Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dhPotter

  1. I never wedge. Never. Don't know about the science behind the slamming. I just know the results of slamming is softer clay to work with. I slam the clay, cut off what I want then cone wedge on the wheel. Laziness is not part of a potter's make up. You will find out if you keep at it. There are no short cuts in pottery.
  2. @Rick WiseSeems like you and I are in the same boat - hobby potter. First thing I do is take the clay out of the box. If the bag has a rubber band, I tie it up really tight - if no band I put a rubber band on the bag. Next is to put the bags in a big plastic garbage can that has a garbage can bag in it. I cover the top with 2 pieces of plastic before putting the garbage can lid on. This has worked out for several years. I usually buy about 500 pounds that may last nearly a year. Don't forget to slam the bag on the concrete, on all sides, before using the bag of clay. If I don't use the w
  3. Use you white glaze and add small increments of Mason stain 6600. I use 0.3% added to my white to get a very nice light gray liner.
  4. The way I understand Specific Gravity, it is measuring the amount of material suspended in the water. If you take the SG prior to the "flocking" are you absolutely sure all material is suspended in the water? After "flocking", the material is suspended in the water and would give a better SG reading .
  5. The customer wanted a very plain plate. Customer also wanted a tan with little to no rust breaking. It took well over 100 test tiles to develop. Then numerous plate firings to get the glaze application thickness just right. This glaze was developed by mixing a clear at 60% and a matte at 40%. The color was developed by adding 2% rutile, 2% tin oxide and 1.6% RIO. The glaze has some visual movement. This glaze is food safe with no cutlery marking. Cutlery dragged across the glaze has little to no sound. The glaze does not physically move when fired - stays where you put it.
  6. dhPotter


    The evolution from dipping to spraying. All of these pieces have new glazes. Learning new glazes and how they act and learning to spray glaze.
  7. Your linked to pictures look like glazes over Strontium Crystal Magic Cool. SCMC has both Lithium carb and titanium dioxide
  8. The 12 piece dinnerware collection.
  9. Thank You ! This piece was the first. Have tried to replicate that delicate curve. Even made a template. Nothing has equaled this original. The glaze is easy to replicate. 4 glazes on the outside.
  10. @HulkSpraying - You can do it !! Granted it took me 5 loads to figure out how thick to spray - that was before I saw OldLady's suggestion of spraying till the glaze looks like "Chunky Velvet" - works nearly every time. The SG on these sprayed glazes, for me, is around 150-155. Set your compressor for about 42 psi and when you pull the trigger the psi will be at 40 - perfect for my Critter spray gun. As far as keep mixing the glaze - fire you some 1 inch clay balls to maturity to make ball bearings - place 2-3 in the sprayer jar. As you spray, periodically swirl the ball bearings around to
  11. Hey there @LC88 Fellow Mississippian I had dug some clay in Holmes county. This area is in the Yazoo River basin. The clay is white but fires to a reddish at cone1. The clay has an enormous amount of calcium. When fired to cone 6 it oozed calcium so much so that the piece looks like it has been glazed with a lava glaze. Both of these tests were single fired. It is plenty plastic on its own.
  12. To center large amounts of clay I pat center for a long time. Then place both hands on the opposite side of the clay and gently pull toward you while slowly increasing the wheel speed. Now do your coning. The clay should be centered but may need a little coaxing into center. Assuming the wheel is spinning Counter clockwise - After opening the ball and compressing the bottom, place your left hand on the left side and your right hand on the clay directly in front of you with your fingers, I use my middle finger, at the bottom on the inside and your thumb reaching to the wheelhead. Find yo
  13. This is what I am using now... Self-Leveling Kiln Wash - https://jeffcampana.com/self-leveling-kiln-wash/
  14. @graybeard I prefer a place to park the lower lip. I like a slightly rolled rim using my thumbnail, being horizontal to the floor, on the outside and a finger to push the clay over the thumbnail, from the inside, to create a slight roll. This seems to help with dribbles, also.
  15. The best method I have found for stirring small batches of glaze is the immersion blender. Use it, after scraping the bottom and scraping where the bottom and wall intersect, with a stiff spatula. My normal glaze batches are 1000g.
  16. @2Relaxed I am in the same boat as you - I work full time during the day then go to the pottery for a few hours each evening. Testing glazes takes excruciatingly long! You have to be willing to fire the kiln with nothing but test tiles. I have a commission to make a 12 piece dinnerware set. I have to create the glaze color for the customer. The customer wants 1 color over the whole piece. So the glaze must be food safe. Testing started around June 22. After more than 100 test tiles, the testing is down to 4 glazes. The testing is past the test tile stage. Now I am test glazing on 1 poun
  17. @2Relaxed regarding how much water to initially use - Mastering Cone 6 Glazes book suggest 3 ounces of water to every 100 g of dry material. This works out very well.
  18. @Stephen When I cut metal roofing or plastic I turn the blade around so that the teeth are running backwards. Saves the blade. You might try this for the cement board.
  19. He is my kiln shelf/ post cart, plywood, 2x4's, on wheels.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.