Roberta12
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Posts posted by Roberta12
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@irenepots Like you I usually use the slow bisque program, but I have used fast bisque at times (deadlines!) and I have noticed no difference as far as glazing. That includes porcelain, dark brown clay and speckled clay. That is simply my experience.
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@hlipper I have the same kiln. I have more than 900 firings on that beast. The absolute first thing I do to check is the paper test. I fold small strips of paper and insert in between the coils on the elements on each level. Then turn it on a fast glaze and see what burns and what doesn't. If it's just one section, it could be a relay. If it's all sections, could be old elements. But I also check the elements closely to see if a smidgen of glaze got in there and caused things to burn out. But we also get the multimeter out and do that testing. How many firings on your elements? I am also a BIG believer in a kiln log. I write down every single firing and every single repair. If you want a copy of mine, dm me and I will send it.
Roberta
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The art teacher in the Elementary school where I was working had a wheel stuffed under some storage tubs in her storage closet. I told her I was thinking of setting up a home studio, since the last child had left home and I had a room that could be turned into a studio. She said, "here, take this and use it for the rest of the school year. You can decide if it would be a workable situation for you!" I did. It was. After a month, I returned her wheel and bought my Brent C. I also transported work to be fired for a time, but then we built a shop for the kiln and glazing supplies and shared space with my husband for his woodworking. The Wheel came first.
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@Fromphyl I had picture #2 experience the first time I fired bmix with speckles. I fired to cone 6. Which turns out was probably hotter. Closer to 7. But...I called Laguna and they said that clay is definitely a cone 5 clay. I told him it looked like chicken pox or pimples. And he said it was overfired. My bumps/blisters were with 2 different glazes. I now fire to cone 5 with that clay, and so far have only used clear glaze on it and no blisters. I even did a refire and it was fine. Were all the cups in the same place in the kiln? I ask because I now know that my top shelf is a lot cooler than the rest of the kiln.
Roberta
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I use cornstarch. Some use wd40 (I don't like the smell) and some use spray veg oil. Some people use a smooth cloth between bowl and clay.
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I just mixed Joe Thompson's flux. Jury is still deliberating. I will find my test tiles and post a pic later. And seriously, I have a customer who is wanting a purple, blue, green runny combo. I have mixed and tested and combined this summer and not finding quite what I want. I have even bought/borrowed some commercial PC glazes. And just not getting what she wants. Any advice would be appreciated. @JohnnyK what say you??
The purples I have mixed are fairly matte. Not runny, drippy. She didn't care for Smokey Merlot
Roberta
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I took a 3 day workshop from Matt Katz in May. It was great and I left wishing for more more more. A big plus was coming away with a bare bones working knowledge of glazy.org. That was very helpful. I may sign up for one of his classes later, I just knew I didn't have the time right now to do so. I have enjoyed John Britt's book also. And because I now know how to analyze the UMF and other info on glazy.org, I can take some of the recipes in John's book and look at them on Glazy with fresh eye. I have heard of Sue and it seems like any of the sources would be helpful.
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I had a problem with wasps building a mud nest in my vent fan. Cleaned it out and everything was fine!
- Hulk and karenkstudio
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@Valarie Yes, lots of possibilities with underglaze and transfers. As @Bill Kielbsuggested, it might be easier to bisque your underglazed pieces first then apply the transfers, but you can try it any ol way. I have also put underglaze on leather (or even bone dry) pots and then put transfers over the underglaze. The bone dry pots absorb the underglaze quickly and then it make it easy to apply the transfers. Happy surface decorating!
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@Lucybeaumont Congratulations for being a problem solver!! You will become more and more confident in your ability to repair and maintain your kiln as time goes on. And if you get stuck, and it's after hours and you can't contact Skutt, these people on the forum are amazing! @oldlady was very correct when she commented on the average electrician not knowing much about kilns. By contacting a potter friend and the forum, you were able to get the job done. Happy potting!
Roberta
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Hi @Cindy P Welcome to the forum. Could you post a picture of your piece with the bumps? Can I ask why you are pre firing a glaze?
Roberta
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That sounds terrible! I do not have a Skutt. But I have used them. I did not find them to be noisier than Brent or other wheels. Since it is new and under warranty, Call Skutt. ASAP. That is a big purchase and it could be something simple or they may need to repair or replace something. You said you are new to pottery. Welcome to our forum. I have had forum voices in my head for several years!
Something I have learned to do is directly contact the company. The Wheel company, the kiln company, the clay company, the glaze company, the dry material supplier, the extruder company, whatever it is. In general they are very helpful and want to see you succeed and become a repeat customer.
Roberta
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I agree with @Bill Kielb about the crazing being a weak area. And I agree with everyone that mentioned Bmix 5 not being the best clay choice. If you can find something off white or buff with grog in it, that might reduce some errors. Anytime I have tried to put a "notch" in a flat piece, it seems to give me a weak area for cracking. I am able to get an off white clay (Laguna) via Denver that is groggy and truly bullet proof. Very forgiving. If you can find something of that nature, you might be able to execute that design which I LOVE btw! clever idea!
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Thanks to all for the good advice. I had a customer ask for "drippy" glazes. She was not in a hurry so I have spent a bit of time testing this summer. What @neilestrick and @Bill Kielb mentioned about titanium seems to ring true with this summers test o fest. One combo that was a knock out was Selsor Temmoku with Strontium Crystal Magic over. Gorgeous. Right now I am trying to find a purple that will meld (run, drip) with blue and green. And with Blues and greens that I have or at least have confidence in.
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recipe for kiln wash
50% alumina hydrate
25% Edgar Plastic Kaolin EPK
25% calcined Edgar Plastic Kaolin EPK
I use this recipe. I got it from someone here on the forum. It is a great recipe. However, I do not put the wash on my shelves. I put it on cookies that I put under my pots. The community studio where I first started working had a horrible mess with kiln wash. Flaking all over everything and everyone's pots. When I got my own kiln, I didn't want that mess. So I just use cookies. But....if I were so inclined to wash the shelves, I would use the recipe above that @oldlady posted.
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On 8/5/2022 at 4:29 PM, neilestrick said:
Some underglazes don't take dipping glazes very well unless you bisque fire them before glazing. Speedball underglazes are like that. If it looked like your glaze covered well when you applied it, then things will be fine unless you fired too fast for your clay and glazes liking. The problem is that if you go too fast, the glaze starts to melt before there has been sufficient time for the organics to burn out of the clay, and those gasses can get trapped in the clay and cause bubbling.
Neil, do you use underglaze on just greenware or sometimes on Bisque? If on bisque, do you refire once you put underglaze on?
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1 hour ago, neilestrick said:
Output 4 has 3 different settings, depending on what you are using it for. In standard kilns it's not hookup up to anything, so it doesn't serve any purpose and won't have any affect on your firings if nothing is wired to it.
Do you think I must have chose Op 4 when I was trying to do something else on the hidden menu? Would that account for it?
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26 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said:
Most kilns don’t come with an automatic vent fan. This is a standard Bartlett control board and if a floor or lid element was present Pct option would likely be set. Actually most kilns I have seen just include the bottom element on the #3 output or zone 3. Anyway, it would be good to get the default options from L&L just in case ……. Your setup definitely could contain some L&L. Nuances.
For now, if you currently physically turn your fan on by hand now, entering it as off during varyfire should not make a difference.
Yes, 11 years of turning on the vent fan as a separate operation. It was just a surprise to see that Fan 1 off Fan 2 off pop up.
I thought about resetting, but didn't know what else I might wipe out. I have 2 vary fire programs that I use. One is the bottle slumping program and one is for roasting ravenscrag or alberta slip. They would be easy to reprogram.
Thanks Bill.
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26 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said:
You can try setting to option A in the hidden menu which should start it at the beginning of firing and end operation on completion. The hidden menu here: https://binst.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/manual/asset_path/36/v6cftechnicalmanual.pdf
since I believe you do not have a fan connected to it, off would be the correct answer.
That is the root of my confusion. I have a vent fan. but as far as I know, not a "powered bottom" which sounds like something different. Hotkilns had a video about the hidden menu. And, I have a vague memory of getting into the hidden menu last fall when I was having kiln issues. Perhaps I chose something then I shouldn't have. The Manual says specifically DO NOT PRESS ENTER HERE with Option A or Option B. Those options are not used with L&L kilns. Thanks Bill. That is a great link, by the way. It explains things well.
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Once a year I use a Vary Fire program for a couple of loads of slumped bottles. I have the kiln loaded, chose Vary Fire 2, ran it through review to make certain all my ramps and holds were there and suddenly there is a new display message in between some of the ramps and holds. Fan 1 off Fan 2 off Fan 3 off Fan 4 off. I found the FAN in the display messages of the manual. It refers to a "powered bottom" which I do not believe I have. And says it only appears after OP C has been chosen on the option menu. Should I go to Option C and somehow turn it off????
Thanks,
Roberta
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I have done a version of that. Rather like @Babs Things that are definitely usable, have life left in them. I think my neighbor and I are going to plan an art drop. He's a photographer. We want to see if we can get other local artists to do it, just for fun.
- Pres, Callie Beller Diesel, Min and 1 other
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@GEP you knocked it out of the park, Slugger! I know I have told you before, but I will say it again. You are often the voice in my head when I am prepping for a show, checking out a new venue, etc. And yes, Mea, I even quote you to others! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all.
Roberta
Becoming an LLC
in Business, Marketing, and Accounting
Posted
@DMCosta Everyone has given great advice. I did my LLC myself, online, through the State Dept of Revenue site. But I am in Colorado and I have found all of that differs from state to state. I have yet to find an accountant or even a bookkeeper (in our area) that understands the numerous income streams that we can potentially have. Shows, commission, space rent, studio sales, wholesale, and then of course the over 200 different tax rates in this state and determining which cities are home rule, self collecting. As was suggested, find someone who can give you accurate advice for your state and area. Good Luck!
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