DMCosta

Ow wow that's so amazing, thank you for the detailed response! I plan to do that.

Hi Everyone, so I returned back to work today for staff development (I'm a HS ceramics teacher) and I have all these untouched boxes of low fire Amaco clay in which the clay has gotten unusably dry. There are two 25LB bags of clay in each box and I was wondering how I can reclaim them back to life? I saw something years ago on how to do it but I cannot find that content now. I ordered new clay to use with the students but it'll literally take months to see that order. Was hoping someone had a solution to revive these bags of clay. Thank you, ~Dianna

This is really helpful thanks. They're trimming super well and even. The way you only tape/cover the rim and leave the rest exposed is interesting I never thought of that.

Thanks everyone it seems my issue is likely that I'm not transferring the plate properly from the original bat to the wheel for trimming. I wasn't doing the flip technique mentioned I was just lifting it off the bat manually which may have been why I had the warping. I'm going to have to give it another go and hope I yield better results with your advice!

Ok yeah makes sense it does keep it's shape after trimming. I'm not new to pottery but apparently new to making dinnerware plates haha

That's great advice thank you. So after trimming to get it right side up again do you flip it again using a bat?

I basically did the same, I let them get leatherhard on the bat then only removed them for trimming.

Thanks for the advice

Good point that's a possibility I have seen a ton of videos where people flip the piece onto a clean bat. I didnt do that, I just lifted them off the bat which could have caused this problem. I was able to flatten them back again since they're leatherhard but because of the clay memory I feel like when I fire them they'll resort back to bring warped. Sigh.

I'm throwing them on the bat as well. I only I'm throwing them on the bat as well. I only move them off the bat when ready to trim.

So I'm on the quest to make proper dinnerware plates. I first tried handbuilding them using the G R Pottery forms and when I fired them almost all warped in firing. I recently made some nice thrown plates and just finished trimming them. I go to check on them today and every one is already warping. They're all ovaling or what I call lemon-ing out. They're basically at the middle of leatherhard now. I had them about 80% wrapped last night and intending on drying them to leatherhard slow and steady. I'm using cone 6 Standard 710 brown clay and compressed them very diligently with my rib when th

So I ordered some new kiln shelves and thought I had kiln wash. Turns out I think I brought it to work and left it there. I wanted to fire tonight or tomorrow. Does anyone have any DIY kiln wash substitutes or recipes I could use? I don't mix my own glazes anymore but I do have potash feldspar and frit in my cabinet if that can help. Thank you, ~Dianba

Ow that's good to know - I bought those same exact Minnesota Stamping Pads and that's what I intend to use.

Ok thanks for the advice. Some of my pieces such as my slab built plates don't have a foot on them so clear glazing over the underglazed stamp could be tough.

Hi Everyone so I have a stamp with my new logo on it and I want to stamp the logo onto the bases of my tableware pieces using underglaze. My intent is not to have the stamp make an impression in the clay, rather a surface decoration. So here's my question...if I stamp the pieces after the bisque with the underglaze do you think it'll hold up for wear and tear? I never use underglazes on bisqued wares but I know they technically can be used. The pieces are currently bone dry and I may not want to risk stamping the bases now with underglaze in their fragile stage. Thanks!