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Dick White

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  1. https://www.newark.com/potter-brumfield-te-connectivity/t92p7d22-12/relay-dpst-no-277vac-28vdc-30a/dp/17M3087?ost=17m3087
  2. I keep a few relays and a thermocouple on hand, mostly because they aren't expensive (you can find the relays much cheaper at online electrical supply sources). The other thing you will need for the task is a good strong crimper. The element connections in a Skutt are crimp barrels, which need to be crimped as hard and tight as you can. An ordinary pliers is not going to do the job.
  3. Ok, good news there. It is rated to cone 8 - it has the maximum allowable amperage for a plug-in kiln, but it is larger than average so the heat-to-volume ratio is low, so cone 6 is about the best you can expect in the long term. I have 2 of those in the community studio, and they typically take 14-16 hours to reach cone 6. When things start dragging to 18 or 19 hours, I know it is about time for new elements. As for a firing schedule, we usually run it with all 3 switches on low for an hour, then medium for an hour, and finally turn all up to high until the sitter drops. Note that sitters can
  4. Welcome to the ceramics zoo, glad to have you join us. We need a bit more information about the electrical specifications of the kiln. These should be on a metal plate attached to the front of the control column, usually near the kiln sitter. Specifically, what is the rated voltage and phase of the kiln? For voltage, there are 2 possibilities - 208 volts and 240 volts. For the phase, again 2 possibilities - single phase (probably shown as 1 PH) and three-phase (probably shown as 3 PH). There will also be numbers for the wattage and amperage, but the voltage and phase will tell us enough t
  5. If it were me, I would use the strongest cone 10 clay I can find - which would be Soldate 60. But that's just my opinion.
  6. Mark, my bad halfway... looking at the label on mine now, it is 115V DC, not 90, 1/2HP, 5 amps.
  7. Diamond sanding pads of increasing grit number can smooth the roughness of the fired bare ceramic edges. Be careful that you don't scrape into the glaze - the diamond will scratch it.
  8. Not so much about the initial question (replacing the pedal pot) but regarding the later comments about motors and voltage - dunno about what Brent was doing back when the earth was still flat, but I believe Brent motors now are 90v DC. The controller rectifies whatever design input of local AC voltage and the pedal pot instructs the controller to increase/decrease the DC voltage to the motor to make it go faster or slower.
  9. Steph, we were all new to ceramics at one point and we are all still learning something new every day. Regarding the concept of cones and temperature, they are not the same. Temperature is a measurement of an absolute thermal condition at a single point in time. Cones measure heatwork, which is pottery-talk for heat penetration into the core of the ceramic body to achieve proper vitrification and bond between the glaze and ceramic. It can be quantified by the heating rate (time and temperature increase) over the last 100℃ of the firing. If the kiln was firing at a medium rate of increase (60℃/
  10. The vitraglaze sales page indicates this is a cone 6 to 9 glaze. Are you certain you fired to cone 6 as shown by witness cones on the shelf of your firing, or just that you think it was 1220C which under the proper circumstances with an accurate thermocouple should have been cone 6. You are firing at the minimum specified temperature/cone, so any underfiring will come out rough like that. Also, interiors of mugs and closed forms tend to be cooler than the exterior.
  11. Ok, not getting any hits on that name either, but you've already been there done that. Next picture request - a clearer view of the knobs on the left side of the control tower. In lieu of an original owners manual, we may have to give you generic instructions based on how such controls typically work. Also, is there a Dawson Kiln Sitter on this kiln?
  12. Is there an electrical rating plate attached to the side of the control box? If so, show a picture of that.
  13. Looked it up, E1 is <12℉/hr over 22.5 minutes, or less than 4.5 degrees total increase in that period. In my experience, yes, either the elements are done (or one of them is failed and the others can't take up the slack) or a relay is stuck open causing the same effect as if that element is broken and the rest can't take up the slack. The TC didn't do that, it just reports reality. Thanks, you guys keep me sane in an insane world.
  14. Thanks Bill and Neil, your interpretations are consistent with the logical construction of my non-engineer's mind. Failure through corrosion or breakage into an open circuit (or a wiring fault) will produce the FAIL error, but that's an all or nothing proposition. Drift as a failure condition is an overall shift of the voltage pattern, but the output will still vary proportional to temperature and would simply cause an inaccurate firing that should be detectable by using witness cones. And weird flutter could send the controller on a joy ride, with no particular error code. But these were clai
  15. This is a technical question about thermocouples for the collective expertise of the excellent hive mind we have here. Is it possible/likely that a thermocouple will fail by outputting a steady unchanging voltage regardless of a change in actual temperature? As an example, a kiln is firing in an ramp up segment to, let's say just for the purpose of the discussion, 2200℉. The current firing status is at 2000℉. The thermocouple outputs xyz micro-milli-volts (whatever, not going to look it up, exact number is not the question) which the controller correctly interprets as 2000℉, and because it is
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