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Valarie

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  1. Thank you, I might give it a try.
  2. Valarie

    reglaze

  3. I glazed a flower pot with Amaco PC 12 blue midnight , it came out a muddy greenish brown color. The instructions said the coats need to be heavy, I put 3 heavy coats on the top portion ,but I guess they weren't heavy enough. Can I reglaze this and get the blue to come out more? Another project also came out darker then I anticipated ,is it possible to re glaze over the darker glaze with a lighter glaze color?
  4. I had read that using a cone higher in an older kiln would ensure that it fired to right temp without it shutting off to soon. I also was looking at different glaze schedules and saw that a "soak " was suggested at the end of the firing. Some of the bottoms are glazed and others are not. Thanks , I will try a test run first. Just a few pics of pieces going in for glaze . Thank you
  5. I had read that using a cone higher in an older kiln would ensure that it fired to right temp without it shutting off to soon. I also was looking at different glaze schedules and saw that a "soak " was suggested at the end of the firing. Some of the bottoms are glazed and others are not. Thanks , I will try a test run first. Just a few pics of pieces going in for glaze .
  6. I had read that using a cone higher in an older kiln would ensure that it fired to right temp without it shutting off to soon. I also was looking at different glaze schedules and saw that a "soak " was suggested at the end of the firing. Some of the bottoms are glazed and others are not.
  7. I will be doing my first cone 6 glaze firing soon. I have an old Duncan es820-2 teacher kiln that so far has worked well . My question is that I did not put wax resist on the bottom of my pieces and now I am concerned that if I set them on stilts ,they could possibly droop or slump? I am also considering using a cone 7 in the kiln sitter so that I can hold the temperature longer (soak )for the cone 6 glazes. Any suggestions?
  8. So the kiln is lead free!! I tested the kiln brick and a fired piece with the 3M swabs and both were clean. I am very relieved. My kiln is old but I really like using it and each firing is improving. Thanks to everyone for the feedback.
  9. I looked at the 3M swabs you suggested. They can be used directly onto the firebrick in the kiln? Do you need to scrap the brick at all before testing?
  10. I was hoping that ,someone can clear up a recent issue ,I just read about . Can an older kiln retain lead from lead based glazes in the firebrick that were used in it previously? I have an older Duncan Teacher Plus ? I really never saw this mentioned before, I am worried that my kiln could be contaminated. Thanks
  11. Thanks, the temp was 726 ,I had lowered the temp ,becsuse I thought it was ramping up to quickly.I have a Duncan ES820-2 kiln.It is older but I have done 2 bisque firings and one 05 glaze firing with no issue.The only differences this time is I had a heavily packed kiln with 2 and half shelves .So there were 2 pots close to the lid top.It is also very windy outside and we have 500cfm vent system blowing out from the basement and another smaller exhaust as well in an open window .We thought the wind was possibley pushing the fumes back into the basement.
  12. I had to shut down my 05 glaze firing after only 2 hrs,due to a ventilation issue. Can I restart this glaze firing? How much damage did shutting the kiln down to soon have done ,to my pieces? Thanks any help would be appreciated.
  13. I recently just did my first glaze firing in my Duncan ES820-2 and it took quite longer than it should. I was constantly monitoring the temp and think I over adjusted (firing took 11 hrs.) . In a perfect world should the top and bottom be set to the same settings at all times? I adjusted them according to the pyrometer (which was in the top peep hole). Once I set it to HI-FIRE it shut off in about 45 mins.The firing came out pretty well, so I don't think I botched it to badly. All of the pieces survived and the glaze looks ok. The top witness cones did not melt as fully as the bottom shelf. Would you suggest using a cone higher bar in the kiln sitter? I have read it's done because it's so close to the brick and the desired cone isn't actually reached long enough . I am going to follow your kiln setting on my next bisque firing as well. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
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