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Ben10

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  1. Hey actually I was not aware of this, someone just told me a week ago. I usually clean them softly with a slightly wet sponge. I sometimes had little dots on my porcelain, where the glaze was missing, this might be the reason for this.
  2. Hey HynPatty, thank you for the tips, will keep them in mind! Some bone china came out of the kiln this week, it seemed good, but the glaze dropped to the bottom of the cup and then it broke, because it could not shrink in the kiln. I am only doing bone china time to time, but since a year. Sometimes it worked out fine, when I did a normal first fire and then a normal second fire with transparent glaze. There are also some questions about the ingredients like which Kaolin (I think there are a few different options), but I will make a research later, since I probably won't have a studio to work in the next 6 month. Your website is btw really impressive
  3. Hi williib thank you for sharing though probably because of a lack of my English skills I did not really understand, what you mean. Can you explain it more? I am working with bone china again. I heard that people probably use special glazes for bone china which usually contain bone ash. Does anyone has experience with that? Is it necessary?
  4. Thank you so much for the link! Was hesitating buying it, because I dont have the money lately, but now it is sold out. So maybe it should not happen. For the Ebay offer, I am not really sure if it is the right one. It should be Ca3 (PO4)2 but it shows Ca5(OH)(PO4)3 when I google calcium phosphate tribasic. Yes, for now it is to much work, starting with a new material, finding recipes and I even would not know if I would be happy with the result. The synthetic bone ash I would buy more as an experiment, but for long term I would have to find a cheaper supplier.
  5. No unfortunately so far I found nothing really, only in China, Australia or America. I googled and asked around. I am looking for a supplier in Europa, because they might deliver it fast. It seemes rather cheap in the most offers like 1.50€ for one kilo, but 60€ to ship :/. Here are some examples https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Manufacturer-sell-low-price-calcined-bone_62027820120.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.20aad539KyHOjp https://shop.walkerceramics.com.au/BA160.500/Bone-Ash-_dash_-Synthetic/pd.php https://www.baileypottery.com/c-030-004.html https://highwaterclays.com/products/synthetic-bone-ash
  6. Thanks using similar recipe for casting slip: Kaolin 30% Bone Ash 45% Feldspar 22,8% Quarts 2,2% Dispex 0,3% Also tried with bentonite instead of dispex but it did not get it loose of the plaster. It is interesting, that she says, that she prefers the chemical consistency of synthetic bone ash. The one who gave me recipe told me, some time it was better with bentonite and now with dispex, because the bone ash changed. Will keep you updated!
  7. Cool thanks!! Sounds interesting. I will see if I will find something like this and where I can buy it!! I am really happy about the Info, lets see if I will manage. Did not really understand the difference between Triphosphate and Hydroxyapatite, but hopefully I will find out, when I search for it. Never heard of it. It is new to me that the clay is that transparent and white. The supplies in Estonia can be quite limiting sometimes. But will stick with bone, since a little brownish accent is already annoying me and it will take some time to change everything. So the first nonfunctional tests with normal firing cycle came out really good!! A beautiful white color, looks like hard porcelain It seems extremely durable, like a stone. So the next step is to make it vegetarian.
  8. Yes brushing with more thick glaze on a heated up porcelain might be an idea. I will try it all, because I have a lot of high fired bisque bone china already. No I am looking for the snow white color on thin detailed porcelain. In my workshop I can fire at a maximum around 1260, so hard porcelain is not possible. I am not a big fan of slightly brownish porcelain. I heard there is new bone china where they use something else then bone ash which I would prefer, to not use animal bones. But I did not find a recipe yet. Yes probably thats it, they go for the transparent. Bone china is deforming more in general, also glaze increases deforming. So they first fire high with setters.
  9. Thank you for the quite detailed info Peter!! Warming them up I tried already, but only with a hairdryer. Spray painting I did not try so far. Making the glaze thicker is also a good hint. Yes I dont use setters, I heard that ceramics with glaze on tend to deform more then without also. Still I will probably try and continue with the normal way. For my current project it is also not very important that it does not deform. It is weird that it is written everywhere like a rule, that you have to fire higher first.
  10. Hey first post in this forum I try to use bone china since a month. They say everywhere, that I should high fire first. But of course if I do this the glaze does not stick afterwards. Is there any trick? Why should it be high fired first in general? Sadly, I do not find a lot of information about bone china. So far I only found one page websites. Does someone has a good website about bone china? Greetings from Estonia
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