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Found 23 results

  1. Hi, I would like to share my Kiln built and ask for some insights as my experience with Kiln were all in studios where others were operating it and I did not follow the whole firing cycle. I believe it is important to start saying that I was not sure if I should post it here or at "Equipment Use and Repair", please let me know. I will try to convert the metric information to imperial, but i may fail, apologies in advance. I decided to make a small kiln from K28 bricks (1530C / 2800F), the bricks are 65mm(2 1/2"). The bricks lay inside a metal drum, with a thin layer of ce
  2. Hello! I am just getting started on my own pottery studio. I recently bought my Duncan ES 1020 energy saver kiln and came it with nothing. I have been searching high and low for an owners manual and I can't find anything that says "ES" on it. So, is there any differences between the Duncan ES 1020 and the Duncan EA 1020? Could I use the Duncan EA 1020 manual? I'm new to doing this on my own so any advice at all would be greatly appreciated!
  3. Hello! I recently purchased some Laguna Speckled Buff (WC-403) and have been throwing some pieces on the wheel. I have been looking for a perfect honey brown/light tan speckled clay and finally came across this one. Anyway, I made and fired some pieces with a Cone 6 cone in the kiln sitter and everything turned out kind of burned (?) looking and darker than I was expecting. I fired some more pieces but this time put a Cone 5 bar in the kiln sitter and got almost the same result My glazes also aren't showing up as well. Does anyone have any ideas of why it is coming out like this or have
  4. Hi, I am looking for some advise if possible. I fired my kiln last night but the kiln didn't reach full temperature. I looked at the cone I have in my cone stand and it is not melted. The cone in the sitter either melted or fell off and the kiln shut off. Can I re-fire? As I have not unloaded it, can I just turn it on? Thanks Mal
  5. Hi all- hope everyone is doing well wherever you are. I was interested in purchasing an overglaze luster (metallic/gold) to apply to my pottery, but realizing my studio doesn't have the capability to do a 'third firing' for my pieces (especially if it requires different heating instructions etc.). I believe the studio fires at cone 6. Is there an alternative to using overglaze luster that could get me a similar effect? Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks.
  6. Hey everybody, I’m having trouble with my Shimpo. It was given to me by my college because it was sitting in a corner collecting dust. it runs, but it definitely needs new motor mounts and some work underneath. my main concern is that it isn’t running in the forward mode or counterclockwise, instead it’s running clockwise in reverse and forward. the parts number for the is tanac006232-rk2, but the part has been discontinued seeing as though the wheel was manfactured some time between the late 60s and mid 70s. Is there any way to resolve this issue through soldering, as a
  7. Hi All, I am trying out barrel firing whilst in lockdown as I do not have access to a kiln. I'm having some problems. The first firing I used the following 60cm pit dug 3-4 inches on fine sawdust pots (some wrapped in foil, some not) Salt Seaweed Red Iron Oxide More sawdust Kindling, then smaller logs up to larger logs Paper to get the fire going. The fire burned for about 2 hours and I think put a lid on and sealed the edges. Next moring it was still quite hot when I took the lid off, so i left it to cool a while. The pots we
  8. Hello! I am in a bit of a predicament at the moment… My kiln is currently down because I’m waiting on a new thermocouple.. I have a business partner that needs a prototype ornament by Monday of next week (4 days). I am making the ornament out of white sculpture earthenware clay that fires to cone 06-04, the commercial glaze I have fires to 05. When talking to a friend he said to go ahead and glaze it once it was bone dry and single fire it. So, I went ahead and glazed my ornament after it was bone dry. I called the place that I get my supplies from to make sure I was firing my test kiln correc
  9. Cheers! I thank you very much if anyone can consult. I don't know why in the black or red ceramic paste (which I have high temperature), my faldespatico base enamels do not cover this clay. The enamels come out with bubbles.., although in white clay they work well for me. I understand that black clays contain ox iron and manganese..
  10. Hi all. Am having trouble with pinholes. I am using some commercial glazes and one glaze I mixed up from a recipe I found online. I clean my pieces very well before I glaze. I allow to dry before glazing, and leave them covered until glazing. I believe maybe it could be my one glaze recipe, or perhaps it could be the firing. I rent a space and the owner does the firings. He will not let anyone else fire and he blames all defects on you or your pots. Any help is so much appreciated. I am attaching a photo of a bad example of a glaze with a pinhole I got this firing.
  11. Hi there! I am wondering if someone could help me with converting this formula to use a different Feldspar. Possibly give me a good explanation as well.
  12. Hello, I fired my first glaze kiln (electric) last night and it was finished around 6am this morning. Once the temperature started to go down after it got to temp I turned my kiln off and left everything shut. I have been coming down to check the temperature every so often and I have noticed a very faint crackling noise kind of like Velcro being taken apart or electrical crackling.. All of the glazes are supposed to be guaranteed to fit my clay body (I have friends that work at a distribution center making both clay and glaze). My clay is a buff stoneware that fires between cone 2-7 and I am u
  13. Hi! I was running a cone 5 glaze with my skutt electric kiln and forgot to turn on my enviro vent. When I realized it was already finished and at 500F. I have the KMT so was able to see a graph of the firing which looked fine, but it did fire in 4 hrs instead of the regular 13hrs. What problems could this cause ??? Could this hurt my kiln for future firings? Vent is on now and another fan in the studio cause it definitely smells. Thanks!
  14. have inherited a Gare Kiln Model # 1210 Serial # 10.7.84 hertz 60 volts 240 watts 3120 Amperes 13 inf phase single and I need your help pricing it. It’s better than used condition but not new. I would say used 5 times total and has the stand, all working parts, etc. I have someone wanting to buy it, but I can’t find any information online to compare too. Please help your girl out!
  15. Hello all. I recently started experimenting with mixing Mason stains in with my b-mix clay body. The green I tried came out beautifully, but the crimson when fired to cone 6 was left with no color. Any suggestions? I thought maybe I hadn't done a high enough percentage, but after doubling the amount it still was the same amount of colorless. I just did a small pebble of clay and left one side unglazed and covered the other with Mayco's zinc free clear and that didn't keep the color in either.
  16. I just bought a collection of ceramic pieces, green ware, bisque, partly painted or choked, from a former ceramic painting teacher. Most of the pieces are from the late 80's to early 2000's. I'm trying to find out how to fix some of these pieces, such as broken antlers or wings, legs or feet or arms or hands. Some of these pieces have been started painting or choked, some are green and some have been fired ready for painting or choking. How do I fix these pieces if I'm going to glaze them then fire them again? How do I fix the green ware so I can fire it? What is the best way to fix the p
  17. The kiln is giving me an E1 error. Can I fix this myself? How?
  18. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructo
  19. Hello! I wasn't particularly sure which forum I should post this request, but I was wondering if anyone was able to help me out. I recently broke a decoration owned by my mother, one that she very much liked, and I was hoping someone would be able to help me identify it in order for me to buy another. She is not sure where she got it, but we are based in the UK. But we have a feeling it may be Scandinavian. I have searched around the web, and have failed in finding it available to buy. It may be only available in a store somewhere. Here is a link to a photo of it - https://d
  20. Hello, I just came upon a medium size kiln. It was free, came with no manual or use instructions. I am a first time kiln user so I don't want to do anything without more information on this specific kiln. It is a very old Aim Ceramic Kiln with a sitter, Model K-10. Is there anyone out there who can give me some advice on this particular kiln? Thank you
  21. Hello I used a series of 4 glazes layered on a recent set of plates. Every single one of them has crawled, especially on one particular colour which I’m guessing is the thicker application when layered? My question is, can I reglaze and refire them, perhaps to a lower temperature? They’ve been fired to cone 7 (electric), and it’s a Valentine’s Delta stoneware. I’ve refired plates before and they’ve broken right down the centre. I’ve seen people on here say they’ve had success with refiring and wondering if there’s a recommended technique. Attached a couple of photos of th
  22. Hello, I have a figurative sculpture piece in a cone 5 white stoneware that I made poor Iron Oxide choice on. I put a fairly light Iron Oxide wash on over the entire thing as bisqueware, then fired it to cone 5. I'm O.K. ( or fatalistic) with about 90% of the surface, but the region of the head, which is a distinct area, is bothering me. There are some medals on the figures chest and i ran some super fine sandpaper over one and some of the oxide came up, the sanded area looks white. However that surface is closer to a burnished surface then the face is (I think) - so maybe the face absorbed mo
  23. Hi all, I have recently purchased a Podmore wheel to find that the whole electrics system needs repairing! not ideal Everything else in the wheel seems in good condition and would be a shame to write the wheel off! My uncle fixes motorbikes and deals with electrics so had a look at it and got it working but then it stopped again. we figure that someone previously has done some soldering work on it and basically it needs a replacement electric system. I rang Potterycrafts who took over Podmore in 1982 and asked if it could be refurbished or if they sell the parts and they s
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