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Roberta12

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Posts posted by Roberta12

  1. Duncan makes some underglazes called Stroke and Coat that actually act like glaze.  So yes, they would stick together.  I have not had Amaco underglazes stick to the shelf or other pots but...they will sometimes leave an impression on the shelf or another piece if you are stacking.  So, I am careful with my stacking.  

    r.

  2. In my experience, a crack is a crack is a crack.  It will never be a "safe use" piece of pottery.    For  functional pieces like a mugs, I pitch them.    Depending on the customer, I have offered to replace it for half price or replace it completely or offered a discount.  It varies.  If the customer is someone who has supported me through the years, I have replaced.  It's really your call on how to handle that situation.   

    Roberta

  3. 19 hours ago, Mark C. said:

    For me watching videos or reading books would not have been enough to get me on my path that has made me a production potter for 5 decades . Those things are just ad ons to the real education I got at school from those who knew more in ceramics than most.Nothing beats the learning directly from teachers especially with throwing,glazing and firing. Maybe as a hobbist it will do fine but for a professional no way.My 2 cents 

    Junior collage can be done on the cheap these days

    I do agree Mark.  If you are looking to have a thriving business, an education is imperative, apprenticeship or something (unless you are a highly motivated person who is able to do it alone) however, if you live in the middle of nowhere without access to classes or education, you will need to find your clay community wherever you can.  That may be online, videos or books or whatever.  And workshops away from home can be great as well! 

  4. How to help out beginners stuck working alone with their processes?    What helped me the most (and still does) was to find a clay buddy.  Even if you can't connect in person,  connect via email, phone, text, whatever.  Simply having someone to bounce ideas around with!  And for me, books were a lifesaver.  All the great ones we have talked about here on the forum, whether it was Clary Illian or Val Cushing or Bill Van Gilder.  I would recommend a great reading list.  Then offer up some time for conversation and exploration.

    Roberta

  5. @Babs is correct, she is pointing you in the right direction.  It does seem that you are firing at too high of a temp for bisque.  Your clay is rated for much higher firing temps than the Cone 4 glaze you have.   You will have to have glazes and clay that match firing temps.  It takes a lot of research to understand this field.  

     I had to get most of my information from books from the library, books that I purchased, books that I borrowed, and then when more information became prevalent on the internet,  that became a source.   I am still always in search of more information. This is the beginning of a long and interesting journey for you.   Keep asking questions and this will begin to make sense. 

    Roberta

  6. That was interesting about the Syracuse china.  Maybe you could try one plate, with cone 5/6 glaze, place cookies or wasters under it, and just see what happens?   

    I have a few pieces of Duncan bisqueware that I was going to do that with.  But when I looked it up, that bisque ware is low fire.  I don't have any low fire glazes,  so they are still sitting in a box.  

    Could be a fun experiment?

    Roberta

  7. @MikkiNightCraft  This is out of the Mastering Cone Six book.   

    Glossy Clear

    G200 hp feldspar           20

    Ferro Frit 3134                 20

    Wollastonite                       15

    EPK                                           20

    Talc                                              6

    silica                                           19

     

    It always worked well on Nara 5 for me.  But it is a Cone 5/6 glaze and I fired to cone 6.  

     

    This is another great recipe.  I got this one from @Min

    My friend and I use this all the time.  We call it Madeleine's Clear.  It has letters, but I do not remember them.

    epk                              23.0

    Silica                            34.5

    Neph Sy                       2.9

    Wollastonite              5.0

    Minspar 200              12.0

    Gerstley Borate       22.0

    Talc                                    3.0

    Dolomite                        3.0

    The John Britt book page 77 has a low expansion clear that I have tried.  It works great.  But it's not a low fire glaze.  It is a cone 5/6 glaze

  8. 6 hours ago, Denice said:

    I am looking at storing some of my glaze chemicals in a safer cabinet.    I have two small heavy metal cabinets  that can be locked with a padlock,  I thought maybe I should keep my cobalt,  chromium, lithium and barium in it.   The tornado that passed by my house a few weeks ago got me thinking about the hazard of them being blown everywhere.   Hundred of volunteers are clearing the damaged houses,  I want to keep them safe.   I know there isn't any way to  prevent tornado destruction  but I want to try.   My question is there any other chemicals that I might have in my studio that should be included or excluded from my list.   I have a lot of jars of glaze chemicals  that I  have purchased over the last 50 years,  if you think of something it is probably sitting on a shelf.      Denice

    I literally never ever thought of that before Denice!  Excellent point.  We don't have the threat of tornados, but...we have had some violent derecho storms here in the past 2-3 years.  food for thought.  Thanks.

  9. I attended a workshop last weekend . The presenter said the dishwasher is hard on glazes because of the alkaline nature of the dishwasher soap and the constant hot water. He also mentioned the absorption as Neil said.    I have always put my work in the dishwasher.  Endless times.  There is however, one glaze that I use, that I think might be seeing the effects of dishwasher abuse over time.  I have not decided what I am going to tell customers.   The glazed pieces in question are years old.  Years.  And it's only one glaze, that I have seen visible effects on.  

  10. This is a great question.  I wouldn't be doing what I do if it weren't for people who shared their skills and tips and tricks.  I just spent a weekend in Denver at a glaze materials workshop.  It was a wide mix of people and skills and ages.  One of the younger men who is the ceramics director at a studio in Denver commented on how the host of the workshop (Jonathan Kaplan) was still asking questions and learning from the presenter (Matt Katz) who is much younger.  You never stop learning seemed to be the message and you never stop sharing.  Lots of people were asking questions of one another and sharing ideas, recipes, techniques etc. 

     I was given a recipe years ago and asked not to share it.  So I have not.  Everything else that I have learned over the years I readily share.  Like @GEP I have also heard Sarah Pike explain that she does not share her glaze recipes.  She developed/tweaked it and it is hers to use.  There does have to be some proprietary parts to a business I would think! 

     

  11. 29 minutes ago, neilestrick said:

    I have shows that are 80% CC sales, and other shows that are 80% cash sales. It just depends on the area and clientele. I find that a good percentage of people at art fairs understand that using a CC costs us 3%, and they try to use cash as much as possible. But by early afternoon most people are out of cash and if they really want something they're going to use a card, although they tend to apologize. At least 75% of the money that goes through my business is via credit cards, and always has been.

    I do not do as many shows as many of you, but my average is 1/2 cash 1/2 CC.  Pretty much everywhere I do shows.  I think the urban areas may be higher in CC sales.  I agree with Neil.  CC fees are simply a cost of doing business.  

    r.

  12. 17 minutes ago, boardbutproductive said:

    Thanks all-- I'm not sure if it's coffee or mold, but either way, I'm planning to refire it to see if that helps. I figure either it fixes it, or this mug goes in the bin like it would have anyway.  

    Amaco suggested decreasing the HF-9 glaze I used inside from 3 coats to 2, as they said it looks like the glaze pooled here, causing lots of little bubbles that eventually wore through.  I plan to try that going forward, and also to run some tests with the orange underglaze.  Everywhere I used that orange, it turned into a sort of orange-peel texture (no pun intended) after glaze firing. 

    I have had that orange peel texture happen with Amaco's Flame orange underglaze and with the intense Yellow as well if I apply too thickly!

  13. These photos were from April 12.  The first one, looking straight on to the patio, is my view from my studio.  Our basement is garden level, so I have nice light.  I can watch the birds as they come to the patio for a drink from the dog's water bowl, or to find a place to nest.  The 2nd photo is simply looking from the upstairs at the  birdbaths filled with snow that day!  

    The snow is gone now for sure!  We have had lots and lots of wind this spring.  Once again, we are concerned about the fire danger.  Seems to start earlier every year.  

    Roberta

    window view resized.jpg

    snow view resized.jpg

  14. 17 minutes ago, Callie Beller Diesel said:

    “Should be vitrified” isn’t “I tested it under my own firing conditions to make sure”.  

    Stuff is getting into the pinholes, and possibly under the glaze. There is an ick factor here for sure. If this is just a personal piece, you might try re-firing it to see if the pinholes needed a little more heat work to clear. It’ll also burn out those black spots.

    Callie, if this person puts bleach in the cup and the black spots go away, would that mean the cup is growing something??? 

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