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dhPotter

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About dhPotter

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Duck Hill, MS
  • Interests
    Deer and Turkey hunting(we eat deer through out the year), Cooking(I am the cook), Football(watching), Observing Nature

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  1. Doc, use Play Sand from the hardware store. Spread it out under the platter. I set the platter where I want it be on the kiln shelf then, with a pencil, draw an outline around the foot, then put sand within the outline. Vacuum or sweep the sand up after you have pulled the platter from the glaze firing. Like OldLady, I also single fire platters this way.
  2. Laguna 609 #65. I can't tell the difference between the 609 clay and Laguna 617 #16 porcelain after glaze firing.
  3. In your glaze firing, have you tried placing sand under the platters to reduce drag on the kiln shelf?
  4. Orton VentMaster is the vent. The vent stays on till I open the kiln to remove wares at around 150*F - 250*F. Remember, Starting at segment 3, the firing schedule is just another glaze fire schedule. The down firing and holding is to encourage crystal growth. The schedule is basically Stephen Hill's firing schedule. Panama Blue, Selsor Chun and Kitten's Clear come to mind as crazing. I don't glaze calculate - I use recipes from those books and Tony Hansen's website. I do have and use DigitalFire glaze software. Take a look at the Evolution album in my gallery. In some of the comments I mention what glazes are being used.
  5. Not sure if this will be relevant to your case - I have been using Laguna 609 #65 for about 3 years now. BUT, I single fire and use my own glazes and do not get pinholes. My firing schedule goes slow in the first 500* because of single firing. Then goes at 400* per hour. At 2050*F the ramp slows to 108* per hour till 2185* for a 15 minute hold. Then free fall to 2085* for a 20 minute hold. The changing to 2050*F to a slower speed going up and the hold at 100* less than peak temp on the way down are supposed to get rid of any pinholes. Again I do not have pinholes. Try single firing. I use glazes found in John Britt's cone 6 glaze book and from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes book. Glaze cone 6... Segment Rate F*/HR Temp Hold 1 200 220 30-60 2 100 500 0 3 400 2050 0 4 108 2185^ 15 5 9999 2085 20 6 9999 1700 0 7 50 1600 60 8 50 1500 0
  6. SCM is a glaze runner for me. Pete's Seafoam over cool, Val's Turquoise over cool, Tony Hansen's G1214Z base with 6% rutile, 3% copper carb and 1.5% cobalt carb over cool - all of these will run pretty good - testing will determine how much to apply - it will run. I have a Butterscotch that runs if over Warm. I wonder if the firing schedule might influence the amount of running?
  7. Pete's Seafoam needs sieving before each glaze session. I get the same little hard balls. Shawnhar they will not go thru a 100# mesh. My glazes sat for 6 weeks before yesterday's session. I sieved the glaze, using 100 mesh, and the balls appeared. This happens everytime if glazes sit up. I took a 1/2 cup of glaze and mixed the little balls into it. Then into the microwave for 45 seconds on high, thinking they would dissolve - they did not. I am thinking it is the Strontium Carb doing this. I have not a solution for the problem. Pete's Seafoam Ferro Frit 3134............. 9.60 F-4 Feldspar................ 51.30 Strontium Carbonate......... 25.50 EP Kaolin................... 12.00 Copper Carbonate............ 5.00 Titanium Dioxide............ 5.00 Glaze Jelly................. 3.00 ========= 111.40
  8. Laguna 609 is a very nice white firing clay. Easy to throw and do slab work. Has a strength to it while throwing. Push the clay where you want it, it has a little push back so you have a feel for it instead of being mush that gets pushed around with no feedback. Easily attaches with no issues of pulling apart. Smooth clay.
  9. +1 what liambesaw said. I have a 1979 Brent I bought new. Still has all original equipment including the belt. Give it a good try before investing in parts. An old saying "Don't look for problems, they will find you soon enough"
  10. Personally I don't think you need to wedge at all. I haven't wedged any clay in 3 years. Cut from the bag of clay, pound it into a ball, trying not to add pockets of air. I diligently cone wedge each ball at least 3 times not what size the ball of clay. Perhaps wedging is held over from when potters mixed their own clay bodies and did not have de-airing pugmills.
  11. What thickness of Medex are y'all using for the batt? I see it available as 1/4" to 1 1/4" thick.
  12. @DirtRoadsDadgum Sharon. I was there and looked for you. Where were you? We parked at the Methodist church and walked to the square where everyone, I thought, was. I saw Hinkle Creek Pottery in the parking area around the square. We got there at 7:30 and stayed till 9:30 - too much rain and wind. And yes, saw a couple of tents try to take flight, but it was 60 mph gusts! There were some customers there on a mission as there hands were full of bags. We had ponchos on and our pants legs and shoes were soaked. We did a lot of standing under store front awnings. Too much rain. Saw a river of muddy water flowing from the square down steps and into the flooded streets. I hate I missed you.
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