Babs

per Standard Clay
 

I don’t think the low fire firing will change it dimensionally a bunch. Can you repeat it but make a generous gallery so it will fit a wider range of opening?

Looks like one man's collection of other folk's glazes, prob no text book as such
Some are Bwenard Leach's , some are Val Cushings , you say they are your professor's so why not ask him?

Looks like one man's collection of other folk's glazes, prob no text book as such
Some are Bwenard Leach's , some are Val Cushings , you say they are your professor's so why not ask him?

Looks like one man's collection of other folk's glazes, prob no text book as such
Some are Bwenard Leach's , some are Val Cushings , you say they are your professor's so why not ask him?

Vivika simi matt is from Otto and Vivika Heno I think as I have thier glaze handout from a workshop years ago.The rest are unknown to me. Looks like one mans,womans glaze book collection he/she put together for a class

Looks like one man's collection of other folk's glazes, prob no text book as such
Some are Bwenard Leach's , some are Val Cushings , you say they are your professor's so why not ask him?

As a gas potter for 50 years I see the burner is pushed into the kiln  to far-needs to be away from kiln a bit and the air flaps are closed down to much (open them up)
these are the most obvious ,but kiln design and orifice size are also concerns -I can see the 1st two issues in your photos for sure so they are easy to fix.

Ifit was bisqued to a lower temp. it will take on more glaze if glazed as usual. Maybe test fire one glazed piece through a normal firing, place it on a clay biscuit to protect your shelf.

Ifit was bisqued to a lower temp. it will take on more glaze if glazed as usual. Maybe test fire one glazed piece through a normal firing, place it on a clay biscuit to protect your shelf.

As we have been drawn to working with our hands and clay i'd say our haptic sense is heightened. Certain pots will attract us, cupboard full of similar mugs, we'll find a favourite and seek it out.
Potting with eyes closed when centering and  pulling up clay can make our haptic sense reveal itself also.
It is cruel to go to an exhibition and be forbidden to pick up and touch the pots.
 

If the colour is the same in both (I'm guessing it is if you haven't noticed a difference) then put a drop of water on a piece that was for sure bisqued to 1860F and time how long it takes to soak into the clay. Repeat with the clay that was possibly only bisqued to 1200F and see if takes longer. You can also stick your tongue on both pieces, the lower fired one will stick more. (maybe don't do this in public)

Yeh well, aussie here, I built a vent above the stack and suspended a flue pipe  above the short stack with enough room to operate a damper. It reached up a few fluepipe lengths into the hood then to outside I was firing inside a shed so  needed to draw the fumes up into the hood a ways.
Fibre kiln. .fired fast up, (only used tge pilot lights for first couple of hours), and dropped down  very fast unless sorted.

Sounds for the best. The pointmade re electricity supply  and 3 phase is worth noting. Unless your property has 3 phase supply best to stick with single phase kilns imo.

Looks like the lid has not lifted on heating, at the hinge , and has crushed the bricks, putting the element at risk .
That's a pity. Any new element will be at risk unless those bricks and groove liners are replaced.
Better factor that into the price you are willing to pay.

Think the bottom element hasn't been replaced at same time as others, looks older and poss faulty. Can it be plugged i n and switched on at full for 15mins to find out if they all fire up.
Could be up for new elements too.
 

Sounds for the best. The pointmade re electricity supply  and 3 phase is worth noting. Unless your property has 3 phase supply best to stick with single phase kilns imo.

This thread is bounced off this one that was discussing extruders then went off on a bit of a tangent. I brought up the subject of thrown handles as another alternative for @Pyewackette . (other options such as cast, press molded etc in the linked thread also)
Super quick demo photos below, hope this helps Pye.
Throw a donut on a batt, for mug handles that need to be straight use as big a batt as you have or throw on the wheelhead if it's wider than your batts. Center the clay then open it up right down to the batt.  While throwing the donut press down firmly on the clay as you are pulling it outwards from center. 
Clean up the edges of the donut and shape into a dome top, flat, ridged, whatever profile you need. Can use  rib made from an old credit/gift card to make identical profiles for the donuts if making a lot of one style that need to be the same.
Cut into the donut with a pintool then slowly rotate the wheel to cut the donut off.
At this point you can either let the donut set up a bit or work it now. Cut off a section and either hold it up and smooth the  cut edge or let the sections dry a little then lay them facedown and smooth the cut edge. 
For mug handles pull them straight and let them hang until they are dry enough to attach. 
   
   

A filament from a wire brush may serve.
The tip can be sharpened/dulled as required (my guess would be dulled, against poking oneself!), the other end attached to a stick or somewhat, for finding...

Glad you told us you were downsizing and slowing down!!! 
Inspirational!

Is your applicator already blocked?
What kind of wax are you using?
Most applicators come with a very fine wire which is inserted after use.

Thanks for your input.  I think I will just put pieces on a back shelf for now. Then I might try the "rough look" that Babs suggested.  For now I will hustle and try to throw some new pieces. If I am lucky I can take new stuff out of the kiln the day of the show.

What temp/ cone does your clay fully vitrify?
Unglazed, rough folk seem to like these days.
Could brush and wipe an oxide wash and refire the stuff, to top temp recommended,  suited to that.

What temp/ cone does your clay fully vitrify?
Unglazed, rough folk seem to like these days.
Could brush and wipe an oxide wash and refire the stuff, to top temp recommended,  suited to that.

Might not be worth the work and extra time it takes to glaze mature clay, especially if your only option is to dip it. If you can, decant some of the water from the buckets so it's a bit thicker, that will help, as will warming the pots up to about 200F then dip. If not the just put the pots aside and move on, I know that can be easier said than done.