Mark C.

ah the joys of electric kiln loading and unloading. As a potter for 50 years now I thank my lucky stars I made myself a car kiln in 78-an electric would have killed me by now. Nobody ever addresses this part of the electric kiln dilemma much-lower back issues

I think its a all around bad idea. You do not eat off the stone. Why would you put food on that sealer. You can as Min said have it tested but why bother its not a food sealer. Good money after bad in my mind-let us know what the results are when the lab report comes back.

Wet electronics are no good so some mild dry heat is needed. Thats an electronic contoller on the side. You could pull the cover off the electronics and spray with electronic cleaner (spray made for this). I do that when I have wet underwater electronics that get wet diving. Some oil on the rusting steel would also help. Dry the bricks well before firing. the top is open to rain on the electrical side so get into that and take a look.

Since you are down under you should see what the grit situtaion is from suppliers as well as cone 6 clays. Babs is a down under potter on this site as well so she will have a handle on some of this. Your materials are not same to some degree as ours. Frits may be the case as well. Check that out.

I am a cone 10 lifetime potter. The cone 6 is a bit less in gas true but fluxing issues and materials to do that also play into costs as they cost more. I personally feel its easier glaze wise to fire cone ten. The choice of clays is larger as well and the clay costs a tad less. But i'm not a cone 6 potter. Many here are electric cone 6 potters and if its an electric kiln cone 6 makes more sense.

It’s a bad idea to overfire bisque ware

Call Peter plugger for trouble shooting

I’m on the other side of the world now for awhile but your very close with only one cone apart. Do as Neil says raise the bag wall to move heat up and fire slower especially at end of fire.

I bought a Brent model C in 1970 from Robert Brent in Santa Monica cost was 270$-I was in my last year of high school. I moved north to Junior collage in early 71 and had no kiln. In -late 73 I bought a used Skutt kiln from a student while going to Humboldt State collage-also bought our property that year in May-kiln came later in year-it was cheap . The electric service was to small for that kiln and I blew fuses all the time (two 60 amp fuze service. Now the place is 200 amps service with three large sub panels .Man I have been at this a long time.

I have found a few tricks and there are many more with spouts. One is to have plenty of holes in main body so fluid can flow well. The other is a sharper edge at pour lip. I cut mine with a metal edge and try to keep it sharp (not sponging to be round) the other is the spout at cone 10 unwinds or spins a bit so you must attach it crooked a bit and plan on the unwind to get straight again. I have this drawn on my wall-the right amount of cut to spin straight. The teapot is our most advanced form and the making of one takes the most time. All the eleemnts must come together. Your english style with clay handel is a classic shape. As your noted the spout must be high so it can be full and not leak out. One trick I learned in the 70s was to put just a small film of butter under spout lip as this makes the water resit dripping back down.I'm taking the smallest amount (non visible ) If that sharp edge has very little glaze on it this also helps with a no drip. welcome to the teapot challenge world-its not for the weak of heart

I will use my Business as an example. I never listed it with google but if you type in Liscom Hill Pottery in google up pops about 5-6 solid pages of hits about myself or pottery or what I have done in the past with shops and shows and the like. On the right hand side of the 1st page is a sidebar about my location and some reviews . In that sidebar one is called (suggestions or do you own this business) and thats where you can make some edits on what type of busines it is and hours if you like ( I do not want customers coming here so I did that edit to discourage folks) I have some reviews as well and there is a place you can edit that as well Since I have been here in this location for 50 years this coming May google found out about me somehow as its common knowledge in these parts -and some customers (which came to buy pottery via a phone call to come over wrote reviews thinking this would help me ) I do not have many folks here anymore for sales in the past decade as I really do not want to have the public here anymore. I still get calls wanting clay materials or pots as folks never read much anymore and just call thinking I'm a store. I did have had 19 straight years of two studio sales a year at this location but stopped in 1992 before the google world took over. I sent out 1,000 postcards on a mailing list and before that I had a bulk mail permit for a single page mailer when that was cheaper . I stopped taking customers info in the 90s as I do not need to business wise.

What Min says is very true-I like that curve as well Not a flat bottom bowl fan myself

Since its an inside form and dries away from form-I would go with pure mold lube from axner-its not oil based and its easy . I use it on a curved plastic tray sushi form and add a round thrown foot. You could also use plastic wrap in lower part so oil is not ever put on that part of clay. The oil is an issue so do not use it at attcahment spot

Is the texture on the inside or outside? hopefully on the inside It needs a foot-thow and attach one

For mos forms I use laguna/Axner Pure lube-I bought a gallon about 20 years ago and will last another 20 https://www.axner.com/pure-lube.aspx if this does not work I switch to veg-oil spray

I use spray veg oil-as cheap as I can find it.If its an slump mold then the clay needs to comne off very soon as to cracking if its a hump it dries away . I make lots of fish from glass this way-most are hump and i tremove them as soon as I can.

I sent you a pm on how to edit some of the goggle info as I did

Since google got me I had to change my listing (I never made a listing it just happened and then a few reviews popped up from customers) to manufacturing to cut back the calls on wanting to buy stuff (like clay, glaze ,etc) . I still get calls every other week as we only have one supplier in this whole area but its from folks who do not read the whole listing.-They seem to be in thier cars on cell phone a lot. For me its just a pain in the a--.

Welcome to the forum Welcome to the new world anything goes with people thses days All I can say is double down on the word NO You cannot please everyone all the time just learn the new normal is NO for ridiculous requests

One burner kilns will always have cold and hot spots-the trick is find glazes and clay that can work in those areas.

Those soldner mixer motors are beasts but are very costly to replace so treat it well. Hopefully you have a strong back as they are hard to unload-consider putting it up higher on a platform-less bending I have been around them enough to now dislike them as an older potter.

one burner kilns are problematic Go back to what worked best and maybe leave that issue space blank with no wares

Call them as they still make these and they can tell you what to do.