dhPotter

@Stephen When I cut metal roofing or plastic I turn the blade around so that the teeth are running backwards. Saves the blade. You might try this for the cement board.

He is my kiln shelf/ post cart, plywood, 2x4's, on wheels.

@Babs it is a a glossy, light pinkish color. It is a runner. Crazed pretty badly on my Standard 630 clay.

@Mark C.Perhaps it would be best if you were to read OldLady's byline and adhere to it...

Here is a really good recipe and application for wash... http://jeffcampana.com/self-leveling-kiln-wash/

@Hulk what is the Red splotch on the side of the round belly vase ?

I would stop table wedging completely. I have not wedge clay in years. Straight from the bag to the wheel and cone wedge 3 times like you do.

Me too! Robin Hopper does this also, he has a sponge in his Left hand while turning up the donut.

@Roberta12 I added 5% Magnesium Carb to the Selsor Temmuko. It creates a nice gold micro crystal - looks out of this world in sunlight.

@nancylee For amounts of clay you are talking about, I pat the clay, as the wheel slowly turns, into a semi-centered mound. Then I place both hands on the opposite side of the mound and as I increase the speed of he wheel, pull the mound towards my body. This gets the mound closer to centered, but I don't worry about perfect at this time. Now I cone the clay 3 times, after each cone try to place your hands in your centering position and hold till the mound gets closer to centered. By the 3rd cone everything should be aligned and centered. I had read where Marcia Selsor likes to have the chair she sits in be positioned so when she looks down at the wheel she is looking about 1 inch beyond the center of the wheel. This has helped greatly. Try to lay your weight on the mound with your shoulders well over the mound. I usually end up with clay on my chest from hugging the mound.

To get the light coloring effect try Watercolor blue or Watercolor green. Use a thin application.

Try to sell your pieces in person. This changed my mind from ever judging glaze results. I, like you and nearly every other potter, have a "look" you think should come out of the kiln. When it doesn't we are disappointed. But, I guarantee, there is a person who will come along and love what you have done. This has happened more than occasional. If you think it is ugly there is someone who thinks it is equally beautiful. People will buy that funky stuff because it is original and one-of-a-kind. Unique is what they seek. Smile as you wrap their purchase and stuff your pockets full. Success makes all of your second guessing go away. Try not to guess what the buying public thinks about your glaze results. The mob is fickle.

I also have a base white liner that has made 3 other liner colors. On Tony Hansen's website is the chemical analysis of Butterscotch I used to back into the glaze recipe, with the help of glaze software - this is now 1 of my favorites. From MC6 - Licorice, Raw Sienna and Waterfall Brown which pairs very well with Butterscotch. From Britt's ^6 book - Bailey's Red 2 and Val's Turquoise. From Steven Hill's Spraying glaze workshop - Red Orange, strontium crystal magic cool and warm, Juicy fruit Cool, SH Copper Ash and Hannah's Fake Ash Iron. From the internet - Hsin Matte Black, Pete's Seafoam, Satin Matte Green, Shatz Blue Matte, Silky Matte Z Blue - this is Tony Hansen's G1214Z, Marcia Selsor's Turquoise Satin Matte. Actually do use all of these glazes. I go thru stages of using 3-6 in various overlaps and combos. I spray glaze. Do not have a clear glaze but don't want one either after reading about all the bubbles and other problems here on the forum. @Hulk you are a brave person with Kitten's Clear - this glaze crazed horribly bad for me. We did use this in school layered with a Floating blue, did some really neat stuff.

It may be legally OK. But there are moral, ethical and honorable issues at play. Because the law says it is OK does not allow me to forget the author requested I not distribute the document without the author's permission. I was wrong in mentioning I had the document.

The cone that was used in the sitter claw, is it bent 90 degrees? If not you need to calibrate the sitter. Plenty of info and videos on the interweb telling you how.