Mark C.

I have alot of brushless cordless tools now-the drill and impact drivers are great-lots of power.

I did a demo workshop on about 8 of the wispers-they are quiet and thats all they are -they can be slowed down easy with a medium amount of clay and the splash pans are cheesy and will break over time. The cords are to light duty as well. Thats my take-oh ya they do not have good fast service/parts like Brands made in this country a pancake motor is like Naan bread only made on a charcoal fire a low heat-when done its a low torque flavor that is really quiet and small

When those bubbles wear thru that means glass (glaze) came out into fluids most likely witha spoon stirring for example.Not a good situtaion for anyone. If the glaze is to thick toss it as its unsafe for use. In ceramics we all make mistakes and try to learn from them.It takes a whole lifetime of ceramic mistakes and then in the next life you get to make more-its the learning from them that makes us better potters

I would stack larger taller forms and not as tight in that cold spot to allow more circulation in that spot-also maybe a flame diversion that forces the flame that direction.

I'm with oldlady coffee in the pinholes is my vote

I was going thru downsizing old Ceramics Monthly's yesterday -the 60s and 70,s issues-kept a few 70s glaze recipes rest hit the recycle bin I found this ad in the October 1970 issue-My Model C is that wheel assembled it was $265-splash pan was galvanized sheet steel. The thing to note was the flat formica decks and the foot pedal those are the two features that they changed fairly quickly in early 70s. The other features that changed soon afterwards where 3/4 shafts on all wheels (these where 5/8 inch) and motors that had easy change brushes on the outside of motor. This ad also notes the location in Santa Monica that I bought my wheel from Brent himself-which was 1970. Brent moved shortly afterwards to Healdsburg Ca.. I met recently a woman who's husband worked there back in the mid 70s. Small world

VPM-20SS Three year old VPM-20 Stainless Steel, in excellent condition with newly installed pressure gauge, comes with a stand and a few extra accessories. For more information please contact Jim at 707-489-0093 or jim@mcn.org $4,900.00 $700 discount if picked up before April 15, 2022

You really need to check all the ceramic sites via the web all the time incuding all the facebook ones. Thats how I found mine on the Potters Web website. Somewhere we had a thread on all these sites. Even the school/state /federal auction sites sell them now and then

45 years ago I trimmed every pot bottom As a production potter I still trim most forms with feet (I think a foot adds to the form) and glaze the bottoms if the foot is tall enough. Nowdays I do not glaze many flat form bottoms like pie plates and chip and dip dishes . I still trim a foot and glaze the bottoms of dinnerware /platters I use a tool to add a drip line and undercut to mugs (no trimmers) and sponge holders and spoon rests Most of my smalls are no trimmers these days-you learn to add the undercut and drop edge to the thrown form when throwing-these include mugs -all sizes and spoonrests and sponge holders. I do trim salt cellars and honey pots I trim all other medium and large pots. so most of my 30-35 forms get trimmed except for the smalls All bowls are trimmed as well-no matter the size.Most forms take longer to trim than throw

I use this in my synthetic iron glaze (Do you have a good source for tricalcium phosphate? It's very expensive where I live.) I buy it in 50# bags and the price is always very high Great stuff in a glaze subsitute for bone ash-my guess it better on the plaster surfaces as well.

Odd man out here I have a MAC and just email the images to myself and in that process you get to choose -small-meduim -large

Does it count if some folks are visting my studio in a few days?

So what fixed the issue-just the regulator or something else ??

Is the flue surface made from fiber or fiber board where it exits the top of kiln as bricks will abraid that surface. I think fiber board is the best option for damper material if thats the case. Remember fiber has fibers which you shouldm not breath when moving it around

The back wall is a false wall with a long slots going up. You will need a damper-ether brick or kiln shelve or fiber board. Bricks are the hardest to use for control looks like you close the hole with those fiber scraps when done with fire?

No never on its side-big no no. Treat it like its super fragile as it is. The bricks get injured easily -cafefull handling it near the elements groves as they break out easy as the bricks are thin there. Put it on foam sheet or some padded moving blankets and tie it into a trck bed-keep it stable -you can take the lid off and treat it very carefully with padding.Tie it down take the base off and the lid. DO NOT Carry it on its side or travel on side-back seat is better

I forgot to mention my shop vacuum system -its a house vacuum mounted outside with a dust deputy (gets the solids into a small drum) and then into a whole house vacuum canister with a hepa bag then inside is a 2 inch hose like a shop vac that plugs into a fitting near sink. The dust and noise is all outside. Its a great tool. It ate thru motors until I wired a new style motor which is new and I'm testing. I buy the motors thru Amazon with a warranty so I can replace for low cost.. The new style blows the fine dust out the sides not thru the motor-we shall see how long the brushes last-as the fines kill them fast. Never had one make it past 6 months.

I have a high tech delta air handler with small micron filters , but only use it when making glaze. I do have a small squirrel cage that I use every few years if I forget to heat the shop before going to in winter .It blows heat down in throwing room from ceiling. The gas heater has no fan . The shop has two roofs and is insulated so it cool in summer and with a gas heater warm in winter. If I need to let heat in or out the shop has two door and we leave them open when needed -like loading kilns. I like the open door as it into a kiln covered area so spring and fall its open. In the winter with heater on and off the layers vary in shop as to the drying levels and needs. I use the heater for the cycle of pots more than my own comfort.When I need them dry its 90 inside and we work in that when its no rush its 70 T short weather is my favorite temp for winter shop-summewr as cool as I can get it. If iot gets any hotter here near the coast I will install a small Mr cool like the two in house already.(they heat and cool) Closed at night. In warm summers doors are closed to keep it cool. No fan.

I agree with Bill its downdraft after looking closely (I miseds that)-I do not see a damper as the top exit looks like fiber lined. Use a mirror to look down or up the flue.

your 37 Mbar restictor equals about 15 inchs of water which for me is 1/2 pound of pressure which seem pretty low -that said those burners look small. I'm not a propane potter -I'm a natural gas potter-I fire with 1/4 pound pressure which is 7 inches on a water column . A pound of pressure is 28 inches In terms of orfice size most burners unscrew -I would try that 1st-the burner closed in photo has a screw holding it it looks like As an alternate way You may with a chop stick and a piece of tape tape a letter drill bit taped to the stick and drop that down thru kiln floor thru orfice to find the size (letter drills are sized exactly) In the UK you may have some other system of measurement ??I know you do. I think the regulator may be to restrictive-you should check that out. Hopefully someone here will chine in with propane pressures on kilns I see your hood has fiber glued to it which will add lots of life to that metal The other item is the flame looks like it can just go upo the side and out the flue not going thru the load-how is the kiln stacked in top 1/2?

Looks good to me except do not use any premade kiln wash if that comes with as its cheap and will flake off and you need to make your own. Looks in great shape and with teh pists and shelves is a good deal-pick it up soon before its gone

Thats a manual kiln that uses 24 amp and needs a #30 amp breaker. Its not computerized and has a kiln sitter withg safety shut off timer what are your plansd low fire (cone 06) or cone 6? its a smaller kiln and new cost about $1700 its an older model its very clean looking and if there is any shelves and posts that come with that would be good since its from 1991 I would offer 500$ what are they asking?

Yes what size are the orfices now? natural gas has larger orfices -LPG should have considerable smaller orfice holes. I get that its been convered but all 4 burners in one spot is a bit strange-We need to see the inside with door open as well. You never mentioned anything about a damper-does it have one on top (I'm assuming its a updraft?) The only downside with the hood so close is it will rust out sooner if it gets super hot and you could always have a stainless one made like i did as they never rust-make sure to cover your chimney cap when not in use for rain. In terms of to small a hood that whole shed is just for this small kiln and your shed has a wall of windows on one side and one opens so ventaliation is looking great to me as long as you do not sit in there all closed up firing So the issues can be orfice size burners to small-burner placement (all in one spot) The stacking load of wares and bag walls draft -layout inside to let gas flow thru load damper issue-size of exit flue explain in detail these issues as best you can to help us Photos inside are a must

Pres pull the bottom plate off that foot pedal and use a hair dryer on low on the potentiometer then let it sit I have 5-6 Brent wheels and one from the 70s needed a new curcuit board last year and a new power switch this year-that wheel is a model C and has run the longest here.