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tomhumf

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About tomhumf

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    http://www.thelittlepotcompany.co.uk

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    Sheffield, UK

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  1. I do start reduction around 1600, and I'm pretty happy with how my firing cycle goes at the moment for most of my work. Even this glaze turns out good 95% of the time. I think I'll just do some tests reducing the titanium then look at other options if that doesn't work. I read this on digitalfire.com , hopefully it's ok to quote : ". 6% is pushing the edge of how much titanium should be in a recipe. Any more, or cooling too slow, could transform the surface into a mass of white crystals (which would be rough and non-functional)."
  2. Hmm, I don't think it's glaze thickness. I use it on a lot of wider open items and it's fine. On the underside of plates it's ok outside footring but bad inside the footring. It is a speckled body, I don't really want to change that though. Hopefully I can tweak the glaze to fix.
  3. Hmm, not really sure. It seems to just be on the bits that are getting the least air. I'll do some tests with less titanium. I guess I could substitute some for zirc sil.
  4. Right, it's hard to see from photo but the surface on these bits is really pitted, like the glaze has been bubbling or something. Would that be due to too much reduction?
  5. Hmm, would the copper encourage that? Maybe I can use a bit less
  6. Outsides and sides inside always look fine
  7. I love this glaze but it can go bubbly during reduction. I suppose it must be something to do with the oxygen levels because it usually happens underneath footings, or at the bottom of thinner, taller cups. I used to fire it in electric kiln and never got any bubbles. I don't want to change my firings as my other glazes work well with my methods. Can you see anything in the recipe I could change to reduce the bubbling, without totally changing the look of the glaze? I'm firing to cone 7 Turquoise
  8. Thanks for the previous messages about burners. I think I may get another but I had a niggle about the chimney diameter. I decided to spend a couple of hours reducing the internal size to 6" X 6". Tests are below in degrees C. The first test with open damper was an improvement with this size. With the damper at 1" though it wasn't quite as good as the 9 X 6 chimney, no matter how I adjusted the chimney height. So I guess I'll have to change it back although the tests aren't probably super accurate. I may do a bisque firing first to see how it copes at higher temperatures. Can
  9. Cone, left to right, too, middle, bottom
  10. I've just unloaded my first glaze firing from this kiln. Firing schedule is below. I struggled with reduction, first I had blue flame from peep with damper at 1/2". I had then almost closed damper and got yellow flame but the temp started dropping. I decided to limit the air going into the burner with some tape which gave reduction with the temp climbing. Not sure this is good practice - my burner has screws to adjust the air so should probably use those next time. The reduction lasted around an hour although it probably was only yellow flame for around 40 mins. I would have kept i
  11. Right, the spade fell off one of the connectors because I move it between kiln a fair bit. I did just hook the bare wire round and screw in, I thought maybe this was a bit of a bodge though. I will get some new wire because it's pretty beat up, but I'll just connect it direct if that's good then. I have some newer thermocouples I'll start using without corroded bits. What happens if polarity is wrong, it just gives no reading?
  12. I need to get some new thermocouple wires like in the picture. They have flat 'ears' to connect to the thermocouples I use. All the ones on Amazon seem to have only one wire without the ears at the thermocouple end. Can anyone help me with terminology to track these down? Thanks https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-K-Type-temperatura-termopar-alambre/dp/B00UBWR5T6/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=thermocouple+wire&qid=1595169587&sr=8-9
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