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About karenkstudio

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  1. I built a portable wood fired Raku kiln using a trash can, and also experimented with a bisque firing using the same kiln. It was successful only because I slowly brought the kiln up to an appropriate temperature for clay formulated to be used for raku. A picture of the kiln with the bisque pieces is attached. To bisque fire in this type of kiln would take some experimentation.
  2. Hobby stores sell something called adjustable rings with pads. You glue your design to the pad. (I thought about it but never followed through.) I've experimented with making small pieces for jewelry more durable. I coated several beads with epoxy glue (the clear drying type) and they looked fine, however I never used them in any projects.
  3. About a year ago I attended a workshop with an artists that used air dry clay. The product she used was Polyform Clay. It did not shrink and it can be applied over in thin sheets over a well formed armature. I used aluminum foil over wire as my armture to make a couple of birds. Other artists at the workshop used small bottles and cups for their armatures. I finished mine with acrylic paint. Some day I may try this again however for now I'll stick with Raku.
  4. found the picture of the nova kiln.
  5. I posted the picture of the NOVA kiln. There is no way to gradually turn up the temperature. It's the type of kiln that is plugged into a regular outlet, and was probably intended for glass fusing and china painting. I only use it reheat pieces for horsehair raku and like the fact that the elements are covered. I use a sight cone system to determine temp. I don't think it would be practical for bisque. I've never glazed anything in this kiln. Mine only cost $25 so I thought it would worth having for some of my experiments. The picture of the kiln is in my gallery.
  6. try this in a web search: www.marianwilliamspottery.com/2012/11/20/i-love-it-stefan-jakobs-raku-kiln-building-workshop/ I built a version of this using a trash can.
  7. Johnny, My system for raku firing is the same each time. Can and materials are the same each time for reduction. I've used this system 50+ times, of course with varying results when using the copper glaze, and plan to check humidity % during summer months when firing. I enjoy Raku because of the many surprises the process creates. If I don't like the results I just reglaze.
  8. The results for raku firing always very, and I've heard that humidity effects results. During my last 2 firings I noted the humidity % and noticed a difference with the copper glaze results. At 80% humidity my pieces were an iridescent green with a little copper color. At 50% humidity they were copper with a few other iridescent colors. Has anyone else noticed this specific anomaly?
  9. Definition question.... What do you think of when clay items are described as ceramics, while other items are described as pottery? How many clay artists prefer one definition over the other when describing their work?
  10. Is terra sig available commercially? I have made some small batches that were ok.
  11. Lady, I think that thingy is a part from a transmission, but I'm not sure. I dry my pieces by sandwiching them between plaster slabs.
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