Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'help'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest
    • Community Marketplace – Buy/Sell/Trade/Free

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 54 results

  1. Hey everybody, I’m having trouble with my Shimpo. It was given to me by my college because it was sitting in a corner collecting dust. it runs, but it definitely needs new motor mounts and some work underneath. my main concern is that it isn’t running in the forward mode or counterclockwise, instead it’s running clockwise in reverse and forward. the parts number for the is tanac006232-rk2, but the part has been discontinued seeing as though the wheel was manfactured some time between the late 60s and mid 70s. Is there any way to resolve this issue through soldering, as a student in undergrad I don’t have the money for a new wheel, but I have two hands ready to get dirty. thank you for your time, Ry.
  2. Hi All, I am trying out barrel firing whilst in lockdown as I do not have access to a kiln. I'm having some problems. The first firing I used the following 60cm pit dug 3-4 inches on fine sawdust pots (some wrapped in foil, some not) Salt Seaweed Red Iron Oxide More sawdust Kindling, then smaller logs up to larger logs Paper to get the fire going. The fire burned for about 2 hours and I think put a lid on and sealed the edges. Next moring it was still quite hot when I took the lid off, so i left it to cool a while. The pots were mainly black, with some small amounts of colour (galaxy like). The Second firing, I completed in half a 55 gallon drum with a few holes from bottom to middle to create airflow. This time i used less sawdust. I also added dried bananas skins, lots more seaweed and used a little more salt, and wrapped copper wire around 1 pot. I only foil wrapped 1 pot too. I started the fire and about 1 hour after I added a little more wood as I could see the pots emerging, however they were not glowing red. As all of the wood had mainly burnt to a nice bed of embers i placed the lid on (no seal this time, some air and smoke did escape) The following morning I took the lid off and allowed it to cool a little. The pots are very contrasting . Please see the link to the images. Some colouring has worked wonderfully, however where the pots were lying in the sawdust, they are completely black. I admit it could be a cool affect, however not what i was trying to achieve. https://photos.app.goo.gl/hpoXPyVDNhnb4u2N6 Barrel Firing photos Can anyone help problem solve with me? My first thoughts are use wood shaving rather that sawdust,, maybe place a grate in the barrel so the pots are not in direct contact with the sawdust. other than that, i'm really not sure???
  3. Hello! I am in a bit of a predicament at the moment… My kiln is currently down because I’m waiting on a new thermocouple.. I have a business partner that needs a prototype ornament by Monday of next week (4 days). I am making the ornament out of white sculpture earthenware clay that fires to cone 06-04, the commercial glaze I have fires to 05. When talking to a friend he said to go ahead and glaze it once it was bone dry and single fire it. So, I went ahead and glazed my ornament after it was bone dry. I called the place that I get my supplies from to make sure I was firing my test kiln correctly, and he informed me that doing a single fire with the white earthenware was not something I should be doing... Is single fire okay for this ornament or should I scrap it? I know single fire isn’t uncommon, but I have never done it before. The test kiln is a Vulcan JK-1. I know these kilns fire much faster and cool down much faster than large kilns, so I am unsure how to fire it properly if I have a single fire piece in it.. Since my piece is single fire it needs a longer fire time, correct? How long should I fire for to get the best results?
  4. Cheers! I thank you very much if anyone can consult. I don't know why in the black or red ceramic paste (which I have high temperature), my faldespatico base enamels do not cover this clay. The enamels come out with bubbles.., although in white clay they work well for me. I understand that black clays contain ox iron and manganese..
  5. Hi all. Am having trouble with pinholes. I am using some commercial glazes and one glaze I mixed up from a recipe I found online. I clean my pieces very well before I glaze. I allow to dry before glazing, and leave them covered until glazing. I believe maybe it could be my one glaze recipe, or perhaps it could be the firing. I rent a space and the owner does the firings. He will not let anyone else fire and he blames all defects on you or your pots. Any help is so much appreciated. I am attaching a photo of a bad example of a glaze with a pinhole I got this firing. I saw where I could add flux, or remove zinc or rutile? Here is my recipe for floating blue cone 6 I used: Neph Sy - 45.2 Gerstley Borate - 24.5 Silica - 18.9 EPK Kaolin - 5.7 Whiting - 3.8 Talc - 1.9 Bentonite - 2 Rutile Flour - 4 RIO - 2 Cobalt Carb - 1
  6. Hi there! I am wondering if someone could help me with converting this formula to use a different Feldspar. Possibly give me a good explanation as well.
  7. Hello, I fired my first glaze kiln (electric) last night and it was finished around 6am this morning. Once the temperature started to go down after it got to temp I turned my kiln off and left everything shut. I have been coming down to check the temperature every so often and I have noticed a very faint crackling noise kind of like Velcro being taken apart or electrical crackling.. All of the glazes are supposed to be guaranteed to fit my clay body (I have friends that work at a distribution center making both clay and glaze). My clay is a buff stoneware that fires between cone 2-7 and I am using Amaco PC cone 5-6, I fired to cone 6. I know what the pinging sounds like when a kiln is opened too hot, but this isn’t a ping noise. I haven’t opened the kiln at all and have left the peep holes shut, could it be cooling too fast still? This is my first time firing a kiln on my own (with instruction from the clay friends). I’m afraid to see what my pieces look like when they’re finally cooled..
  8. Hi! I was running a cone 5 glaze with my skutt electric kiln and forgot to turn on my enviro vent. When I realized it was already finished and at 500F. I have the KMT so was able to see a graph of the firing which looked fine, but it did fire in 4 hrs instead of the regular 13hrs. What problems could this cause ??? Could this hurt my kiln for future firings? Vent is on now and another fan in the studio cause it definitely smells. Thanks!
  9. Hi, I am looking for some advise if possible. I fired my kiln last night but the kiln didn't reach full temperature. I looked at the cone I have in my cone stand and it is not melted. The cone in the sitter either melted or fell off and the kiln shut off. Can I re-fire? As I have not unloaded it, can I just turn it on? Thanks Mal
  10. have inherited a Gare Kiln Model # 1210 Serial # 10.7.84 hertz 60 volts 240 watts 3120 Amperes 13 inf phase single and I need your help pricing it. It’s better than used condition but not new. I would say used 5 times total and has the stand, all working parts, etc. I have someone wanting to buy it, but I can’t find any information online to compare too. Please help your girl out!
  11. Hello all. I recently started experimenting with mixing Mason stains in with my b-mix clay body. The green I tried came out beautifully, but the crimson when fired to cone 6 was left with no color. Any suggestions? I thought maybe I hadn't done a high enough percentage, but after doubling the amount it still was the same amount of colorless. I just did a small pebble of clay and left one side unglazed and covered the other with Mayco's zinc free clear and that didn't keep the color in either.
  12. I just bought a collection of ceramic pieces, green ware, bisque, partly painted or choked, from a former ceramic painting teacher. Most of the pieces are from the late 80's to early 2000's. I'm trying to find out how to fix some of these pieces, such as broken antlers or wings, legs or feet or arms or hands. Some of these pieces have been started painting or choked, some are green and some have been fired ready for painting or choking. How do I fix these pieces if I'm going to glaze them then fire them again? How do I fix the green ware so I can fire it? What is the best way to fix the pieces that I'm not going to refire?
  13. The kiln is giving me an E1 error. Can I fix this myself? How?
  14. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructor must have felt really bad for me, because as I was sticking the pieces back on the rack and deciding whether or not to trash them she came over and decided my stuff was special enough that we were going to try a risky operation, putting both pieces through both bisque firing and final firing despite them being glazed out of order. She says that the color won't be as consistent and you couldn't eat off of them (fine by me, because they're not dishes), but they should still stick together and come out okay. Before we try this, however, I wanted to take some initiative and research both the risks of this test and any alternatives. Despite my excellent googling skills, I haven't been able to find an article or forum topic specific enough to my situation, so I figured I'd start one myself. Any and all information you can give me will be useful. I just want to know what might happen if we try to fire this thing and/or if there are any other ways to save the work with less risk involved.
  15. Hello! I wasn't particularly sure which forum I should post this request, but I was wondering if anyone was able to help me out. I recently broke a decoration owned by my mother, one that she very much liked, and I was hoping someone would be able to help me identify it in order for me to buy another. She is not sure where she got it, but we are based in the UK. But we have a feeling it may be Scandinavian. I have searched around the web, and have failed in finding it available to buy. It may be only available in a store somewhere. Here is a link to a photo of it - https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Huxk-UUWiO7dBfw019ZMAcT-zXxyj_6_ Many thanks in advance. R
  16. Hello, I just came upon a medium size kiln. It was free, came with no manual or use instructions. I am a first time kiln user so I don't want to do anything without more information on this specific kiln. It is a very old Aim Ceramic Kiln with a sitter, Model K-10. Is there anyone out there who can give me some advice on this particular kiln? Thank you
  17. Hello I used a series of 4 glazes layered on a recent set of plates. Every single one of them has crawled, especially on one particular colour which I’m guessing is the thicker application when layered? My question is, can I reglaze and refire them, perhaps to a lower temperature? They’ve been fired to cone 7 (electric), and it’s a Valentine’s Delta stoneware. I’ve refired plates before and they’ve broken right down the centre. I’ve seen people on here say they’ve had success with refiring and wondering if there’s a recommended technique. Attached a couple of photos of the crawling. Hoping someone with more experience than I can provide a helpful suggestion. Other than telling me not to layer the glazes! Funnily enough I’ve used this glazing technique plenty of times on bowls without any problem. Thanks in advance.
  18. Hello, I have a figurative sculpture piece in a cone 5 white stoneware that I made poor Iron Oxide choice on. I put a fairly light Iron Oxide wash on over the entire thing as bisqueware, then fired it to cone 5. I'm O.K. ( or fatalistic) with about 90% of the surface, but the region of the head, which is a distinct area, is bothering me. There are some medals on the figures chest and i ran some super fine sandpaper over one and some of the oxide came up, the sanded area looks white. However that surface is closer to a burnished surface then the face is (I think) - so maybe the face absorbed more Iron Oxide? So I was thinking if I could sand off the face and... I don't know, some white glaze, or even try to underglaze and re-fire? My problems are a) I don't know how deeply Iron Oxide permeates a bisqueware piece, and b) I don't know when to stop messing with something. It may be I should just leave well enough alone. Just tried to put an image up but I'm not sure how to have a URL for an image, my carbonmade account isn't helping. Anyway, any sage advice would be appreciated .
  19. Hi, so I am new at this and asking for help. I had fired my clay, and painted it (with regular paint, ceramics friendly) and then put a glaze over top. The glaze said it could be used over paint and that it should be clear after firing. After firing the glazed pieces, it seems that the paint has been stripped off and the glaze never went clear. Did I do something wrong? My kiln is a cone 8, bought barely used. I followed the instructions on the side and the internet: Cook on low for 1 hr., medium for 2 hrs., and (after looking it up) another hour on low. Also, is there any way I can fix the pieces? They were gifts and took me a while to make them, but I know they're likely ruined. I appreciate any advice and help.
  20. Greetings good people please help me. I am an apprentice potter who's master works almost exclusively in porcelain and I've stained her plaster wedging table with a completely different clay body. I don't know it's name but it's a red clay, much stiffer, which fires to cone 11 where her porcelain is fired to cone 6. Is there a way to clean the pigment out of the plaster, and if I can't is there a risk it will contaminate her white clay in the future, will the pigment dredge up out of the plaster as she wedges? Part if me thinks it's harmless but I'm afraid I've ruined her table. When I've made reclaim in the past white crystals have formed on the surface as the plaster dries, will the red remove itself that way if I add water to the affected area? I really don't know what to do.
  21. Hello, All! I am looking for info on favorite and best clear glazes to use with slip decorations at cone 10, and favorites to use with underglaze at cone 6 on porcelain slip! any and all help is appreciated. I am in my senior year of my ceramics undergrad, so photos of results could be super beneficial because I am not 100% certain of the properties I desire as of just yet. Thank you in advance!
  22. Hi everyone. I have made the most ridiculous mistake (please don’t laugh!). As a Father’s Day present for my bf’s 1st Father’s Day I thought I’d take our little one to a ‘Paint your own pot’ place. Unfortunately, in a moment of insanity (or baby brain!) I incorrectly spelled ‘Father’s’ Is there any way this can be salvaged?? My little ones footprints on it are perfect and I don’t want to throw it away and start a fresh if I can help it. I’d even pay for someone to help salvage it for me if they could !! TIA
  23. Dipped a ton of student pottery into white dipping glaze when I thought it was clear dipping glaze. Any way of taking the white glaze out without harming their work underneath?
  24. Hello everyone! I bought a small top loader kiln that runs of mains (13amp) and I now need to change the elements. I need to know the model and make in order to get the right wattage/amperage elements. If anyone can tell from the photo below please gimme a shout! It has a dawson LT-3 sitter if that's helpful. Can get more photos if helpful! Thanks in advance
  25. I am a hobbyist and I throw at my universities ceramic studio. I have a really hard time drying things right. I go on Tuesdays and Thursdays at noon. If I throw something on Tuesday, I cant get it to dry properly by Thursday. If I put a plastic bag over it it is still far too wet to trim on Thursday and if I leave it completely bare it gets to bone dry. I cant figure out what to do differently. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.