kristinanoel

I know it's a drive from Ellensburg, but Clay Art Center in Tacoma makes some great stoneware bodies. Here's a link to some of the white/off white options (this is page 3 of 3, go back to see other CAC clays) http://www.clayartcenter.net/~clayar5/content/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=35_92_97&sort=20a&page=3

Hi Terah - what lucky kids, to have a ceramics studio in elementary school! That long soak may be the candling phase - keeping the kiln under 200F to make sure all of the ware is actually dry. This is probably especially useful if the kids are making thick or heavy sculptures that might take weeks to dry on their own. So the overnight candling, followed by full day of drying out before firing probably helps in making sure the work doesn't crack or explode during the actual firing.

Well there you go. Leave out the zinc oxide and it won't be perfect! (Might not even be perfect if you had the zinc.) Win-win.

Also - what exactly is the assignment? To find and test a cone 10 glaze recipe? Why not just find a different recipe that only calls for stuff you have? https://glazy.org/

You could just leave it out and see what happens. You've got talc and whiting, which are also fluxes, and not that much zinc oxide anyway. Think about what each of the elements is meant to do, make glass, stick to the pot, or help the glaze melt. As my professor was fond of saying: "Might work, might not. Try it and see." Glassmakers / Glaze Cores custer feldspar 99 silica 48 Binders EPK 45 Fluxes talc 63 Whitening 36 zinc oxide 9 Colorants +22.5 titanium oxide 6 copper oxide black 6 copper oxide red

Love it! Beautiful design. Signed up for your notification list. Also - it would be great to see a video of it in use - is it messy? Since you're pushing laterally rather than down, is it tricky to use? Would also love to see it pouring - spouts are so hard to craft with clean pour. I've been trying to make a little milk pourer for about a year now and every single one just kind of dribbles.

I have tried the silicone rings in the past, I found them to be a lot of trouble to get on/off, and they didn't really work for me, as they can be compressed. I just ordered these rollers - theoretically they should work great but...theories have certainly failed me in the past! When they arrive I'll report back and tell you how they work - I'm planning on only using them for small slabs I want to make on the worktable, I have a roller for larger slabs, but wanted something more convenient for cutting out little things.

I had the same problem - I the sliders, not the arms, and I've started using cotton pads in between the mug and the slider to protect the ware. Works great, and size/thickness is uniform so I don't have to worry about things getting out of alignment.

Great job and congrats! And your booth looks fantastic! Question for Shawn and the more experienced - what rate do you pay yourself for time on site? Minimum wage? $15/hr? $0/hr? At my first show I was super excited to sell about $600 for a 7 hour event...until I realized that the time required for two people pricing, packing, setup, actual show time, breakdown, travel and unpacking was roughly 26 man hours (hey - it was my first show!). Because there was no show fee, I essentially "earned" enough to cover clay and glaze, but not the labor and overhead for producing anything. (Note that this realization did not dim my joy by a single iota). I'm curious about how others mentally approach this factor.

Oh, that vertical stacking is JUST what I needed to see! I'm planning a piece with some flat slabs that are longer than my kiln is wide, but perhaps i could stack vertically... Were those single fired? I'm not glazing the slabs, so I'd like to do one and done if possible. Did you have any problems with clay-to-clay sticking together in a single firing? And I saw one comment on your photo: " Flat plate or two, flat tile or 7 raise them off the shelf so the heat at top level doesn't crack 'em" - what does that mean? Any tips? Thanks!

Take a look at this FANTASTIC video about adjusting glazes from NCECA 2017, Steve Loucks dropping knowledge. I've watched it multiple times and it's fascinating and incredibly helpful.

I've wondered about this too - what are the possible risks a dishwasher poses? I'm guessing: breaking due to thermal shock if the dishwasher uses a 180 degree sanitation rinse breaking due to hard spray of water or bumping other dishes, if the ware is delicate like porcelain Is it possible that dishwasher solvents would have any impact on the clay or glaze? I wouldn't think so, in a commercially developed glaze, but maybe? What else can happen?

I was in the same boat - although I had a triple beam, so I started out using that, and then got a digital scale. I suspect it's a matter of preference, but I'll never go back to the triple beam - it's not that I doubt the accuracy of the manual balance but the digital scale is SUCH a time saver, it's simply no contest. (Not to mention that the triple beams are much more expensive than digital.) I got two different digital scales from amazon, one for very tiny increments for making test batches, and one that can take more weight for mixing up big batches. Love em. I'd say just read reviews to make sure you're getting something good, and go for it.

Honestly not sure - I'm going to run a few tests between the new and old one and see what could have been the issue. I'll try some comparisons with each of the sliders (I usually use the narrow ones). Both old and new are set to identical numbers, so maybe the old one has some kind of manufacturing defect? If I can identify the problem I'll post!

Just wanted to post an update - the folks at giffin grip did in fact send me a new one in the mail, I've set it up and so far, so good - no off-centering! Cheers!