Mark C.

If the piece you are coating is broken from the inside (you did not give much in details ) Meaning its falling off or trapped by the elements. Than a repair on the outside is only a partial repair . The brick need to be glued on the crack. You can thin the cement for this inject it with a large plastic hypo. The deal is you need to keep it 100% off the elements -You can sleve these in a say plastic ot paper. just no cement on any elemnet. The other thing is less is more with cement on the outside (inner chamber) with bricks. It adds weight and will cuase more issues if to thick. I never use cement like paint-I use a putty knife or plastic small spatula orv a fettling knife. If this is yet to be fired it can be sanded down if to think still but that runs the risk of more damage. Looking at tis kiln its new looking so maybe you are overthinking it. The one photo shows only one angle so I cannot see really whats in the rear by the elements. There are lots of YOUTUBE repair videos to see what works as well.

Well shoot -I'm almost out of my lifetime supple of Kingman (on last 100# bag) and custar is my next go to. Of course my 2-6 bags are old stock so that may works for some time. Hope you get to the bottom of this -maybe at cone 10 it will not be an issue?

If this helps I have loaded an electric solid with serval hundred slip cast lamps (yes they have thin walls and are stronger egg shapes) all wet and bisgue fired then with zero issues. This was in the 90s and the kiln steamed for a long time. Kiln is manual no fine control .Thicker wall pots will take longer and slower.Steam is a powerful thing. I'm a firm beliver of the 212 boiling point of water-that said puching the limits is what I am known for. Then you find the limit and back down

Thanks Pres As to mass wearing I have a middle 40s potter firend who has long covid as he got it before covid was testable back in February 2020. He cannot do much of anything at this point all these years later as his energy level is minus 2. He is in a Stanford group long covid group. I have also seen him with a bit of dementia and well as lauguge /memory issues. He no longer can work at all. His wife had it as well in thatearly time and she has some organ issues now also in mid 40s Every time I may think about the mask issue I just need to think of my friend Seth. Masking works and i'm wearing one always around people til this is at a better place I am here to tell you long covid will ruin your life and no one knows who may get that. About 1/3 of the public was masked at that huge show in Wa state. My next show is 3rd weekend in Sept locally and am looking forward as we have cancelled it past two years.

Well lets see the show was under perfect weather condions no wind in the upper 70s and 80s for 3 calm days. Best show of my life and thats saying something. Customers heard it was my last show there after 30 straight years They came from Canada and Seattle area,Bellingham to Germany. My largest sale was from a Jeweler from Atlanta area who flew in for show and was along time customer-she heard it was my last show and bought a few boxes of pots.. Had over 750 customers over the 3 days My new fish plates in 3 sizes where a big hit and sold out in 2nd am.I raised the price 3 times on them. It was tedious telling custmers over and over why I was not coming back One thing people at shows think is you will always be there for them whenever they come. Well that was true for 30 years . They where slow to under stand that my wares sell out where I live and i have no reason to take them out of county ever again. They get it now. It was sad and a joy at the same time doing this last of my favorite show -the show is 250 artists which 25% where brand new. Less than 10 potters left now as in most shows I see nowadays. Only less than 5 artists who like me have 30 plus years in there. I meta youg potter couple in mid 40s and invited them down to our local art show and will if they ever come pass on some of my display racks for cheap as I have way to many sets of displays at this point-no more double booths for me. The diving was so so as the tides where not good and I picked up a cough/cold (not covid) on trip. I was masked whole time in the heat -no fun but I'm careful . I'll miss the show and the customers as I saved them to the end. well back to packing stuff up for 5 order drop day at local outlets

HAND FOOT WAXER is oval not round and not as deep as a crook pot-its made for feet and hands not stew-temps are easy to control. Its loaned out right now otherwise I could take a photo. its full of wax all the time-sometimes that wax is cold and hard when put away Its a PT tool for rehabbing after surgery or whatever.Hot water soak can also be helpful.

I posted that recipe long ago hear-its on all my high fire shelves. Its bullet proof and it comes off if neded as well.

Have you changed the orfices to propane size? they should be much smaller holes? than Natural gas next the tank has a regulator of shorts and then one should be near kiln?-whats your set up?

Most likely none-plug it in and turn it one

Lets deal with the belts-You need to fix the flipped belt then tighten them with the motor hinge (that tightens the belts). You can still get these from Brent last I looked. They will last a lifetime. but not if they are flipped. as to the potentiometer you can buy one and modify it -look at the Lets deal with the belts-You need to fix the flipped belt then tighten them with the motor hinge (that tightens the belts). You can still get these from Brent last I looked. They will last a lifetime. but not if they are flipped. as to the potentiometer you can buy one and modify it -look at the the 1st pinned subjest at top of equipment page by Brandon on replacing a potentiometer -she bought a cheap one and modifided it to work. Since. your old Brent has a old foot pedal and those potentiometers are long gone this is your only option The motor is mostlikely a 1/2 hp -no way to tell for sure except a motor shop visit and thats gues. at best I think you have a 1072. Brent 1/2 hp model C. New style plastic deck and plastric controller-new style. wheel head with flange for splash pan-old style foot pedal and motor.

I'm at my last out of state large street fair and just saw this post tonight Your wheel is a bit of a hybrid as its got the origiunal foot pedal (no parts for this anymore) and the plastic ribbed deck (the earlier models are flat formica on really thick 1/4 to 3/8th steel deck . Your controller is plastic box not thge orginal metal small electrical box and tghe motor is thge orginal old blue ones. What diameter is the wheel head 14 or 12 inch???>? My guess is this is model C. That motor can be repaired at an motor electric shop if ever needed. If the potentiometer goes out you an make ones as seen in that pinned thread at top of page and its a maybe as this foot pedal has less space than modern brent pedals .If the motor says 1 hp its model CXC but the head. needs to be 14 inch-they made model C with 14 inch heads as well-see my orginal brochure I posted in the Brent section One last note is that plastic splash pan fitting under a flange or just floating free as that plastic splash pan came in a few years later witgh a flange- My guess is still a model C-The biggest issue will be the foot pedal down the road

I use a 1/2 inch drill attached 20 inch 5 gallon Jiffy mixer 90% on glazes are in 5 gallon buckets-one is ina 20 gallon container. I have a small jiffy mixer on a small cordless drill for 1-2 gallon buckets. No mess ever as buckets are the right size for the right jiffy mixers and the drills are all varibale speed I have 3 sizes of jiffy mixers -I also have a cordless drill with the baby jiffy mixer for a few small containers I use every glaze day as well I mix all my glazes with this set up on glaze day then put sticks of wood -one in each bucket a bit larger and longer than say a paint stick-these have 40-50 year of use on them and I wash them off and toss into a 5 gallon bucket at clean up time. I have used toilet brushes at a art center I demoed at-I prefer a wide stick myself as a toilet brush cannot work up hard stuff off bucket bottoms as well-once the glaze is power mixed than a toilet brush would be fine-many have metal in them and are going to rust so thats a concern I glaze large volumes of work so it has to work smoothly and efficient . I recall a old post on this where I had some photos of all this as well as my homemade brushes from animal hairs

Talc bodies have had issues for decades and really where used in low fire clay applications to some extent This is a common story for low fire folks for many decades As to cim-talc that manufacture mines a few different types and you can look them up. None of my bodies use talc and the only talc I ever use (have 4 kinds) is for a few high fire glazes in my mix of 15 glazes I use. When I speak of talc its for glazes not clay bodies

I use magma to float glazes-it does not stink or go bad like CMC gums do. I have used gums a bit until I found Magma abiout 20 years ago. I adjust specific gravity of glaze than add the magma. I use it in high fire glaze so brushing is not what I do much of-usually dipping or pouring. The glaze may appear thicker but its the right specific gravity so it fires our fine. I only use it in a few glazes that settle like bricks. I apply that glaze the same as all others and do not try to overthink it, In this old post I explain how to prepare and store it one other note-Mins use of the syringe is faster is a understatement-I bought two 100m syringes and use them every week-wow a real time saver-Thanks Min for that tip

You learn from your mistakes sometimes they work sometimes they do not.

Another Magma vote -it cures all settling issues with a very small amount needed.It can float a brick

A cheap digital pyrometer is all you need-60$-the pyrometer probe needs to be better quaility-drill and install it in side of kiln in middle If you need new elements get all of them not just 1/2 of them-you will need to ohm test them 1st rebisquing will not hurt the pots

I suggest resetting your cone sitter with a guide to get that right-especially as this is your only point to tell whats going on temp wise.To tune it you will need a few guide cones as well to see if its working well. Neil posted a link recently on sitter issues. Pretty good chance the ware will not need rebisqueing if they got hot enough-you can tell by the ring

No and cones no pyrometer is firing blind. You can tell by color if you are trained in looking in on that . I'm with Bill turn it off repair and get cones and a pyrometer . You would never drive a car blind right gas cost to much and what else may happen?

What you have is an orginal model C with the old foot pedal style (long gone) I bought one of thes e in 1970 myself-that very same wheel. The motor need to go to a electric motor shop (there is one in most towns) for bearings and brushes (do not try this yourself as its a pro job) take the foot pedal in and control box with all wires are together and show them the issue live. They will put in new bearins and brushes for less than a new motor and it should last most of your lifetime. When it gets home rental and see if the wheelhead bearing is noisy and if it is than thats a whole other repair as then you need a new wheelhead/bearing (its all in one unit) and a new large and small pull as that shaft will be 3/4 not 5/8th like what you have now. The new wheel head will have a splacsh pan flange on it as well so the Brent splash pans will now fit. I assume your model has no splash pan that fits well? Those model have a solid flat deck with brent colored formica tops (not plastic -unless your is a newer old one?) Hopefully the new quiet motor will be enough and you will not need a new head/wbearing Let us know how its going with the repair. My model like yours now has a different motor (back then Brent sent me an experimental motor( for free) with a 14 inch wheelhead and the modern flange with spash pan and a different footpedal and controller 3/4 inch pulleys . Ths decks are 1/4 inch plate steel and extra heavy duty(they quit making them like this when they switched to plastic decks in the mid 70s) I have 5 brent wheels now all are old enough to only go in one direction.Same as me

Its fine to avoid a company from personal experience-I was just saying that Laguna is going to be hard to avoid as they supply so many other clay outlets The cimtalc is not a Laguna product its just another talc from another supplier that Laguna happens to buy from. I to have had issues myself with Laguna but have resolved most of them. As noted above Darvan will work fine as I used it in a slip business I once owned. Many products from overseas are not available here but most can be substituted and a few are available

(I refuse to buy anything from Laguna) (they said they might be able to order one or both of those kaolins with their quarterly chemical shipment from Laguna,) Many companys buy from Laguna Clay Well I guess thats not an option for you so on some other options I use tri-calcium phosphate aka synthetic bone ash in a few glaze recipes and with great results-I burned thru a 50 # bag in about 5 years but not for slips-it works great for snappy glaze colors I also use real bone ash from long ago as well-not sure if its still available . also if you click on the posters name you can see when they last visited site Marcia Selsor has not been here since June 7 so not surprized she has not responded although you can turn on email notifcations that you receive an Email-not sure if hers is turned on-you could send it thru her website maybe

Black clay=trouble with most glazes as well as potential body issues If it was easy everybody would be doing it

(everyone is using Texas talc/AMTalc for glazes )-not anymore This product is gone like many that come and go in ceramics, whether glazy has it in recipes is a moot point There are other talcs out there-I use sierra light in many applications but not all. In. ceramics it best to stock up on materials that you know you like and need I have enough texas talc to last my career as well as other materials that now are long gone. I have been thru at least 4 talcs that are no longer available in the past 50 years and that's just talc not to mention all the rest of the long gone materials.

Digital is the only way to go much faster and measures larger amounts-My triple beam has sit used for a decade now-unless i mix extra tiny amounts which is super rare .