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Found 21 results

  1. So I stumbled upon this tiny kiln for free and I couldn't pass it up. It's proven to be a mysterious little thing. Disclaimer: I have zero hands on kiln experience and have only had my pots fired for me in a community kiln, but doing a lot of reading in hopes of eventually having my own. This little kiln is from sno industries and the internet doesn't seem to think it ever existed. The company Sno Industries is now out of business. I've found some other sno kilns floating around the web but nothing that looks remotely anything like this one, and the model and serial number yielded no results. I contacted a couple kiln manufacturers hoping one had bought it out, and no one knows anything. Contacted The Ceramic Store that sells elements for Sno kilns (not my model though), but they said they have no info on them and sent me to where they got the elements, Euclid. I'm now waiting on any leads from euclid. It's labeled model PMK serial # 1182 Volts: 120 amps: 12 It has a light that lights up when plugged in and dial that has high medium low. I don't see a kiln sitter or any other way to tell the temperature or control it besides the dial. There's a hole in one side that I think may be where a kiln sitter would be fed into maybe? Or maybe it's just a peep hole? I have scoured the internet and emailed many manufacturers trying to get any kind of info on this little thing. I would really love to try to get it working as a little kiln for me to play around with but I don't know where to start. I like that it can run safely on household current with standard outlets, but still scared to plug it in for long without more info. I plugged it in in my garage (120 v 20 amp breaker) to see if it would turn on and it did, and started to heat up. I have 04 05 06 cones to test it but didn't know where to begin. My tentative plan to get a feel for what it can do is Put the witness cones in and close top, leaving little peephole open, fire with dial on low for 3 hours, turn up to medium for 3 hours, turn dial to high for 2 hours. All the while constantly peeking in at my little witness cones to see whats going on. Is that a reasonable plan? Anyone have any advice for moving forward or wanna help me puzzle out what the heck to do with this funky little kiln? If my initial test shows it's functional and could reach those low fire temps I'd like to install a little kiln sitter and invest in a pyrometer. But for now I just want to figure out if it works at all. The previous owner told me it fires to 2300k and they slumped glass in it, but that's the only background info I have. I don't even know how they determined it fires to 2300k.
  2. Ok folks, this one is a weird one. My spouse scored a pottery wheel for $150, it needed work but for being sold as a Brent it was a heck of a deal. Once we got it home, I started digging into it and seeing what it needed. As best as I can tell, the wheel, motor and table is all from a Pacifica (the wheel is 13" diameter, the 4 belt drive system, orange table top with a particle board underside), and the controller and pedal are Brent (I can't make out a model). I ordered new belts and got everything cleaned up, but now that it is running, it seems to be spinning much slower than it should be. I'm don't really know how to start troubleshooting this, and I can't seem to find motor specs for older Pacificas on what voltage they want. Does anyone have any experience running different companies motors on Brent controllers? Thanks!
  3. I bought a Skutt Km 1227 off of a friend. It’s in great condition but I did a glow test this morning and only the top two and bottom two elements were glowing by the time it got up to 500. I opened up the electrical panel and everything seems to be connected fine and looks to be in good condition. Has anyone run into this before or know what the problem could be?
  4. Hello - new to this community but excited to learn and hopefully contribute. The time has come to pick up my own Kiln! im considering this cress fx23. I emailed the manufacturer and they confirmed that it was built in January 1991. the inside is in pretty solid condition and looks like it was only ever fired a few times. what do you think this kiln is worth? TY
  5. Hi, I would like to share my Kiln built and ask for some insights as my experience with Kiln were all in studios where others were operating it and I did not follow the whole firing cycle. I believe it is important to start saying that I was not sure if I should post it here or at "Equipment Use and Repair", please let me know. I will try to convert the metric information to imperial, but i may fail, apologies in advance. I decided to make a small kiln from K28 bricks (1530C / 2800F), the bricks are 65mm(2 1/2"). The bricks lay inside a metal drum, with a thin layer of ceramic insulation blanket, in order to reduce the gap between brick and metal, and try to add a bit more insulation; It is a Dihedral (new word on my vocabulary, twelve-sided polygon), and ~300mm (11 1/2"?) height, and ~300mm (11 1/2"?) "diameter", resulting in ~20L or 0.7ft3 From commercial Kiln, I found that 20L takes 2300W, threfore using an Europe power plug (230V and 13Amps): I used Kanthal A1 wire (1mm, AWG 18) aiming for 23Ohms, ie. ~12.5m (41ft).; I coiled the element around a 6mm (1/4"?), resulting in a Surface load of 5.89W/cm2 (38W/in2) -> I know this is high, but I struggled to find a thicker wire, I will replace that in the future; The element above, also resulted in a coil pitch ("stretch factor") of 4x when using 3x layers of element inside the Kiln, again on the extreme side, it will be fixed with a thicker wire; I also built the controller myself, which I can share if people are curious. With the introduction out of the way, I did a test fire on the kiln yesterday, aiming for Cone 05 1/2 -> 1015C or 1839F, as a test, since my local ceramic shop only had this cone in stock and I would like to validate against the thermocouple, type K, readings. The Kiln had a bottom shelf, raised 1/2" from the floor; the self supporting cone was placed in the middle. The ambient temperature was -4C (25F) After 10hrs , it was late and the Kiln was really struggling to raise the temperature more than 870C (1600F), the temperature was going up, but Very Slowly as seen on the graph below. Therefore I concluded that it would take few more hour to reach the final temperature (if it was able to do so). The firing schedule, not very relevant I guess, was: 120C -> 110C/hr | 250F -> 120F/hr 538C -> 250C/hr | 1000F -> 400F/hr 120C -> 167C/hr | 1659F -> 300F/hr 1015C -> 60C/hr | 1839F -> 108F/hr Finally, my questions are: Does someone have a 2300W Kiln and can share some experiences with the firing Cycle? Do you see any absurd flaw that would justify the behavior? Some pictures:
  6. Hello! I am a student and I was recently given the assignment of creating two items that are realistic together as a clay sculpture. I am planning to making is something with flowers but I am struggling to find a flower that is easier to do because this is my first time creating realistic flowers with clay. Is there any suggestions on which flowers I should use and what techniques or tools I should utilize? Thank you for your help.... ~Mochii
  7. I'm brand new to ceramics and throwing, and want to get a starter wheel. Wondering if anyone can tell me any models to keep an eye out for USED, or what a good option would be that's not too steep NEW. I can't find very much out there that speaks to the history of machines, or good machines to look out for used. I found a Creative Industries MP that powers up and spins, but doesn't have the pedal so it's at 1 speed. From what I've learned here, CI is no longer around, so getting a replacement pedal seems a near impossible feat. Is this machine still worth it even at 1-speed? Thanks for any info, and apologies for the noviceness Best, R
  8. I was sold what I thought was a cone 6 paragon kiln with a sentry 2.0 controller but after several firings realized it was only rated to cone 4. Now its of no use to me so I was hoping it would be possible to move the Sentry 2.0 digital controller over to my old cone 6 manual Cress kiln. The Cress is a 240v 20 amp kiln and the controller is coming off a 240volt 48 amp Paragon. Has anyone done something similar? I am unsure if it would be better to install a receptacle onto the controller and plug the kiln into that or wire the controller directly to the kiln. Are there any resources that might help me figure this out? Thanks' Jaalam Aiken
  9. I’ve recently discovered missing paint on the bottom of my mixer (see photo) so I can only assume that it is in my clay reclaim and potentially in my glaze. What do I do? Will it burn out of the clay? I mostly care about the glaze because I paid someone to make it for me and it was expensive. Should I put it through a sieve just in case? Is it totally ruined?
  10. bubbly.pdf Hello, hi ! I've been a bit lost and what seems to be a loop when looking to re-create this glaze somehow. I'm pretty fresh to pottery, and am willing to take any and all information to help me understand what creates this effect and if this piece is done by using two different types of glazes. For example a white over gray glaze with a higher levels of iron oxide? Thank you kindly
  11. Hi all! I have recently inhereted a kiln that needs some love. I'm a little unsure of how much or what type exactly. There is glaze on the heating elements in spots and some damage to fire brick. What would you recommend? Images of kiln
  12. Hello new wannabee potter here. I'm throwing the same thing over and over to try and get better at the basics but not sure what to do with all the clay that I use to practice. I'm keeping some pieces to see how they turn out after glazing and firing but I don't want to throw all this other clay. I know you can use plaster boards to dry it out and rewedge but I'm in a shared studio and there isn't space to leave plaster boards out for long periods of time. Any tips? Thanking you in advance!
  13. Hey everybody, I’m having trouble with my Shimpo. It was given to me by my college because it was sitting in a corner collecting dust. it runs, but it definitely needs new motor mounts and some work underneath. my main concern is that it isn’t running in the forward mode or counterclockwise, instead it’s running clockwise in reverse and forward. the parts number for the is tanac006232-rk2, but the part has been discontinued seeing as though the wheel was manfactured some time between the late 60s and mid 70s. Is there any way to resolve this issue through soldering, as a student in undergrad I don’t have the money for a new wheel, but I have two hands ready to get dirty. thank you for your time, Ry.
  14. Hello! I am just getting started on my own pottery studio. I recently bought my Duncan ES 1020 energy saver kiln and came it with nothing. I have been searching high and low for an owners manual and I can't find anything that says "ES" on it. So, is there any differences between the Duncan ES 1020 and the Duncan EA 1020? Could I use the Duncan EA 1020 manual? I'm new to doing this on my own so any advice at all would be greatly appreciated!
  15. Hello! I recently purchased some Laguna Speckled Buff (WC-403) and have been throwing some pieces on the wheel. I have been looking for a perfect honey brown/light tan speckled clay and finally came across this one. Anyway, I made and fired some pieces with a Cone 6 cone in the kiln sitter and everything turned out kind of burned (?) looking and darker than I was expecting. I fired some more pieces but this time put a Cone 5 bar in the kiln sitter and got almost the same result My glazes also aren't showing up as well. Does anyone have any ideas of why it is coming out like this or have any advice? Thanks a bunch!
  16. Hi, I am looking for some advise if possible. I fired my kiln last night but the kiln didn't reach full temperature. I looked at the cone I have in my cone stand and it is not melted. The cone in the sitter either melted or fell off and the kiln shut off. Can I re-fire? As I have not unloaded it, can I just turn it on? Thanks Mal
  17. Hi all- hope everyone is doing well wherever you are. I was interested in purchasing an overglaze luster (metallic/gold) to apply to my pottery, but realizing my studio doesn't have the capability to do a 'third firing' for my pieces (especially if it requires different heating instructions etc.). I believe the studio fires at cone 6. Is there an alternative to using overglaze luster that could get me a similar effect? Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks.
  18. Hi All, I am trying out barrel firing whilst in lockdown as I do not have access to a kiln. I'm having some problems. The first firing I used the following 60cm pit dug 3-4 inches on fine sawdust pots (some wrapped in foil, some not) Salt Seaweed Red Iron Oxide More sawdust Kindling, then smaller logs up to larger logs Paper to get the fire going. The fire burned for about 2 hours and I think put a lid on and sealed the edges. Next moring it was still quite hot when I took the lid off, so i left it to cool a while. The pots were mainly black, with some small amounts of colour (galaxy like). The Second firing, I completed in half a 55 gallon drum with a few holes from bottom to middle to create airflow. This time i used less sawdust. I also added dried bananas skins, lots more seaweed and used a little more salt, and wrapped copper wire around 1 pot. I only foil wrapped 1 pot too. I started the fire and about 1 hour after I added a little more wood as I could see the pots emerging, however they were not glowing red. As all of the wood had mainly burnt to a nice bed of embers i placed the lid on (no seal this time, some air and smoke did escape) The following morning I took the lid off and allowed it to cool a little. The pots are very contrasting . Please see the link to the images. Some colouring has worked wonderfully, however where the pots were lying in the sawdust, they are completely black. I admit it could be a cool affect, however not what i was trying to achieve. https://photos.app.goo.gl/hpoXPyVDNhnb4u2N6 Barrel Firing photos Can anyone help problem solve with me? My first thoughts are use wood shaving rather that sawdust,, maybe place a grate in the barrel so the pots are not in direct contact with the sawdust. other than that, i'm really not sure???
  19. Hello! I am in a bit of a predicament at the moment… My kiln is currently down because I’m waiting on a new thermocouple.. I have a business partner that needs a prototype ornament by Monday of next week (4 days). I am making the ornament out of white sculpture earthenware clay that fires to cone 06-04, the commercial glaze I have fires to 05. When talking to a friend he said to go ahead and glaze it once it was bone dry and single fire it. So, I went ahead and glazed my ornament after it was bone dry. I called the place that I get my supplies from to make sure I was firing my test kiln correctly, and he informed me that doing a single fire with the white earthenware was not something I should be doing... Is single fire okay for this ornament or should I scrap it? I know single fire isn’t uncommon, but I have never done it before. The test kiln is a Vulcan JK-1. I know these kilns fire much faster and cool down much faster than large kilns, so I am unsure how to fire it properly if I have a single fire piece in it.. Since my piece is single fire it needs a longer fire time, correct? How long should I fire for to get the best results?
  20. Cheers! I thank you very much if anyone can consult. I don't know why in the black or red ceramic paste (which I have high temperature), my faldespatico base enamels do not cover this clay. The enamels come out with bubbles.., although in white clay they work well for me. I understand that black clays contain ox iron and manganese..
  21. Hi all, I have recently purchased a Podmore wheel to find that the whole electrics system needs repairing! not ideal Everything else in the wheel seems in good condition and would be a shame to write the wheel off! My uncle fixes motorbikes and deals with electrics so had a look at it and got it working but then it stopped again. we figure that someone previously has done some soldering work on it and basically it needs a replacement electric system. I rang Potterycrafts who took over Podmore in 1982 and asked if it could be refurbished or if they sell the parts and they said I would need to find an electrician who wanted to fix it for me and the modern wheels are so different electrically wise that we cant even combine the two. The wheel is currently in swindon, Wiltshire. Any ideas of how to get it fixed or who to ask? i really dont want to scrap it
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