dhPotter

@HulkSpraying - You can do it !! Granted it took me 5 loads to figure out how thick to spray - that was before I saw OldLady's suggestion of spraying till the glaze looks like "Chunky Velvet" - works nearly every time. The SG on these sprayed glazes, for me, is around 150-155. Set your compressor for about 42 psi and when you pull the trigger the psi will be at 40 - perfect for my Critter spray gun. As far as keep mixing the glaze - fire you some 1 inch clay balls to maturity to make ball bearings - place 2-3 in the sprayer jar. As you spray, periodically swirl the ball bearings around to

Hey there @LC88 Fellow Mississippian I had dug some clay in Holmes county. This area is in the Yazoo River basin. The clay is white but fires to a reddish at cone1. The clay has an enormous amount of calcium. When fired to cone 6 it oozed calcium so much so that the piece looks like it has been glazed with a lava glaze. Both of these tests were single fired. It is plenty plastic on its own.

To center large amounts of clay I pat center for a long time. Then place both hands on the opposite side of the clay and gently pull toward you while slowly increasing the wheel speed. Now do your coning. The clay should be centered but may need a little coaxing into center. Assuming the wheel is spinning Counter clockwise - After opening the ball and compressing the bottom, place your left hand on the left side and your right hand on the clay directly in front of you with your fingers, I use my middle finger, at the bottom on the inside and your thumb reaching to the wheelhead. Find yo

This is what I am using now... Self-Leveling Kiln Wash - https://jeffcampana.com/self-leveling-kiln-wash/

@graybeard I prefer a place to park the lower lip. I like a slightly rolled rim using my thumbnail, being horizontal to the floor, on the outside and a finger to push the clay over the thumbnail, from the inside, to create a slight roll. This seems to help with dribbles, also.

The best method I have found for stirring small batches of glaze is the immersion blender. Use it, after scraping the bottom and scraping where the bottom and wall intersect, with a stiff spatula. My normal glaze batches are 1000g.

@2Relaxed I am in the same boat as you - I work full time during the day then go to the pottery for a few hours each evening. Testing glazes takes excruciatingly long! You have to be willing to fire the kiln with nothing but test tiles. I have a commission to make a 12 piece dinnerware set. I have to create the glaze color for the customer. The customer wants 1 color over the whole piece. So the glaze must be food safe. Testing started around June 22. After more than 100 test tiles, the testing is down to 4 glazes. The testing is past the test tile stage. Now I am test glazing on 1 poun

@2Relaxed regarding how much water to initially use - Mastering Cone 6 Glazes book suggest 3 ounces of water to every 100 g of dry material. This works out very well.

@Stephen When I cut metal roofing or plastic I turn the blade around so that the teeth are running backwards. Saves the blade. You might try this for the cement board.

He is my kiln shelf/ post cart, plywood, 2x4's, on wheels.

@Babs it is a a glossy, light pinkish color. It is a runner. Crazed pretty badly on my Standard 630 clay.

@Mark C.Perhaps it would be best if you were to read OldLady's byline and adhere to it...

Here is a really good recipe and application for wash... http://jeffcampana.com/self-leveling-kiln-wash/