  5. I second the diamond cup wheel. They are much more expensive than a masonry disk, but will remove glaze that masonry disks just seem to heat up. I found a diamond cup wheel at harbor freight for under $30 and eventually replaced it with another cheap one from menards.
  6. The push from underneath just goes through the lid into the knob, but not all the way through.
  7. I used to have this problem on small knobs of clay I would add to lids (at leather hard) and carefully throw. The lid and knob are at too different stages of drying. Another potter showed me a simple trick once that has worked every time. I take the blunt end of a needle tool (1/4" round) and push up through the lid into the newly added handle. I don't mind the small hole on the inside of the lid and have not had a single handle/knob detach since.
  8. This is the same clay I use for most of my cone 6 work. I usually mix it about 50/50 with other cone 6 porcelain or stoneware. Laguna makes another speckled clay you might try, but it is sometimes harder to get. I thin the number is 608. I think it trows much better than 403 but if anything it has even more speckle. I think 608 is more brown compared to 403 being more yellow.
  9. I agree with Neil. My standard cone 6 mix is 1/3 each of speckled stoneware, red stoneware, and porcelain. My cone 10 wood fire mix is 1/2 course stoneware (Rods Bod) and 1/2 various porcelains (some commercial, some home-made). The mixes all throw and fire better than any of the individual clays. I did have a light colored cone 5 stoneware once that bloated a lot at cone 6, even when mixed with other clays. I am still thinking the mixture was bad. Took a while to get all that bad cone 5 clay through my mixes.
  10. I am currently using fiber boards as dampers on my wood kiln. I got them along with some kind of liquid (I think a silica) that I painted on the boards heavily. After drying they are pretty strong. I have used the first set about 4 times and they do warp a little but have remained intact after 12-hour cone 11-12 firings. I would prefer to use kiln shelves but not sure any can handle the temperature differential across the shelf. I have used 1/2" thick steel plates, but these warp and degrade quickly.
  11. I have been using the SS20 daily for about 3 years now. Here are some answers to your questions. 1. Has anyone gotten HOLES in the center of their clay logs from a PP? Only at the beginning of the pugging. Not more than 5-6 inches with some air pockets. 2. Do PPs also have to pug super slow? My Baily was fast. I use a top speed when pugging. usually takes about 1-2 minutes to pug out 30-40 pounds. 3. Does a lot clay get all stuck in the lid? Does it have to be cleared all the time? There is definitely some that builds up on and around the lid, but not a problem to scrape off every once in a while. If it builds up around the seal it can dry out and create some vacuum leaks, but still easy to clean off. 4. Does water tend to get shoved up into the lid area clay, not allowing it to affect the batch? Mark and Glazenerd have addressed the water issue. Getting the "spins" is often a problem when adding water, but if added in small amounts in the front of the chamber it usually works itself out. 5. Is the issue with sucking back-in the clay for the De-Airing to reach both chambers at least a "reliable" and a repeatable task for success? With the PP, the vacuum is first created in the rear chamber. I usually need to start pugging to get the seal to pop and vacuum out the clay chamber. It usually occurs after pugging out about 5-6 inches. I then reverse the direction and pull the clay back in and mix for a few seconds. then just pug everything out at full speed. 6. Can you mix batches a little wet or a little dry to suit your needs, without major issues (not pugging, holes, bubbles, etc.) I adjust wetness to what I plan to throw. there are definitely points of too wet or too dry for it to work well, but usually those are outside the range you would want to use anyway. 7. Are single augers, though stronger and won't break down like dual augers, doomed to have these issues? Not sure. no experience with dual augers. 8. I can't spend more than $5,000 I think the SS20 will slightly exceed that budget. I tried for months to find a used one and gave up. Don't bother with the used list on the PP website. Most of the ones still listed sold many years ago.
  12. Thanks for the photos Min. I was not following the text description and assumed it was much more complicated.
  13. I use a lot of Laguna Speckled Buff (#403 I think) at cone 6. The granular manganese gives great speckles through any glaze I have used. I got really nice speckled white using this clay and Van Gilder's waxy white glaze recipe. The glaze is usually clear/tan in a uncontrolled cooling, but is a nice speckled white using a controlled cool.
  14. I got 10 pouds of soy wax off ebay pretty cheap. Unfortunately the candle company added me to their spam list as a result.
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