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  1. HELP ..... ... Trying to get back to ceramics .I’ve just finished mixing a small quantity batch of stains and underglazes with slip ( same clay bodies nothing else ) I’ve used 60 % slip to the ratio of about 10% stain to both stain and underglazes But have found that the underglaze slips are much thinner than the stain slips .Consistencies are different .Most stains seems to be thicker than underglazes Aside from black and purple which are def thinner . How to rectify ......???? Do I add more slip or stain to thicken ??? Or is it more complicated than I imagine . ? Bare in mind I am not
  2. If someone could please help me by simplifying the differences for me between “ slip , engobes and underglazes “ I use both porcelain and stoneware . And fire in an electric kiln 1) Slip is used mixing same clay body with stain and water . And applied to leatherhard only . (what other are ingredients could be used in stains for different surface effects ?) 2) Engobes are used only on leatherhard (?) 3)Underglazes can be used both on leatherhard and bisque (?) . Thank you so much Nicky
  3. Hi all, Currently I work with mid-fire slip and glaze my work 'traditionally' to achieve quite muted, natural tones. I'm thinking about making some wares that I want to be BRIGHT and flat in colour - like popping, primary colours. I'm wondering what the best way to achieve this level of colour would be? In my experience using stains in glazes never seems to achieve the flatness I'm after. I would suspect a coloured slip might be the answer but again using stains only seems to result in pastels - what is the average ratio of stain to slip to achieve a full bodied
  4. Hello everyone, this is my first time on the forum, so glad I found you all. I wonder if anyone can help me with my slipcasting problem? I have made a narrow (4cm) and tall (26cm) cylinder mould and although the first cast came out satisfactory, the next three have came out the mould with the bases ‘sucked’ in/imploded. Could it be that the opening to the mould is too narrow to drain the slip? Or could my slip be too thick? When I cut into the cast it was still filled with slip about a quarter of the way up the form. If my slip is too thick, could I add a little water to thin it down?
  5. I am new to ceramics and can't seem to find any info on creating a strong white slip for decoration, not casting.Porcelain clay , I guess would be the optimum. If so how please? Powder ?...dried clay rewetted? Plus any additions? How would this work as far as compatability goes with stoneware clays? Also I would like to make an engobe white to use on bisque...any ideas please ?
  6. Would someone care to explain why slip recipes always say to begin with bone dry clay? Is that somehow better (or the end result different) than using wet clay. Its as if the instructions for boiling water said "First take some ice cubes ....."
  7. Dear all This is my first post here, having been a lurking reader for a while. I would like to suspend some coarse particulates in a porcelain slip. I am intrigued by the coarse feldspar inclusions in some Japanese wood fired pottery. I have tried adding coarse inclusions in a porcelain body, which fired well but the large chunks got in the way of my preferred style of handbuilding and surforming the surface. I now want to try to add these particulates in a porcelain slip that I can apply to my pots by dipping. Does anyone have any tricks on how to suspend larger particu
  8. Hi clay folks! I'm a technician at my local studio and we want to switch to a new colored slip pallette for some of our lessons. We currently work with a 3-5% mason stain addition. I want to make a navy blue, forest green, dark red, and mustard yellow. If you've made these colors, which mason stains (#s) work well, and what percentages do you use them at to get a vibrant color? I'll totally play with line blends too, just thought I'd check if anyone has a good starting point! Lindsey
  9. Hi all, Second time posting here and I’m hoping you can help! Hopefully this is the right place to be for a troubleshooting question like this. Im currently working from a recipe for Val Cushing’s Cone 6 Porcelain Slip. grolleg: 15% tile 6: 15% Epk: 3% om4: 10% flint: 25% neph sy: 30% gerstley borate: 2% —————————— Sodium silicate: .0028% calgon: .0005% When I mixed this before, as now, I subbed the deflocculants with Darvan. I mixed it successfully then, but I’m currently have difficulty. I know that darvan generally subs
  10. I’ve been experimenting with making low-fire red clay plant pots, using a white slip and carvings for decoration. I’ve left them unglazed because I’d like them to breathe. However, I’ve found that the white slip discolors within a week or so of watering (it gets greenish brownish). I tried a commercial white underglaze instead, and it seems to have the same issue. Any thoughts on ways to get around this, other than staying away from the slips altogether?
  11. I just mixed a bunch of colored slips for the studio using trimmings from Laguna #65. I left the studio for 2 weeks and I come back and all the slips I mixed have turned black and smell something fierce. How can I fix or prevent this for next time cause I definitely just burned $20 of mason stain. Would a vinegar ratio have killed bacteria growth? Should I not have used trimmings and just mixed a clay base?
  12. I just finished my senior year of high school, and I had done a lot of experimenting with slip casting at home (we didnt have the resources/time to do it at school). I kept my used slip in a few empty plastic coffee containers, and my fresh stuff in a large square plastic container. I hadnt been able to use my slip for about a month, but when i went to check on it there’s green stuff floating all around in it, which I think is mold. It’s a stoneware clay, and I kept my container out side, with a bag covering it, because I dont think the lid has an air tight seal on it. What should I do w
  13. I'm working on a trompe l'oeil porcelain wedding cake. The clay is Laguna cone 10 and has their added plasticizer. Porcelain doesn't behave like sugar and shortening, of course, and sometimes crumbles when I try to extrude elements. Can I add some sugar based material like corn syrup or regular sugar or maybe something like gelatin or agar agar to make the clay stick together better? The additive or any mold that grows on it will burn out, but could it cause problems with drying or pitted surfaces? I don't plan to reclaim any scraps. Cynthia
  14. Hi Everyone, I'm so inspired by the posts in this forum. I've never worked with ceramic, but have been considering it recently. I've found this picture below. I would like to make a similar item using a piece of crochet or a doily. I suppose I would need to work with high firing porcelain clay and need a high firing temperature furnace. I can't wait to experiment I have two questions - Is there a book or an online course that can teach me the basics for working with porcelain clay, materials tools and process? What temperature furnace I need to purchase?
  15. I have concluded my studies on stoneware and porcelain: time to move on to a new topic. I have been reading some background studies done in the 40s, thru 70,s. on slip chemistry. I am interested in hearing experiences, thoughts, opinions, links to articles, abstracts, etc. This is an open topic, so as long as your post has the word "clay" in it: ramble on. Finite details welcomed. I have been reading studies from W.G. Lawrence and A.F. Norton; both Alfred PhD's on this topic. While viscosity was covered, there was much more emphasis placed on the water film, PH levels, temperature,
  16. Hello all! My partner and I want to slip cast cups, I have a bit of an idea when it comes to ceramics (thanks mum) but have some questions :) We have found a clay that already has a speckle in it - can we use it to make slip for casting? If the clay cannot be made into slip - is there something we could add to plain slip to make a speckled look (that's food safe)? Can we add pigment to clay/slip that already has a speckle? Would this interfere with the chemistry? I know the other option is to use glaze to achieve a speckled look but we would prefer that it came from
  17. I am working on figurative ceramic sculptures and would like to bisque them (08) since they are very fragile. Then I want to coat them so the effect is multiple thick layers of colored slips/engobe? I am using stoneware b clay with grog. I love the look that artists like Michele Gregor has, Debra Fritt....I assume that potters can help me understand the chemistry and what I CAN use to get this look. As I read, I am learning that I can color engobes with mason stain BUT I need to make sure the engobe recipe is right so that it will bond with the bisqued clay body? I have never made slip or engo
  18. Does anyone have any input on why I’m getting intermittent peeling slip on my cone 1 red earthenware pots? It happens on a handful of pots from each firing. Typically, it’s on the edges of a pot (mostly near the rim). I’ve tried reformulating my slip recipe and am now using deflocculated slip (Martina Lantin’s recipe). My colors are from the base recipe with the addition of mason stains. I use Laguna red earthenware clay and fire to cone 1. I hoped the deflocculated slip would solve the problem since the water content is so low, but it hasn’t. I’m ready to give up! It’s so frustrating. I’d gr
  19. Hi, Would it work to use a decorating slip on greenware , bisque fire it and then decorate with underglazes before clear glazing and firing? I seem to remember someone telling me that the colour of the slip would mix with the underglaze but I don't know if firing in-between would maybe help with that? The reason I'd like to do this is for the slip to be the background colour, as I've found it tends to be less patchy than underglaze for larger areas. And for the underglaze to be the design detail on top. Is that a sensible way to do it or is there a better way to achieve someth
  20. I am using underglaze to create designs on newsprint underneath slip to form decals to apply to greenware. I need advice on how to avoid streaking underglaze.
  21. Hi, i'm having trouble with iron oxide slip applied at the greenware stage. i've noticed that a thin layer gives varied colours and a thick layer gives either black or nothing- does it burn off? (i use a transparent glaze over this) additionally, a lot of the colour washes out on cleaning after bisque. what's going wrong and how can i stablize the slip to give me a solid black? i use stoneware fired to cone 09 bisque and cone 6 glaze. thanks!
  22. Hey All! I'm new here and very new to throwing clay (6 months in) but have come to LOVE using colored slip on greenware and doing sgraffito. Now, please excuse my novice questions but I've been looking online for recipes for different colored slips. My pottery mentor told me to avoid buying stains as they are way too overpriced and to make my own colored slips with different chemicals. I found a black slip recipe easily but can't find a purple one or pink or yellow or green...even blue. Are there such recipes? I do love vibrant colors so this may be something that doesn't exist.
  23. Hello, I am new here and also just taken over a small pottery studio with limited experience. I have done pottery as a hobby and now in at the deep end, which is fun but also daunting and expensive! I have looked online for the best and cheapest way to make underglazes for kids to use on greenware for one-off groups. (also considering just keeping it un-glazed and send off bisqued to paint at home?!) I made some stained glaze powder/ ball clay concoctions but were very weak in colour and too thick. Can someone please advise on the cheapest way to make underglazes? I have seen other pott
  24. I have some white stoneware slip that I bought from my clay supplier, I just want to know if I can add black iron oxide to it to get a black fired clay, and if I can do that then how much oxide do I need to add to get it really black?
  25. I have a bucket of old porcelain casting slip that I made a couple of years ago, and I'm wondering if I can reconstitute it. It's pretty chunky, it was originally deflocculated with Darvan 811. Can I get it back to a proper consistency for casting? Should I add more Darvan? Also, does Darvan expire?
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