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Pres

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About Pres

  • Rank
    Retired Art Teacher
  • Birthday 08/20/1949

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    bisquefire06@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://picworkspottery.blogspot.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central, PA
  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking, family, travel, Art in general. I have a small studio in my garage. Two electric kilns, two wheels, wedging table etc. I am primarily interested in cone 6 Ox. but like to see what is going on at all ranges. Read about ceramics voraciously and love the feel of the clay and throwing. Have to admit that my greatest joy is in the making, not the glazing. That said I do mix my own glazes, some of my own formulas, some borrowed. Retired from teaching art, in 2009 after 36 years, taught ceramics 34 of those years.

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  1. That is why kiln loading was done either with student help during a class period so that they could see the amount of work that went into it, or after school when it would take a couple of hours to get everything in. best, Pres
  2. If they are leather hard or even a little more, you can use a notched rib to round them. Try drilling a hole in a thin board 1/4-3/8", then taper the hole edges so no square edge on the hole. Use this with a slight amount of water by dipping the tool into water then use it to rub, compress the rim to roundness. This type of tool is often used by handbuilders to smooth rims of mugs and other items. best, Pres
  3. Min asked recently in the QotW pool: Kiln stuffers, what does everybody make to fill those little empty spaces in the kiln? Hmm, Min I should have open spaces in my kiln? Naw, just joshing! For over 35 years of loading my HS classroom kiln I had to use every spot of space in the kiln whether loading bisque or glaze. Most of the time we had a pile of sculptural handbuilt projects, and one would set on the shelf, one would be on a brick right next to the first with the overlaps saving space. Thrown bowls were put in right side up, upside down, with things underneath or inside. Mugs were crammed in wherever, pinch pots the same. Some bisques used no shelving at all, just everything carefully stacked in to the walls on top of each other. . . very carefully. Same for glaze loads, I would sometimes have shelves 12" apart with 1/4 shelves and broken shelves in between creating overlapping layers. Yeah, I really didn't have to fill space, but even I had to fire test tiles, and they went in along with the rest. . . filling spaces. best, Pres
  4. Doubt that, but then it does work really well. Over the years I have always had trouble trimming these lids for any type of jar. One of the reasons I always threw lids upside down. Not that I have solved this issue for myself, I can move on. Wonder if I should copyright the spoon idea? best, Pres
  5. The metal cylinder cuts an oval out of the hollow form for a spoon shape. Then I add a drizzle hole in the back side of the spoon. This sets inside of the honey jar so that it is in honey all the time, when lid lifted off the honey is in the spoon, tilting the spoon with open end up drizzles honey on the biscuit etc. There are some completed one on my blog site that shows the lid laying next to the honey jar best, Pres
  6. Hi Kristy, Welcome to the forum! Recently there was a thread on home studios. As far as air filters go, best to get a commercial one set up to handle silica dust. Units usually run quite high 1-2k. When doing a search in the forum try doing a search in the main area . . .search is at the top right. best, Pres
  7. Try a mirror angled at the peep, and then view the mirror. best, Pres
  8. Just to explain cutting the spoon which seemed to confuse some folks. . . . best, Pres
  9. You know for all my complaining about my thumb, and arthritis. I am in amazingly good shape, and hope that I will remains so for a long time. My Dad is looking forward to hunting season soon as we hunt together in Northern PA. He is 91! best, Pres
  10. I do a lot of stack and slam using two different consistencies of clay. Lately I have found a course wiggle wire is even more effective, especially when spraying some moisture on to the slabs. The wiggle waves hold the water better. best, Pres
  11. The reason I am using this instead of a piece of pipe cut down is the rounded edge, and the two ends are different allowing for different lids. I actually throw my honey jar lids just a bit larger than this, but any lid that the edges go over the piece will work. It also puts the lid up higher away from the GG pads. Another one of my favorite recycled materials is in the trimming picture. Believe it or not I made the flat trimming tool over 20 years ago. A shop teacher friend had a band saw blade break. He asked if I wanted the old one. I used a vise and hammer to cut the blade into 3-5" sections and used a belt sander to round corners and remove the burrs. Most of the hack saw blades I have used over the years would wear worn spots in the blade eventually. . . not this thing. I think band saw blades are higher grade material. best, Pres
  12. JohnnyK, Looks great, the old splash pans were pretty weak, your solutions look quite good. I bought two of the CI's back in the day for the HS using district funding. They were cheaper at that time, and were pretty good. They are still running also! I hardly ever demoed on the MP, only on the HP. Most of the time my centering style would make the MP groan, or worse yet, stop. I probably would get along better with it today. However, my CXC is still kicking. I still have a fond spot for the large work table and the decent torque of the HP. best, Pres
  13. On the work bench, and in the kiln. . .mugs, honey jars and soon teapots. best, Pres
  14. All of you now know how much I love using the GG for all sorts of trimming, and assembling. Especially chalices, but lately I have solved another problem using some of my usual sources. .. the plumbing section of the hardware store. Lately I have been assembling honey jars that I add a spoon to under the lid. I throw a standard flat lid with a nob on top, then had to figure a way of trimming the bottom and adding the spoon without messing up the top or the nob. I tried foam cushions, an old mug, and other things. This is my final solution, it uses a plumbing fixture for repairing pipe. If dampened with a sponge, the lid fits can be tapped to center, pressed down to hold nicely, and will hold tight enough to allow me to trim, to add the bowl and smooth all up. Then I just lightly lift one edge to break the seal and lift off.
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