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  • Location
    Duck Hill, MS
  • Interests
    Deer and Turkey hunting(we eat deer through out the year), Cooking(I am the cook), Football(watching), Observing Nature

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dhPotter's Achievements

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  1. @Roberta12 Not sure about the science. It is my guess to allow the heat to escape faster than letting the kiln cool on its own without help cooling. I leave the downdraft vent running until the peeps are removed. Sometimes I do as you do and let the kiln cool on its own down to 200*F leaving the downdraft vent on.
  2. When to Open the Kiln 1. When the kiln temperature falls to 600°F, open all the peep holes. 2. When the temperature reaches 450°F prop the lid 1 inch. 3. When the temperature reaches 350°F, the lid/door can be opened 3 or 4 inches. 4. When the temperature reaches 250°F you may completely open the kiln allowing it to finish cooling prior to unloading. 5. When the temperature hovers around 200°F the kiln can be unloaded.
  3. The sprayed glaze needs to have clay and/ or bentonite to help it stick to the pot. I never tried this but maybe a bit of brushing medium added to the glaze would help stick it to the pot.
  4. @thiamant your glaze looks a little thin. The pics show a really thick application and the result. Not all glazes will be chunky looking, some will smooth out and look watery. The trick is to know each glaze's characteristics when they are sprayed - test, test, test - and pay attention to what each glaze wants, thick or thin application. I use a Critter spray gun and 8 gallon compressor at 40 PSI. My glazes have a Specific Gravity between 1.45 - 1.57. I spray greenware. Spray in one spot till it gets wet then move on to the next spot. May need to do this 3-4 times on the whole pot with each time around getting shorter and shorter because of glaze thickness building up. I spray nearly everything upside down on a pedestal, especially mugs, cups, and bowls. Pour the liner in mugs and cups the day before. Spraying them upside down keeps the overspray from getting into the liner. For handled pieces spray the inside of the handle first being sure to give enough glaze coverage at the connection point on the bottom of the handle. Managing the overspray is difficult. With some glazes I wipe away, using a damp sponge, the overspray before spraying the next color. You can wipe away glaze on greenware without damaging the piece, like unwanted spills when pouring the liner.
  5. If it is that upsetting to you don't look at it or even think about it. Different strokes for different folks...If you have not had the pieces in your hand then you really don't know its functionality. Looking forward to seeing your sake warmer.
  6. @Jaynieliz I too single fire. There are 2 times when you can glaze. At leatherhard stage or absolutely bone dry. I glaze at bone dry stage. After the piece is made and it is sitting around to dry I leave them alone for at least 2 weeks past my perception of the piece being dry. I used to get spilt rims on mugs. The clay was not absolutely, beyond a doubt bone dry. Now that I have an extended drying period no more split rims.
  7. Neph Sy has a lot less Silica than Minspar 200. Try using Minspar 200 for F4
  8. If you are out of F4, use Minspar 200 instead of subbing with Neph Sy.
  9. @Rick Wise Yep that is Pete Pinnell's Strontium Matte. If I tested this it was 12 years ago. I use Pete's Seafoam glaze all the time - it looks a lot like your picture, but it is a different glaze than the Strontium Matte. BTW try your glaze over Strontium Crystal Matte Cool - a very reactive glaze - you will get some exciting results - watch out for the thickness of the SCMC - things will run if to thick. Here are some colorants I have in my notes for Pete's Strontium Matte. copper carb - 5; titanium dioxide - 5 copper carb - 0.5; titanium dioxide - 0.5 copper carb - 6; rutile - 4 cobalt carb - 1.5; rutile - 4; red iron oxide - 2
  10. @Bam2015 As you can see my floor, and everything else, is not as clean as Min When I sit down the top of the seat is even with the top of the splash pan. I like this position because my hips and knees are nearly in a stand up position. I can lean my shoulders and upper body over the clay for centering. When leaning over the wheel and looking down at the wheel my eyes are looking about 1 inch past the wheel's center.
  11. @Roberta12 Yes the cinder blocks are sturdy - I have 1 under each leg of my Brent C. Also have a half block, 4 inches instead of 8 inches under my Left foot with a 2 inch paver under the Right foot which also has the foot pedal. I had hip replacement on my Right side 5 years ago - one of the best surgeries I ever had. I have one of those Speed Ball potters chairs that I replaced the pneumatic tube with a bar stool height tube. When sitting at the wheel my legs are almost straight.
  12. My ^6 glaze firing normally takes 18 hours. The firing schedule has a 5 hour down fire programmed.
  13. @Algoessailing Searching for Clear will get you transparency glazes. Also look at digitalfire.com for clear glazes.
  14. email your photo to yourself - this is what makes the size smaller - then post the emailed pic to this forum.
  15. I never wedge. Never. Don't know about the science behind the slamming. I just know the results of slamming is softer clay to work with. I slam the clay, cut off what I want then cone wedge on the wheel. Laziness is not part of a potter's make up. You will find out if you keep at it. There are no short cuts in pottery.
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