[Types of plastic wrap for pots to slow or increase drying speed.]

1 hour ago, Min said:

Recently I started using pieces of a painters plastic drop sheet to cover pots as I had misplaced the roll of a different brand of plastic sheeting I had been using for years. There is a marked difference in the drying rate between the two types of plastic. It got me wondering about why this was happening.

Turns out there are at least 3 types of plastic sheeting that are broadly available and they have measurable differences in water vapour permeability.  Low density polyethylene (LDPE), polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyvinylidene chloride (PVdC). I don't know what the original plastic sheeting I was using was made from or the brand, it's a large roll that I've been using for many years.  The painters plastic drop sheet I just started using is this one. My hunch is that it's the type of plastic that is making the noticeable difference. Going forward I'm going to experiment further, pots I want to dry slower will get the drop sheet plastic and for ones I want to dry quicker my original roll of plastic. I should add all the pots were covered in my usual manner. 

Who knew???  Certainly not me!  I know that some plastic is thinner, heavier, but that is the extent of my knowledge!  Thanks for the research @Min

[Transporting leatherhard clay.]

In the past, I have placed everything on wareboards, still in the leatherhard stage, and transported that way.  I have a Subaru outback, I was able to lay the seats down and accomodate all the wareboards.  I have also transported in low tubs with lids, placed some old towels and rags between things just to keep them from knocking together.  That way I could stack the tubs and get more in the car.  I prefer transporting things in leatherhard stage, rather than dry.  A bit more resilient, I guess.   I have a bumpy rural roads for part of my journey.   Good luck!

[Small one off projects]

3 hours ago, Babs said:

My class took place yesterday. The women and a few children had a fine time! 

Gave each a lumo of clay, got them to form into a ball, then hands under the table to shape for a few minutes, then pass to nneighbour, no peeking, x4 so clay now back with original owner, reveal all, keep, or squash.

Lits of laughs, then slab building, or pinching ,  or any of the above, coliured slips, or not..

I had a big bit of paper and they gave their name, drew a sketch of their pots and what glaze they would like listed.

Whew, did they have fun. Exhausted Babs trundled home.

Now to return topack and collect the pots, and home to dry , bisque and glaze. What gutsy folk are out there

What a great idea @Babs   a community effort!  

[Clay prices on the rise]

I was looking through glaze recipes to determine which glazes to mix for the Empty Bowl fundraiser.  Cobalt is $$$, Tin ox is $$$ Gerstley may be on the rise, and since I will be getting funds from a couple of local groups to cover the cost of glazes, I think I am going to buy dry premixed glazes.   My personal dry ingredients have become more precious. 

Roberta

[cracks in large platters even with grogged stoneware]

Beautiful @Mudfish ! Nice work!

 

[Buying a pottery wheel]

My Brent C is 12 years old. It's a great wheel.  However, I have been using the wheels at our community college, Shimpo Whispers.  They are very quiet and smooth.  That is nice.  Especially when you have several wheels going at once.

r.

[Inflation is hitting hard now]

@GEP I just checked online with my supplier and Denver for pricing on GB.  It seems a lot less that what you paid. 

https://stoneleafpottery.com/clay-raw-materials/?page=7

[Small one off projects]

I like the underglaze idea.  And you could use handcut paper stencils, simple designs,  circles, squares, clouds, etc.  Could you have them make simple clay cups or mugs?  If they used underglaze, then you could bisque and all you would have to do is dip the pieces in clear.  Just a thought.

r.

[Their enslaved ancestor’s pottery sells for over $1 million. They get nothing.]

I read this book every year at school to many of the classes I worked with.  And he worked on a kick wheel with one leg, the other had been amputated.  My sincere hope is that his family is able to own one of his pots.  And that some good can come of his work.  Thanks for sharing this @Mark C.

[Make a plaster mold of macrame cushion cover.]

What about making a bisque mold of the fabric?  Roll the fabric into clay, dry and bisque, then make a plaster mold?  That would work if you are trying to get the texture of the pillow.    You could even drape the clay over the pillow to get the shape, roll the clay into the pillow and peel it off, retaining not only the texture but you could manipulate the clay to keep the shape of the pillow.  Just an idea.

 

[Necessary to Seal Underglazed Surfaces?]

2 hours ago, Ben xyz said:

Thanks High Bridge - likely a workaround with the cellphone as well. 

Will need to wing it and hope for the best as far as unglazed underglazes go, in terms of archival lightfastness (since my preference is a matte surface). The other option is sealing the underglazes with their matte c05 clear (or satin c5), and doing tests to check for color shifting and number of coats needed.  Trying to avoid cloudy/lightened colors. Have heard about one glaze out of Australia that seals the work but does not visually alter the surface (though pricey). Surprised there aren't more options out there for those of us who prefer matte surfaces on occasion while working w/ underglazes. The other option is using paints, as done by artist Ken Price. Thanks for input, Kelly.

Have you explored Terra Sigillata?  Gives a great matte, soft, color of your choice, surface.

[Electrician cut off my brand new kiln plug without asking…]

1 hour ago, Jessica2023 said:

So here’s the new plug, you can see how they shaved off the cord exterior. The original plug was obviously the same color as the cord, not black. Talked to the business I bought the kiln from and they agreed the electricians had no reason to do this and should take responsibility for it. The owner of the electrician business bought me a new skutt kiln power cord and is ordering the correct receptacle and will install both on Monday. Thank you for your insights, very much appreciated!! Still can’t believe they cut my plug off lol!!

Very unprofessional!  But glad they are making it right! 

[White raised bumps after glaze firing]

@k77 I have had a similar issue over the years with clear.  I think my problem was what @Min described.  I now sieve everytime.  And if I still have an issue I use a dremel with a diamond tip to grind that bump down.  Then I apply more clear and refire.  I have been successful with that method 99% of the time.  However, that was with a clear glaze.  With Stroke and Coat, you may not have a successful result.  But I did have to grind the bump down to the surface of the plate.  

Roberta

[Kiln creating bubbles in clay]

20 hours ago, SaeChoi said:

I thought if the speckled buff was fired higher it would be more toasty, but it ended up being a gray color. So I’ve been firing to cone 5, still not producing the results I’m used to from the studio I used to fire at.

and examples of the issues I’m having with speckled b-mix fired at cone 5 (it recommends not exceeding past it) with all the bubbles.

Oooooo I know this one.  I had exactly the same issue when I used speckled bmix.  It's overfired.  That was part of my descent into the rabbit hole of "your kiln may be overfiring".  I fired to cone 6 as I normally had been and had the same result as you did. Lots and lots of little pimples.    My supplier had said that clay was cone 5/6.  I called Laguna.  They said that clay is only happy at cone 5.  I started putting cones in every single load and discovered cone 6 on my kiln was more like cone 7.  after more than a year of personal kiln research, I have happily fired speckled b mix at cone 5.  Your photo looks just like my overfired pieces.  As @Hulk suggested  cones on every shelf.  That will give you good information.  I have used Laguna Speckled buff for years.  It is a very forgiving clay.  It can easily go to cone 6 if necessary.  Speckled B mix is a different story.  Cone 5 only.

Roberta

[QotW: What tools that are not specifically for ceramics would you recommend a potter have in their shop?]

I agree with everything stated. I would add surform.  I use mine a lot for trimming.   

[Confused Newbie. Cone 6 base matte not firing as expected]

3 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:

I have seen matte questions a bit here so ……
Just noticed this came out! So posting it here in the event you are still working on these. Sue does a great job of explaining and providing answers to the question: How do I make a matte glaze / more glossy (Stull matte anyway) ? You might find it worth the read https://suemcleodceramics.com/how-to-turn-a-matte-glaze-glossy-with-one-ingredient/

She does mention other mattes and also provides good insight on under fired mattes etc…. IMO

She is offering a free online workshop on Saturday the 24th.  Might be worth checking out.

[G200 vs G200HP]

I looked at my recipes that use G200hp or what I have been using G200HP in.  There are only 2.  One is MC6 clear which I am not really mixing up any longer (Just mixed a small batch and it is very cloudy on my pieces) and the other is Bright Sky Blue

G200Hp   20

ff3134        20

Wollastonite   10

EPK 20

talc      11.5

silica    18.5

Cobalt Carb  1.0

rutile    6.0

RIO   .5

For Clear I am using a recipe I got from Madeleine or one I got from Naomi Clement.  If I am only using G200 in one glaze, it will be easy to do the testing.  

Thoughts?

[G200 vs G200HP]

Thanks Tom @Hulk for the link on the 2015 posting.  I did not see that one.  I did see the link to Digitalfire comparing G200 and G200HP.  The person I talked to today, at the supply house, was not knowledgeable about the actual product.  And because I just took what they had in stock (two 10 pound bags, already bagged up and a 5# bag) I do not have a label to look at either.  However, they are a great facility, I will need to talk to one of the owners tomorrow and see if I can find a source for the G200.  It is slightly darker in color than what I have in my tub.  Tomorrow, when I am in the workshop I will pull my G200 recipes and continue this exploration.  Thanks as always for your expert opinions.  @Dick White @neilestrick @Min @Hulk  

R.

[G200 vs G200HP]

I have been using G200HP for, well, since I set up my studio.  I ordered 20#'s of G200HP and my friends picked it up for me.  As I was adding it to the tubs yesterday, the label says G200.  I called the supply house and asked if they had G200HP and they do not.  And the person I talked to didn't have any info about G200HP.  Here's my first question, Is it not possible to get G200HP now?  Second question, should I make adjustments in my glazes that use G200HP or just mix the 20#s of G200 in to the existing G200Hp and cross my fingers? 

Roberta

[Problems with Mayco SW glazes]

@Chilly asked a great question.  They do look underfired.  On the Mayco site they do recommend a thick application. Perhaps thicker is better with these glazes?

Roberta

[Retreats]

Idywylld Art Center in Calif has summer adult programs with some fabulous instructors.  

Roberta

[QotW: What are your Winter strategies for working in the shop or on pottery?]

I throw and build inside.  Small room, easy to heat.  Even with the  continual below 0 weather we have had this winter.  However, the glazing, and firing happens in a detached workshop.  My area of the shop can be closed off and warms up quickly.  But like @Kelly in AK mentioned, big cleanup is an issue in the winter, so I do the best I can with wiping things down.  I do need to mix glazes but have been waiting for sunshine, no wind,  and a slightly warmer day to do that outside.  We have so much snow this winter, I can foresee us taking off for a month when it all begins to melt in order to get out of "mud season".  Trying to build up inventory before that!  

[Was it a mistake to pass on an old kiln?]

Hmmm good thread.  I did not realize there were lead tests kits out there.  I have purchased and been gifted pottery from other countries.  But they are simply decorative for me, I am concerned about lead.  HOwever, I do use some of my grandmother's random bowls, mostly as prep bowls.  Rather than have them sitting on a shelf.  I will get a lead testing kit.  If a person is testing a kiln for lead, do you swab the bricks?  

Roberta

[Ever regret selling a piece?]

5 hours ago, shawnhar said:

Normally I have no attachment but there have been several pieces in the last few months that I wish would have stayed around longer because they looked great to me and I priced them higher, they all sold immediately and my display is left with the "boring" work.

How do you deal with/feel about the ones that are "elevated"?

 

Sounds like a great QOTW!

 

[Drying room]

Agree with Tom.  Air movement is crucial.  But like @Hulk  I am trying to slow it down at times.  I have very low humidity where I live.  A friend of mind in L.A. is having problems getting anything to dry at all right now.  Lot of rain.    She is resorting to fans.  

Roberta