dhPotter

@Jaynieliz I too single fire. There are 2 times when you can glaze. At leatherhard stage or absolutely bone dry. I glaze at bone dry stage. After the piece is made and it is sitting around to dry I leave them alone for at least 2 weeks past my perception of the piece being dry. I used to get spilt rims on mugs. The clay was not absolutely, beyond a doubt bone dry. Now that I have an extended drying period no more split rims.

Neph Sy has a lot less Silica than Minspar 200. Try using Minspar 200 for F4

If you are out of F4, use Minspar 200 instead of subbing with Neph Sy.

@Rick Wise Yep that is Pete Pinnell's Strontium Matte. If I tested this it was 12 years ago. I use Pete's Seafoam glaze all the time - it looks a lot like your picture, but it is a different glaze than the Strontium Matte. BTW try your glaze over Strontium Crystal Matte Cool - a very reactive glaze - you will get some exciting results - watch out for the thickness of the SCMC - things will run if to thick. Here are some colorants I have in my notes for Pete's Strontium Matte. copper carb - 5; titanium dioxide - 5 copper carb - 0.5; titanium dioxide - 0.5 copper carb - 6; rutil

@Bam2015 As you can see my floor, and everything else, is not as clean as Min When I sit down the top of the seat is even with the top of the splash pan. I like this position because my hips and knees are nearly in a stand up position. I can lean my shoulders and upper body over the clay for centering. When leaning over the wheel and looking down at the wheel my eyes are looking about 1 inch past the wheel's center.

@Roberta12 Yes the cinder blocks are sturdy - I have 1 under each leg of my Brent C. Also have a half block, 4 inches instead of 8 inches under my Left foot with a 2 inch paver under the Right foot which also has the foot pedal. I had hip replacement on my Right side 5 years ago - one of the best surgeries I ever had. I have one of those Speed Ball potters chairs that I replaced the pneumatic tube with a bar stool height tube. When sitting at the wheel my legs are almost straight.

My ^6 glaze firing normally takes 18 hours. The firing schedule has a 5 hour down fire programmed.

@Algoessailing Searching for Clear will get you transparency glazes. Also look at digitalfire.com for clear glazes.

email your photo to yourself - this is what makes the size smaller - then post the emailed pic to this forum.

I never wedge. Never. Don't know about the science behind the slamming. I just know the results of slamming is softer clay to work with. I slam the clay, cut off what I want then cone wedge on the wheel. Laziness is not part of a potter's make up. You will find out if you keep at it. There are no short cuts in pottery.

@Rick WiseSeems like you and I are in the same boat - hobby potter. First thing I do is take the clay out of the box. If the bag has a rubber band, I tie it up really tight - if no band I put a rubber band on the bag. Next is to put the bags in a big plastic garbage can that has a garbage can bag in it. I cover the top with 2 pieces of plastic before putting the garbage can lid on. This has worked out for several years. I usually buy about 500 pounds that may last nearly a year. Don't forget to slam the bag on the concrete, on all sides, before using the bag of clay. If I don't use the w

Use you white glaze and add small increments of Mason stain 6600. I use 0.3% added to my white to get a very nice light gray liner.

The way I understand Specific Gravity, it is measuring the amount of material suspended in the water. If you take the SG prior to the "flocking" are you absolutely sure all material is suspended in the water? After "flocking", the material is suspended in the water and would give a better SG reading .