Mark C.

I use magma to float glazes-it does not stink or go bad like CMC gums do. I have used gums a bit until I found Magma abiout 20 years ago. I adjust specific gravity of glaze than add the magma. I use it in high fire glaze so brushing is not what I do much of-usually dipping or pouring. The glaze may appear thicker but its the right specific gravity so it fires our fine. I only use it in a few glazes that settle like bricks. I apply that glaze the same as all others and do not try to overthink it, In this old post I explain how to prepare and store it one other note-Mins use of the syringe is faster is a understatement-I bought two 100m syringes and use them every week-wow a real time saver-Thanks Min for that tip

You learn from your mistakes sometimes they work sometimes they do not.

Another Magma vote -it cures all settling issues with a very small amount needed.It can float a brick

A cheap digital pyrometer is all you need-60$-the pyrometer probe needs to be better quaility-drill and install it in side of kiln in middle If you need new elements get all of them not just 1/2 of them-you will need to ohm test them 1st rebisquing will not hurt the pots

I suggest resetting your cone sitter with a guide to get that right-especially as this is your only point to tell whats going on temp wise.To tune it you will need a few guide cones as well to see if its working well. Neil posted a link recently on sitter issues. Pretty good chance the ware will not need rebisqueing if they got hot enough-you can tell by the ring

No and cones no pyrometer is firing blind. You can tell by color if you are trained in looking in on that . I'm with Bill turn it off repair and get cones and a pyrometer . You would never drive a car blind right gas cost to much and what else may happen?

What you have is an orginal model C with the old foot pedal style (long gone) I bought one of thes e in 1970 myself-that very same wheel. The motor need to go to a electric motor shop (there is one in most towns) for bearings and brushes (do not try this yourself as its a pro job) take the foot pedal in and control box with all wires are together and show them the issue live. They will put in new bearins and brushes for less than a new motor and it should last most of your lifetime. When it gets home rental and see if the wheelhead bearing is noisy and if it is than thats a whole other repair as then you need a new wheelhead/bearing (its all in one unit) and a new large and small pull as that shaft will be 3/4 not 5/8th like what you have now. The new wheel head will have a splacsh pan flange on it as well so the Brent splash pans will now fit. I assume your model has no splash pan that fits well? Those model have a solid flat deck with brent colored formica tops (not plastic -unless your is a newer old one?) Hopefully the new quiet motor will be enough and you will not need a new head/wbearing Let us know how its going with the repair. My model like yours now has a different motor (back then Brent sent me an experimental motor( for free) with a 14 inch wheelhead and the modern flange with spash pan and a different footpedal and controller 3/4 inch pulleys . Ths decks are 1/4 inch plate steel and extra heavy duty(they quit making them like this when they switched to plastic decks in the mid 70s) I have 5 brent wheels now all are old enough to only go in one direction.Same as me

Its fine to avoid a company from personal experience-I was just saying that Laguna is going to be hard to avoid as they supply so many other clay outlets The cimtalc is not a Laguna product its just another talc from another supplier that Laguna happens to buy from. I to have had issues myself with Laguna but have resolved most of them. As noted above Darvan will work fine as I used it in a slip business I once owned. Many products from overseas are not available here but most can be substituted and a few are available

(I refuse to buy anything from Laguna) (they said they might be able to order one or both of those kaolins with their quarterly chemical shipment from Laguna,) Many companys buy from Laguna Clay Well I guess thats not an option for you so on some other options I use tri-calcium phosphate aka synthetic bone ash in a few glaze recipes and with great results-I burned thru a 50 # bag in about 5 years but not for slips-it works great for snappy glaze colors I also use real bone ash from long ago as well-not sure if its still available . also if you click on the posters name you can see when they last visited site Marcia Selsor has not been here since June 7 so not surprized she has not responded although you can turn on email notifcations that you receive an Email-not sure if hers is turned on-you could send it thru her website maybe

Black clay=trouble with most glazes as well as potential body issues If it was easy everybody would be doing it

(everyone is using Texas talc/AMTalc for glazes )-not anymore This product is gone like many that come and go in ceramics, whether glazy has it in recipes is a moot point There are other talcs out there-I use sierra light in many applications but not all. In. ceramics it best to stock up on materials that you know you like and need I have enough texas talc to last my career as well as other materials that now are long gone. I have been thru at least 4 talcs that are no longer available in the past 50 years and that's just talc not to mention all the rest of the long gone materials.

Digital is the only way to go much faster and measures larger amounts-My triple beam has sit used for a decade now-unless i mix extra tiny amounts which is super rare .

You can change out the outlet but also need to most likely change the breaker to 30 amps to protect the wires on the kiln (you need 25% over amps for safety) since its 21 amps it needs a 30 amp breaker (leave the kiln plug alone) change the breaker and outlet to match the 30 amps. Or hire an electrician to do the work

I rarely use steel trimming tools at all . My go to is carbide made special bison tool. -very close to a kemper R2 6 inch ribbon tool. Its a double ender oval on one side square on the other. Its in my. hand or in a plastic tube on the wall when not in hand as the break easy. Only broke one in last 25 years. . I have 3 so about every 5-8 years I send it in for new ends. Its made by bison tools-not for everybody for sure but a must for prodution work like mine. I use to buy 6 inch ribben tools by the gross. sure I made ones from metal banding etc. one carbide outlasts 2oo steel tools with porcealin trimming .I'm a believer in not wasting as well. Home made tools are great I will add-I like a beach found stick to cut a foot with.

Well my local markets are keeping me busy (to busy really) and out of state shows or any show out of my county makes no sense anymore. Also I'm getting up in years and am getting tired of the driving as well. In two weeks will be my last Anacortes art show. I have been doing this one since early 90s so its been a long haul. Its my best show by far but money is not everything.I love doing the show as its easy for me setup wise and take down-double booth at main intersection in the middle of street and show. No hassles . Great customers really my favorites and to top it off I get to dive puget sound taking under water photos after the show for days.. I do need help to do this show as it averages for 3 days about 750 customers. My diver friend is also ready to give it up. I'll miss the show but I will get back my early summer for more non ceramic working-like fishing and diving . I have been in high production for some time now so as to do the show very well. Looking forward to it but at the same time its the last time. Going to stop and visit a studio from another potter on this board in Portland on my 11 hour hour first drive day to Olympia Wa. Day two is only a 1/2 day drive and ferry ride. I have done art shows for well over 4 deacades now and they are coming to an end.

Mine where always loose -that was years ago-you can use frog putty to hold them. I made ikebana pots.decades ago. I may still have a box of frogs.

long form details -the more the better especially for a fix

Coyotes are a wary bunch. You never know what they are up to. They Hunt in packs to be careful.

This white I have used for about 45-50 years now. -its a great liner that loves heat does not run-it can go outside as well-you could add colorants -test first I put it inside about 30% of my drinking wares Honey white -cone 10 or hotter Extremely dependable -no flaws Kentucky Ball clay-450 Grestly Borate -722 Dolomite-920 Talc882 silica 325 mesh -1198 Custar feldspar-2570

Clay is cheap and making your own is big work. Yes it can be done but its not worth it in most cases.

fuze check as well

We all start out as eggs

I do not like the flat tops (the top of kiln is flat) the arch is the way to go for sure. The car design is a solid one on that -I should have spelled that out clearer. Use thick angle iron for the uprights and a for arch support . The car design has worked well for 45 years for me. The side burners and back walls as well.. You just need to tweek the design a bit to improve it. And it does need some improvements as Neil pointed out

I have built two of them. My current one (35 cubic stacking) 3 12x24 shelves on car-about 5 feet high I have seen a bunch as well. The best and most are made from a basic plan called the Minnisota flat top-which the plans are in an old studio potter and a few kiln books.If I recall Nils Lou designed them I have a sprung arch not flat top. People alter this plan a bunch but all seem to keep the floor and car design which is tapered plug shop car. I like 4 burners two on a side with bag walls so I have made two that way. I do not like power burners so I use natural draft burners as well. I have a friend with a 27 cubic Geil and thats about as small as you would want to make one as they are made for easy of loading and smaller is better to have front loader

I also agree with soft clay. I also have a hot dip waxer for my hands if needed.