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dhPotter

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  1. dhPotter

    Evolution

    The evolution from dipping to spraying. All of these pieces have new glazes. Learning new glazes and how they act and learning to spray glaze.
  2. This is what I am using now... Self-Leveling Kiln Wash - https://jeffcampana.com/self-leveling-kiln-wash/
  3. @graybeard I prefer a place to park the lower lip. I like a slightly rolled rim using my thumbnail, being horizontal to the floor, on the outside and a finger to push the clay over the thumbnail, from the inside, to create a slight roll. This seems to help with dribbles, also.
  4. The best method I have found for stirring small batches of glaze is the immersion blender. Use it, after scraping the bottom and scraping where the bottom and wall intersect, with a stiff spatula. My normal glaze batches are 1000g.
  5. @2Relaxed I am in the same boat as you - I work full time during the day then go to the pottery for a few hours each evening. Testing glazes takes excruciatingly long! You have to be willing to fire the kiln with nothing but test tiles. I have a commission to make a 12 piece dinnerware set. I have to create the glaze color for the customer. The customer wants 1 color over the whole piece. So the glaze must be food safe. Testing started around June 22. After more than 100 test tiles, the testing is down to 4 glazes. The testing is past the test tile stage. Now I am test glazing on 1 poun
  6. @2Relaxed regarding how much water to initially use - Mastering Cone 6 Glazes book suggest 3 ounces of water to every 100 g of dry material. This works out very well.
  7. @Stephen When I cut metal roofing or plastic I turn the blade around so that the teeth are running backwards. Saves the blade. You might try this for the cement board.
  8. He is my kiln shelf/ post cart, plywood, 2x4's, on wheels.
  9. @Babs it is a a glossy, light pinkish color. It is a runner. Crazed pretty badly on my Standard 630 clay.
  10. @Mark C.Perhaps it would be best if you were to read OldLady's byline and adhere to it...
  11. Here is a really good recipe and application for wash... http://jeffcampana.com/self-leveling-kiln-wash/
  12. @Hulk what is the Red splotch on the side of the round belly vase ?
  13. I would stop table wedging completely. I have not wedge clay in years. Straight from the bag to the wheel and cone wedge 3 times like you do.
  14. Me too! Robin Hopper does this also, he has a sponge in his Left hand while turning up the donut.
  15. @Roberta12 I added 5% Magnesium Carb to the Selsor Temmuko. It creates a nice gold micro crystal - looks out of this world in sunlight.
  16. @nancylee For amounts of clay you are talking about, I pat the clay, as the wheel slowly turns, into a semi-centered mound. Then I place both hands on the opposite side of the mound and as I increase the speed of he wheel, pull the mound towards my body. This gets the mound closer to centered, but I don't worry about perfect at this time. Now I cone the clay 3 times, after each cone try to place your hands in your centering position and hold till the mound gets closer to centered. By the 3rd cone everything should be aligned and centered. I had read where Marcia Selsor likes to have the c
  17. To get the light coloring effect try Watercolor blue or Watercolor green. Use a thin application.
  18. Try to sell your pieces in person. This changed my mind from ever judging glaze results. I, like you and nearly every other potter, have a "look" you think should come out of the kiln. When it doesn't we are disappointed. But, I guarantee, there is a person who will come along and love what you have done. This has happened more than occasional. If you think it is ugly there is someone who thinks it is equally beautiful. People will buy that funky stuff because it is original and one-of-a-kind. Unique is what they seek. Smile as you wrap their purchase and stuff your pockets full. Success makes
  19. I also have a base white liner that has made 3 other liner colors. On Tony Hansen's website is the chemical analysis of Butterscotch I used to back into the glaze recipe, with the help of glaze software - this is now 1 of my favorites. From MC6 - Licorice, Raw Sienna and Waterfall Brown which pairs very well with Butterscotch. From Britt's ^6 book - Bailey's Red 2 and Val's Turquoise. From Steven Hill's Spraying glaze workshop - Red Orange, strontium crystal magic cool and warm, Juicy fruit Cool, SH Copper Ash and Hannah's Fake Ash Iron. From the internet - Hsin Matte Black, Pete's Seafoam,
  20. It may be legally OK. But there are moral, ethical and honorable issues at play. Because the law says it is OK does not allow me to forget the author requested I not distribute the document without the author's permission. I was wrong in mentioning I had the document.
  21. The cone that was used in the sitter claw, is it bent 90 degrees? If not you need to calibrate the sitter. Plenty of info and videos on the interweb telling you how.
  22. @ChloeElizabeth I cannot share this document as it is copyrighted and I do not have direct permission to share the document. About your consistency issue - weigh all balls of clay, pull them up as far as you can. Do 10-12 balls at a sitting, each weighing the same amount. You will improve.
  23. I have it saved in a Word doc. It is copyrighted. Not sure how John Baymore feels about sharing this document. @LeeU find out if it is OK to share. Thanks
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