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Dick White

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About Dick White

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    Springfield, VA USA

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  1. I tried the sausage mixer. Nice idea, but didn't work very well. The clay sticks to the blades and the whole thing turns as one, no mixing occurs until you wet it down to slip slop consistency. And then, once mixed, you have to dig it out with a spoon. If you lived near me (or I had enough money for a vacation in France) I would give it to you.
  2. Oh my, you have a small problem there. As Pres notes, it is indeed a 120V kiln. It is rated to draw 16 amps, which requires a 20 amp circuit. The plug in your picture, however, has been improperly "altered." A 120V/20A circuit uses a NEMA 5-20 plug and receptacle in which the flat blades are not parallel. Your picture shows that the blade on the left side, which was supposed to be vertical, has been twisted to horizontal to match the blade on the right side. This changes it to a NEMA 6-15 configuration, which would be 240V and 15 amps if the matching receptacle is appropriately wired. Thus, if
  3. Pics are not accessible - you need to set them to public on your google drive or transfer them here.
  4. You can buy a whole new power cord from Skutt for $98.00, or just the plug end for $58.00. In electrician-speak, the plug is a 6-50P (that's the NEMA designation for that configuration) and the receptacle is 6-50R. The receptacle will probably be easy for the electrician to find, but the plug end may be more difficult to find locally.
  5. I too use a woodworking miter box and a wire in an old hand jig saw. I have a piece of thin foam across the bottom so that the wire can push into the foam so as to cut cleanly all the way through the extrusion.
  6. Thanks @Bill KielbMy thoughts about the S-type TC derive from the conventional wisdom that K-types have uncertain (but probably not huge) inaccuracy above 2000F, and will drift over time as they wear. I don't know if K-types are slightly variable at manufacture or if a new TC were properly dialed in for cone 6 with the controller, one could put a different new one in every day and each one would be spot on every time? Certainly, it would seem that replacing an old one where the controller has been recalibrated from time to time to compensate for age-drift would require the offset to be tweaked
  7. When installing a new K-type thermocouple (or buying a new kiln with a K), there is some calibration of the controller required to adjust the offset so that a witness cone bends at the stated temperature per both the Orton chart and the display on the controller. I am considering a switch to S for greater accuracy and am wondering if these typically are accurate out of the box, or will I need to run several firings to tweak the controller offset until everything matches? Thanks
  8. Having dabbled in crystalline glazes more than a few times, my understanding of the process is there is way way way too much zinc (25%+/-) in the recipe for a "normal" glaze, but it is all incorporated into the melt at peak temperature in what might be similar to a supersaturated solution. There is very little calcium or alumina so that the molten glaze is nice and loose (runs like the dickens) for the crystals to grow without any impediments. While the silica molar level is low in absolute terms, with almost no alumina, the Si:Al ratio is over the moon. As it slowly cools, the zinc molecules
  9. Anthracite is coal, which is carbon. It will burn out during the firing.
  10. Well, actually, there is a problem that is specific to the Shimpo Whisper, Giffin has acknowledged it and is trying to develop a solution. I don't know the progress on that. The physics principle involved is that when you accelerate the wheelhead, the differential momentum of the accelerating wheelhead (which the lower part of the Grip is attached to by the friction of the legs) vs. upper plate of the Grip which is still stationary or rotating at a slower speed will cause the pads to move slightly inward on their spiral tracks to maintain the grip on your piece. With the direct drive electroni
  11. While waiting for your pictures, a kiln must be on a circuit that is 125% of the amperage of the kiln. Yours is 24 amps, so a 30 amp circuit is needed. The 8 ga. wire is more than enough. Leave it alone. Your kiln had a 50 amp plug. This is probably just a convenient coincidence, as that is what larger kilns use, so perhaps they just built them all with the same power cord, less inventory to keep on hand in the factory. It doesn't need to be 50, but that's what was there. You've already cut it off, so you are stuck with that. It would have been easier to change the outlet on the wall for
  12. Ha. For some, this glaze chem stuff IS wilderness camping. All. The. Time.
  13. Dip the tip of the syringe in the glaze and then tare (zero) the scale to adjust out the weight of the empty syringe plus the little bit that will be on the outside of the syringe tip. Snarf up the 100ml, and weigh it straight. The number on the scale IS the S.G. No need to mentally subtract out the syringe itself.
  14. This is an interesting and useful discussion. I too have noticed the top and bottom sections "working" harder than the middle, but didn't put it together the way you just did. I wonder if this is where Skutt gets it by putting hotter elements at top and bottom? If one paid extra for a Skutt with 3-zone control and the touchscreen, would the data dump show the top and bottom sections at lower percentages, closer to the middle section to maintain even temperature?
  15. People who have a Skutt 181 seem to like them, though that model is long out of production. It will be a manual kiln with switches and a kiln sitter. While new kilns with a digital controller often have a price premium of ~$200 over the comparable manual model, the cost to add a standalone digital controller to a manual kiln is in the order of $6-800 depending on the features. $600 for this small one is a tad high but could be worth it if it includes shelves and posts.
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