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Found 48 results

  1. Hello, I fired my first glaze kiln (electric) last night and it was finished around 6am this morning. Once the temperature started to go down after it got to temp I turned my kiln off and left everything shut. I have been coming down to check the temperature every so often and I have noticed a very faint crackling noise kind of like Velcro being taken apart or electrical crackling.. All of the glazes are supposed to be guaranteed to fit my clay body (I have friends that work at a distribution center making both clay and glaze). My clay is a buff stoneware that fires between cone 2-7 and I am using Amaco PC cone 5-6, I fired to cone 6. I know what the pinging sounds like when a kiln is opened too hot, but this isn’t a ping noise. I haven’t opened the kiln at all and have left the peep holes shut, could it be cooling too fast still? This is my first time firing a kiln on my own (with instruction from the clay friends). I’m afraid to see what my pieces look like when they’re finally cooled..
  2. Hi! I was running a cone 5 glaze with my skutt electric kiln and forgot to turn on my enviro vent. When I realized it was already finished and at 500F. I have the KMT so was able to see a graph of the firing which looked fine, but it did fire in 4 hrs instead of the regular 13hrs. What problems could this cause ??? Could this hurt my kiln for future firings? Vent is on now and another fan in the studio cause it definitely smells. Thanks!
  3. Hi, I am looking for some advise if possible. I fired my kiln last night but the kiln didn't reach full temperature. I looked at the cone I have in my cone stand and it is not melted. The cone in the sitter either melted or fell off and the kiln shut off. Can I re-fire? As I have not unloaded it, can I just turn it on? Thanks Mal
  4. have inherited a Gare Kiln Model # 1210 Serial # 10.7.84 hertz 60 volts 240 watts 3120 Amperes 13 inf phase single and I need your help pricing it. It’s better than used condition but not new. I would say used 5 times total and has the stand, all working parts, etc. I have someone wanting to buy it, but I can’t find any information online to compare too. Please help your girl out!
  5. Hello all. I recently started experimenting with mixing Mason stains in with my b-mix clay body. The green I tried came out beautifully, but the crimson when fired to cone 6 was left with no color. Any suggestions? I thought maybe I hadn't done a high enough percentage, but after doubling the amount it still was the same amount of colorless. I just did a small pebble of clay and left one side unglazed and covered the other with Mayco's zinc free clear and that didn't keep the color in either.
  6. I just bought a collection of ceramic pieces, green ware, bisque, partly painted or choked, from a former ceramic painting teacher. Most of the pieces are from the late 80's to early 2000's. I'm trying to find out how to fix some of these pieces, such as broken antlers or wings, legs or feet or arms or hands. Some of these pieces have been started painting or choked, some are green and some have been fired ready for painting or choking. How do I fix these pieces if I'm going to glaze them then fire them again? How do I fix the green ware so I can fire it? What is the best way to fix the pieces that I'm not going to refire?
  7. The kiln is giving me an E1 error. Can I fix this myself? How?
  8. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructor must have felt really bad for me, because as I was sticking the pieces back on the rack and deciding whether or not to trash them she came over and decided my stuff was special enough that we were going to try a risky operation, putting both pieces through both bisque firing and final firing despite them being glazed out of order. She says that the color won't be as consistent and you couldn't eat off of them (fine by me, because they're not dishes), but they should still stick together and come out okay. Before we try this, however, I wanted to take some initiative and research both the risks of this test and any alternatives. Despite my excellent googling skills, I haven't been able to find an article or forum topic specific enough to my situation, so I figured I'd start one myself. Any and all information you can give me will be useful. I just want to know what might happen if we try to fire this thing and/or if there are any other ways to save the work with less risk involved.
  9. Hello! I wasn't particularly sure which forum I should post this request, but I was wondering if anyone was able to help me out. I recently broke a decoration owned by my mother, one that she very much liked, and I was hoping someone would be able to help me identify it in order for me to buy another. She is not sure where she got it, but we are based in the UK. But we have a feeling it may be Scandinavian. I have searched around the web, and have failed in finding it available to buy. It may be only available in a store somewhere. Here is a link to a photo of it - https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Huxk-UUWiO7dBfw019ZMAcT-zXxyj_6_ Many thanks in advance. R
  10. Hello, I just came upon a medium size kiln. It was free, came with no manual or use instructions. I am a first time kiln user so I don't want to do anything without more information on this specific kiln. It is a very old Aim Ceramic Kiln with a sitter, Model K-10. Is there anyone out there who can give me some advice on this particular kiln? Thank you
  11. Hello I used a series of 4 glazes layered on a recent set of plates. Every single one of them has crawled, especially on one particular colour which I’m guessing is the thicker application when layered? My question is, can I reglaze and refire them, perhaps to a lower temperature? They’ve been fired to cone 7 (electric), and it’s a Valentine’s Delta stoneware. I’ve refired plates before and they’ve broken right down the centre. I’ve seen people on here say they’ve had success with refiring and wondering if there’s a recommended technique. Attached a couple of photos of the crawling. Hoping someone with more experience than I can provide a helpful suggestion. Other than telling me not to layer the glazes! Funnily enough I’ve used this glazing technique plenty of times on bowls without any problem. Thanks in advance.
  12. Hello, I have a figurative sculpture piece in a cone 5 white stoneware that I made poor Iron Oxide choice on. I put a fairly light Iron Oxide wash on over the entire thing as bisqueware, then fired it to cone 5. I'm O.K. ( or fatalistic) with about 90% of the surface, but the region of the head, which is a distinct area, is bothering me. There are some medals on the figures chest and i ran some super fine sandpaper over one and some of the oxide came up, the sanded area looks white. However that surface is closer to a burnished surface then the face is (I think) - so maybe the face absorbed more Iron Oxide? So I was thinking if I could sand off the face and... I don't know, some white glaze, or even try to underglaze and re-fire? My problems are a) I don't know how deeply Iron Oxide permeates a bisqueware piece, and b) I don't know when to stop messing with something. It may be I should just leave well enough alone. Just tried to put an image up but I'm not sure how to have a URL for an image, my carbonmade account isn't helping. Anyway, any sage advice would be appreciated .
  13. Hi, so I am new at this and asking for help. I had fired my clay, and painted it (with regular paint, ceramics friendly) and then put a glaze over top. The glaze said it could be used over paint and that it should be clear after firing. After firing the glazed pieces, it seems that the paint has been stripped off and the glaze never went clear. Did I do something wrong? My kiln is a cone 8, bought barely used. I followed the instructions on the side and the internet: Cook on low for 1 hr., medium for 2 hrs., and (after looking it up) another hour on low. Also, is there any way I can fix the pieces? They were gifts and took me a while to make them, but I know they're likely ruined. I appreciate any advice and help.
  14. Greetings good people please help me. I am an apprentice potter who's master works almost exclusively in porcelain and I've stained her plaster wedging table with a completely different clay body. I don't know it's name but it's a red clay, much stiffer, which fires to cone 11 where her porcelain is fired to cone 6. Is there a way to clean the pigment out of the plaster, and if I can't is there a risk it will contaminate her white clay in the future, will the pigment dredge up out of the plaster as she wedges? Part if me thinks it's harmless but I'm afraid I've ruined her table. When I've made reclaim in the past white crystals have formed on the surface as the plaster dries, will the red remove itself that way if I add water to the affected area? I really don't know what to do.
  15. Hello, All! I am looking for info on favorite and best clear glazes to use with slip decorations at cone 10, and favorites to use with underglaze at cone 6 on porcelain slip! any and all help is appreciated. I am in my senior year of my ceramics undergrad, so photos of results could be super beneficial because I am not 100% certain of the properties I desire as of just yet. Thank you in advance!
  16. Hi everyone. I have made the most ridiculous mistake (please don’t laugh!). As a Father’s Day present for my bf’s 1st Father’s Day I thought I’d take our little one to a ‘Paint your own pot’ place. Unfortunately, in a moment of insanity (or baby brain!) I incorrectly spelled ‘Father’s’ Is there any way this can be salvaged?? My little ones footprints on it are perfect and I don’t want to throw it away and start a fresh if I can help it. I’d even pay for someone to help salvage it for me if they could !! TIA
  17. Dipped a ton of student pottery into white dipping glaze when I thought it was clear dipping glaze. Any way of taking the white glaze out without harming their work underneath?
  18. Hello everyone! I bought a small top loader kiln that runs of mains (13amp) and I now need to change the elements. I need to know the model and make in order to get the right wattage/amperage elements. If anyone can tell from the photo below please gimme a shout! It has a dawson LT-3 sitter if that's helpful. Can get more photos if helpful! Thanks in advance
  19. I am a hobbyist and I throw at my universities ceramic studio. I have a really hard time drying things right. I go on Tuesdays and Thursdays at noon. If I throw something on Tuesday, I cant get it to dry properly by Thursday. If I put a plastic bag over it it is still far too wet to trim on Thursday and if I leave it completely bare it gets to bone dry. I cant figure out what to do differently. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  20. Hi, I'm a newbie and have a problem with my bartlett v6-cf I use for glas (vary fire). The kiln heat up just fine in the programmed steps but when it reaches max temp it won't hold the temp. The hold time is 20min but already after a few minuts the temp falls. After 20min the temp had dropped 40 C. I'm fairly sure the programming is right. Could it be a problem with the control unit or the kiln itself?
  21. I’ve just gotten up and running with my new-used Cress B23h kiln. I have ran two bisque loads to 06 and last night I got my first collection glazed. I loaded up my kiln with the glazed pieces to fire to come 6. It’s only a small load. I switched it on this morning and left on low for 2 hours and then bumped it up to medium. After about an hour or so the top pilot light went out and I don’t think the top elements are on. I’m wondering if the switch is the problem. When I noticed it was out, I turned the switch a little more and the light flashed on and then off again. Now it won’t turn on at all. The bottom seems to be working fine and the elements were getting red before I shut it down. A little back story if it is relavant- when I first go the kiln, I test fired it, empty, and the top infinite switch sparked inside the control cage. I immediately shut the kiln off and unplugged it. I took out the switch and it had obviously been sparking for a while before I got it. I was eager to get my kiln going and I didn’t have any luck finding a switch I could buy in person but I did luck out that the owner of the potter supply place had a used one he sold me. Got home, installed, and have fired 2 bisque loads without any problem. This time when it stopped, it hadn’t gotten even close to as hot as my bisque fires got. In my inexperienced opinion, I think it looks like it’s the switch that’s the problem? And not the elements? I have put a call into Cress and am waiting on a response from their technician. At the moment I am also trying to find a new switch to buy online because I think it would be a good thing to have, regardless. I am, however, having trouble finding this particular switch. Which is a inf-240-31b. It is on the Cress parts list so I am hoping I can still order it from them but I saw on Robertshaw that it is discontinued? Does anyone know of a place to get these switches? Have you experienced something similar? I am so excited to finish firing my first glazed pieces! So any insight you might have, I would greatly appreciate! You guys were great with my other question, so I thought I’d come back and try again Thanks!
  22. Hi everyone! I am am new to ceramics after moving to it from metal clay. Things are going well but there is one constant error. I have a small jewellery kiln and it fires to the correct temp and the ceramic and glaze is working fine APART from where the object touches the kiln shelf on a glaze fire. I make pendants and rings mostly and it is so upsetting to have the items ruined or stuck to the shelf!! I use low fire stoneware clay and low fire glazes. So my question is what do I fire my pieces on. I have seen metal kiln furniture, is that the way forward? I am hoping you can help me, if you need any more info from me let me know! Thank you! Emma xxx
  23. Hi everyone, I'm really hoping you can give me some advice on possibly what to expect from this event. Our kiln is electric and was set going yesterday for a bisque firing at 3pm after school finished, I came in this morning to find the kiln still on, hovering at 987*c, the target temperature on the electronic control was 1000*c before ramping down. I can only assume that its been stuck at almost the top temperature for around 8-9 hours. The main problem being that the only option I've had is just to switch the kiln off and let it cool down, and if it was just my work I wouldn't be so worried, however the kiln currently contains final exam pieces from our students so I am very worried, I am new to ceramics and learning every day but this is something I've never encountered. How will being held at so close to top temperature for such a long time affect it? Am I going to open the door to a kiln full of shards? Thanks for any help you can give.
  24. I am asking for suggestions for matte white underglazes or engobes. I would also consider making my own engobe out of my white stoneware clay body but I don't know how. I've never done that. I need it to be able to be painted on bisque ware under my Clear Bright from Laguna. I have tried: - Duncan Concepts white underglaze. It flares up and comes through the clear glaze. Yuck. That's not going to work. - Dune White engobe from Laguna. If applied too thickly it forms micro cracks along the edges. Since this is filling in carving .... I thought I would try Amaco's Velvet White but it says it is only food safe if I use it with their clear. I have extensively experimented with the Clear Bright and my clay bodies and I am not willing to change it. I have been making a series of highly decorated pie plates with carving and slip inlay. I paint wax on a leather-hard piece and then carve through to the clay, then paint it with white stoneware slip. The problem I am having is that the two most recent pieces I've made this way have been horribly pitted, tiny air bubbles formed when I painted on the slip and they did not show up until after it was fired. I thought I had them filled with the glaze but after glaze firing about 20 pits were still open, making a high-investment piece completely unusable. I want to try just carving it plain and painting on/wiping off an underglaze or engobe after it is bisque fired. This is not the item with the issues, this is another one that I made with the same technique.
  25. Hi, I'm wondering is anyone can offer any advise!! I loaded my kiln about 9pm last night, and after I switched it from low to medium to high, I went to bed like normal. Today around noon I went in to going unload my stuff from the night before and to my surprise my kiln was still running!!! I turned it off right away. After letting it cool a few hours I was able to peak in the top and my trees looked like this!! They are glazed exactly the same as the other tree in the other picture though. I am wondering if maybe my kiln didn't reach temp. it should have which is why it didn't shut off and these did not fire all the way? Or if they fired to much and they are burnt?? Can anyone help me??
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