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Found 101 results

  1. Hi all, Second time posting here and I’m hoping you can help! Hopefully this is the right place to be for a troubleshooting question like this. Im currently working from a recipe for Val Cushing’s Cone 6 Porcelain Slip. grolleg: 15% tile 6: 15% Epk: 3% om4: 10% flint: 25% neph sy: 30% gerstley borate: 2% —————————— Sodium silicate: .0028% calgon: .0005% When I mixed this before, as now, I subbed the deflocculants with Darvan. I mixed it successfully then, but I’m currently have difficulty. I know that darvan generally subs for sodium silicate at 2-1, so bearing that in mind, that’s where I started. I kept adding darvan in small 5g increments up to 100g in a 10000g recipe. That seems like far too much, but maybe I’m wrong? I feel like I’m on the other side of that deflocculation bell curve some how and missed my mark. Every time I come back to the studio the slip is gelled thick but never settled and never develops a skin. When I’ve added more darvan, the slip temporarily thins, but seems to rebound to being too thick the next day. Can the casting process indicate overdeflocculation? If so, in what ways? What should I be looking out for other than settling and a skin in my bucket? Can anyone offer any advice on this recipe or deflocculants? I’ve been doing some hard research and testing and can’t nail it down. My current gravity is measuring at 1.71, so I’m hesitant to add more water, since according to some other online sources I should be aiming between 1.7 and 1.8. I’m wondering if I should throw caution to the wind and say “this slip just needs more water than most”. Ive mixed this slip before with great success two years ago. I have no clue what I did right then. Dumb luck haha. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  2. I’ve been experimenting with making low-fire red clay plant pots, using a white slip and carvings for decoration. I’ve left them unglazed because I’d like them to breathe. However, I’ve found that the white slip discolors within a week or so of watering (it gets greenish brownish). I tried a commercial white underglaze instead, and it seems to have the same issue. Any thoughts on ways to get around this, other than staying away from the slips altogether?
  3. I just mixed a bunch of colored slips for the studio using trimmings from Laguna #65. I left the studio for 2 weeks and I come back and all the slips I mixed have turned black and smell something fierce. How can I fix or prevent this for next time cause I definitely just burned $20 of mason stain. Would a vinegar ratio have killed bacteria growth? Should I not have used trimmings and just mixed a clay base?
  4. I just finished my senior year of high school, and I had done a lot of experimenting with slip casting at home (we didnt have the resources/time to do it at school). I kept my used slip in a few empty plastic coffee containers, and my fresh stuff in a large square plastic container. I hadnt been able to use my slip for about a month, but when i went to check on it there’s green stuff floating all around in it, which I think is mold. It’s a stoneware clay, and I kept my container out side, with a bag covering it, because I dont think the lid has an air tight seal on it. What should I do with this slip? Should i let it dry out if it’ll kill off the mold and just rework it after? Would mixing it or adding something help?
  5. I'm working on a trompe l'oeil porcelain wedding cake. The clay is Laguna cone 10 and has their added plasticizer. Porcelain doesn't behave like sugar and shortening, of course, and sometimes crumbles when I try to extrude elements. Can I add some sugar based material like corn syrup or regular sugar or maybe something like gelatin or agar agar to make the clay stick together better? The additive or any mold that grows on it will burn out, but could it cause problems with drying or pitted surfaces? I don't plan to reclaim any scraps. Cynthia
  6. Hi Everyone, I'm so inspired by the posts in this forum. I've never worked with ceramic, but have been considering it recently. I've found this picture below. I would like to make a similar item using a piece of crochet or a doily. I suppose I would need to work with high firing porcelain clay and need a high firing temperature furnace. I can't wait to experiment I have two questions - Is there a book or an online course that can teach me the basics for working with porcelain clay, materials tools and process? What temperature furnace I need to purchase?
  7. I have concluded my studies on stoneware and porcelain: time to move on to a new topic. I have been reading some background studies done in the 40s, thru 70,s. on slip chemistry. I am interested in hearing experiences, thoughts, opinions, links to articles, abstracts, etc. This is an open topic, so as long as your post has the word "clay" in it: ramble on. Finite details welcomed. I have been reading studies from W.G. Lawrence and A.F. Norton; both Alfred PhD's on this topic. While viscosity was covered, there was much more emphasis placed on the water film, PH levels, temperature, and particle stacking. It was specifically noted that "particle stacking" is an entirely different principle than particle distribution. Was or is any of these principles taught, or still covered today? Any potter familiar with "terra sig" has delved into PH and particle stacking. Does anyone have links about the effects of temperature on ionic charges? Tom i realize there are many links to collidal chemistry, PH dependent charges, etc: but interested in those specifically related to pottery use.
  8. Hello all! My partner and I want to slip cast cups, I have a bit of an idea when it comes to ceramics (thanks mum) but have some questions :) We have found a clay that already has a speckle in it - can we use it to make slip for casting? If the clay cannot be made into slip - is there something we could add to plain slip to make a speckled look (that's food safe)? Can we add pigment to clay/slip that already has a speckle? Would this interfere with the chemistry? I know the other option is to use glaze to achieve a speckled look but we would prefer that it came from the clay. (the speckled glaze I have used in the past is glossy and we want a matte finish) I've attached a picture of the look we want to achieve with slip casting - I hope this helps Thanks everyone xx
  9. I am working on figurative ceramic sculptures and would like to bisque them (08) since they are very fragile. Then I want to coat them so the effect is multiple thick layers of colored slips/engobe? I am using stoneware b clay with grog. I love the look that artists like Michele Gregor has, Debra Fritt....I assume that potters can help me understand the chemistry and what I CAN use to get this look. As I read, I am learning that I can color engobes with mason stain BUT I need to make sure the engobe recipe is right so that it will bond with the bisqued clay body? I have never made slip or engobe before. Yes, I'm a newb.
  10. Does anyone have any input on why I’m getting intermittent peeling slip on my cone 1 red earthenware pots? It happens on a handful of pots from each firing. Typically, it’s on the edges of a pot (mostly near the rim). I’ve tried reformulating my slip recipe and am now using deflocculated slip (Martina Lantin’s recipe). My colors are from the base recipe with the addition of mason stains. I use Laguna red earthenware clay and fire to cone 1. I hoped the deflocculated slip would solve the problem since the water content is so low, but it hasn’t. I’m ready to give up! It’s so frustrating. I’d greatly appreciate advice on this. See the attached photo.
  11. Hi, Would it work to use a decorating slip on greenware , bisque fire it and then decorate with underglazes before clear glazing and firing? I seem to remember someone telling me that the colour of the slip would mix with the underglaze but I don't know if firing in-between would maybe help with that? The reason I'd like to do this is for the slip to be the background colour, as I've found it tends to be less patchy than underglaze for larger areas. And for the underglaze to be the design detail on top. Is that a sensible way to do it or is there a better way to achieve something like that? I'm fairly new to decorating - any advice appreciated! Thanks :)
  12. Dear all This is my first post here, having been a lurking reader for a while. I would like to suspend some coarse particulates in a porcelain slip. I am intrigued by the coarse feldspar inclusions in some Japanese wood fired pottery. I have tried adding coarse inclusions in a porcelain body, which fired well but the large chunks got in the way of my preferred style of handbuilding and surforming the surface. I now want to try to add these particulates in a porcelain slip that I can apply to my pots by dipping. Does anyone have any tricks on how to suspend larger particulates in a clay slip, eg grog or coarse inclusions? Do grogged slips exist? I was thinking that perhaps adding bentonite could help due to its thixotropy, but I am not sure. Any help from this very helpful forum in my self-learning endeavors would be much appreciated Best Joris The Netherlands
  13. I am using underglaze to create designs on newsprint underneath slip to form decals to apply to greenware. I need advice on how to avoid streaking underglaze.
  14. Hi, i'm having trouble with iron oxide slip applied at the greenware stage. i've noticed that a thin layer gives varied colours and a thick layer gives either black or nothing- does it burn off? (i use a transparent glaze over this) additionally, a lot of the colour washes out on cleaning after bisque. what's going wrong and how can i stablize the slip to give me a solid black? i use stoneware fired to cone 09 bisque and cone 6 glaze. thanks!
  15. Hey All! I'm new here and very new to throwing clay (6 months in) but have come to LOVE using colored slip on greenware and doing sgraffito. Now, please excuse my novice questions but I've been looking online for recipes for different colored slips. My pottery mentor told me to avoid buying stains as they are way too overpriced and to make my own colored slips with different chemicals. I found a black slip recipe easily but can't find a purple one or pink or yellow or green...even blue. Are there such recipes? I do love vibrant colors so this may be something that doesn't exist. Please share what you know about coloring slips without stains. Thanks! Kristy
  16. Hello, I am new here and also just taken over a small pottery studio with limited experience. I have done pottery as a hobby and now in at the deep end, which is fun but also daunting and expensive! I have looked online for the best and cheapest way to make underglazes for kids to use on greenware for one-off groups. (also considering just keeping it un-glazed and send off bisqued to paint at home?!) I made some stained glaze powder/ ball clay concoctions but were very weak in colour and too thick. Can someone please advise on the cheapest way to make underglazes? I have seen other potters have jars of it in kids classes in the past... Does mixing it with ball clay always dull down the colour and what ratio is best? Using just water is too runny. Advice greatly appreciated. Thanks
  17. I have some white stoneware slip that I bought from my clay supplier, I just want to know if I can add black iron oxide to it to get a black fired clay, and if I can do that then how much oxide do I need to add to get it really black?
  18. I have a bucket of old porcelain casting slip that I made a couple of years ago, and I'm wondering if I can reconstitute it. It's pretty chunky, it was originally deflocculated with Darvan 811. Can I get it back to a proper consistency for casting? Should I add more Darvan? Also, does Darvan expire?
  19. Hi everyone, I am experimenting with sponges, submerged in slurry/ slip. I have seen a view examples that I am trying to replicate. I have done a view test using natural sponges. I do not want to use any artificial sponge due to unhealthy fumes that might occur wile firing. However, the results so far did not really satisfy me. The remaining structure of the sponge looked interesting but it was very brittle and fell apart easily. I fired it at cone 05. I am wondering if anyone has some experience on that subject and a tip what I could do differently? And do you have any recommendation for natural spongy materials that I could use, alternatively to a sponge? Thank you so much for any advice , best wishes, Seb
  20. Hello everyone, I am wondering if anybody can give me an advice on deflocculation? I am trying to adjust the viscosity of one gallon slip "Cone 06 Casting Slip - White" from a ca 50 seconds runtime, to ca 30 seconds. I have used dispersal "Darvan 7" in small increments and I am not adding water! For some reason, the slip does not seem to change significantly. Could there be an issue that I am not aware of? About how much would I roughly need to add to a gallon to get the running time down about 20 seconds under normal circumstances? Any advice would be so much appreciated! Thanks everyone, Seb
  21. Hello all, I'm participating in my first wood firing, and I have been doing some reading about using flashing slips. Some say they are applied thinly over bisque wear, others seem to apply before the bisque. Anyone have some experience with these methods? Photos would be greatly appreciated as well! I'm also interested in trying to spray some slips. Thanks!
  22. Apologies for the stupid question - I'm very very new to this Can I use slip at the greenware stage instead of glaze for drinking cups/mugs, or will they leak? The reason I'm asking is that I want my mugs to have a very thin matte finish. Maybe there is a better way to achieve that? Thank you and I'm sorry if the question is too stupid. Nili
  23. Hi everyone I am the tech at a small studio and introduced a Zakin clear (cone6) to them as a new clear glaze. They had been using Ron Meyers recipe and wanted something they could dip. It seem to be working just fine until a studio member put it over a slip colored with Raven Black mason stain. It changed from black to a rusty chocolate brown. Has anyone else run into this issue? Any advice or ideas would be great. Thanks! Slip recipe: Raven Black mason stain porcelain sodium sicate soda ash Zakin clear: Silica 18 kona F4 40 wollastonite 10 Gerstley borate 16 OM4 12 Zinc 4
  24. I've got a bone dry bowl. Arctic white stoneware. It has thin walls and has been sitting for about a month. I also have a 'raven black' slip (description below). Is it possible for me to paint the pot with the slip, then paint patterns with shellac and wipe the black slip away, revealing the clay underneath? I'm unsure if the bowl will take the slip and whether it's possible to wipe the excess away, so I'm left with a black pattern. Ideas: These decorating slips, are suitable for use on both Earthernware and Stoneware bodies. When manufacturing our slips we believe in using high percentages of stain to give strong, vivid colours throughout the range. The slip can be applied to leather hard clay with brushes, sponges or slip trailers. After biscuit firing the pots should be glazed with a suitable transparent glaze which will further enhance the vibrant colours. Our sample is fired to 1060degC.The colours darken the higher you fire. Wide firing range - 1000-1300°C" Is it possible for me to paint the pot with the slip, then paint patterns with shellac and wipe the black slip
  25. I'm looking for any advice on properly maintaining a pouring table and the slip in it. Any advice is welcomed! Thank you in advance.
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