dhPotter
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Status Replies posted by dhPotter
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A milestone for me today as I threw my first 5 pound pot and it didn't collapse on me. It will be a horsehair Raku pot purchased by my wife's uncle as a gift for his son and daughter-in-law who are horse people...
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Go Ahead On JohnnyK
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Found a house with space for a studio. Been a long 3-4 years with little to no pottery ;[
Excited :DD
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Congrats! Now to work on the fix for the itch!
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Hello DHPotter-
I keep running into the image of your two yellow and red mugs from your post in 2017 on using strontium crystal magic. The colors are striking and the description on how you get/got them is very helpful.
I am trying to get similar colors using what I think are the same glazes and not getting anywhere close. I'm wondering if you have any ideas for me. I'm getting my recipes from the John Britt's book on mid-range glazes, and I am using the Steven Hill firing cycle that Britt has in the book.
SCMW is coming out a kind of bumpy variegated tan. Red-orange on top yields a variegated tan biege which running off the pot a bit. If I go with a thinner coat of SCMW then I'm getting a kind of toasty variegated semi-matt orange-brown --not bad, but nothing like the red on your mugs!
My clay is either a buff stoneware or a white stoneware. Neither has as much flux as porcelain, so I'm wondering if I should maybe flux the SCMW a bit more to compensate. I noticed that you've added 8% silica to your red-orange. Did you find that helped your red red to come out better? Also, you mentioned a thin overspray of Jen's. Do you do that on top of red-orange and does that help it come out better too? AS I'm typing this I'm realizing these are things I can just try instead of asking you. I think I'm just a bit discouraged. I've been trying lots of things from Britt's book and mostly getting nowhere close to the results I see in the photos.
As for the yellow: Let's just say that my Hanna's fake ask is nothing like yours. It's a kind of golden brown by itself and a variegated beige over the SCM. I have not had much luck getting a strong yellow using any of Britt's yellow recipes either, so anything you can tell me about how you got that amazing yellow would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any time you can spare on these questions.
Sincerely,
Jeremy Skinner
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Hey Jeremy,
In John Britt's ^6 book the recipe on page 148 is not what I'm using. Page 176 is closer to what I'm using. My recipe is straight from the horse's mouth - I took a workshop with Steven Hill 2 years ago. My Red Orange has 9.00 red iron oxide instead of 11.5 the book has.
SCMW
Custer Feldspar............. 46.00
Calcium Carbonate........... 17.20
EP Kaolin................... 15.00
Strontium Carbonate......... 12.60
Ferro Frit 3124............. 4.60
Lithium Carbonate........... 4.60
Titanium Dioxide............ 12.00
Yellow Iron Oxide........... 2.50
Bentonite................... 2.00
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116.50Hannah's Fake Ash Iron - The book is way different - this is from the workshop.
Redart...................... 56.10
Calcium Carbonate........... 29.00
Strontium Carbonate......... 10.10
Ferro Frit 3195............. 4.80
Iron Oxide Red.............. 3.30
Yellow Iron Oxide........... 2.80
Bentonite................... 1.00
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107.10My firing schedule - slightly different than the book's. No hold at 1700 - I tried it but got what you are getting - bumpy, scratchy surface. The slow climb from 2050 up to temp and the hold at 100 degrees less than top temp is for healing pinholes. It works.
Segment Rate F*/HR Temp Hold
1 200 220 30-60
2 100 500 0
3 400 2050 0
4 108 2185^ 15
5 9999 2085 20
6 9999 1700 0
7 50 1600 60
8 50 1500 0My clay is a white stoneware, Laguna 609.
Rules for Hannah's Fake Ash Iron - do not allow any glaze under or over this glaze. However, I can't help but get a little overspray onto the fake ash iron. Do not put on thick - it will blister badly. Seems a light application is better - and that goes for SH Copper Ash also. The fake ash Iron is a tan color when done correctly. I don't care for the Fake Ash Blue - it blisters no matter how it is applied.
I apply SCMW and C lightly also. Then spray the red orange till I get the chunky velvet look. I spray a light coating of JuicyFruit, about 2-3 turns of the banding wheel and spray on the upper third of the pot. I found glazes with SCMW and C are scratchy without the JuicyFruit. It tends to make the glaze feel soft.
In the pic I remembered spraying the Red Orange on lightly to get the yellowish that appears in the vertical lines between the red blotches. I just sprayed SCMW in the vertical lines only - very tight application area.
The 8% added silica was for a Red Orange liner, but I don't use it as a liner anymore.
This order of application is Steven Hill's - Pour liner first and let dry overnight. Spray the SCMW or C on first. Then spray the ash glaze. Then spray any other glazes. Don't be afraid to wipe a glaze off with a damp sponge - even on greenware. Sometimes I want a different color foot. After all other spraying is complete then will wipe down the foot area and apply the different color glaze to the foot only. But if it is white I want on the foot it will be the first glaze applied - My white plays well with colored glazes lightly sprayed over it.
Have you tried Bailey's Red 2 over SCMW? This glaze lights up more yellowish. The glaze is on Pg 88. I use tricalcium phosphate instead of bone ash.
Hope I have answered all of your questions. Good luck,
dhPotter
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Back to work for two weeks then a new hip for my wife-two weeks off for me then to caretake.
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Dying inside a little every day, wishing I could make this happen faster...
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I feel your pain - You feel like the ceramic market is passing you by while you learn and better your craftsmanship. Must look at the long haul to know where you are going, but look at your immediate progress to keep your spirit up. Don't be afraid to sit and gaze into your finished work and admire what has been done. The dread of not getting to your goal will come back soon enough.
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Starting to read thru the gerstley borate substitute items on the forum. Has anyone tried Tom Buck's dry mix substitute? Or do you think its less problematic to just go with Gillespie Borate?
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Going to run some line blends today. I want to matte down my standard white glaze slightly. I want it to be more of a sheen satin and not a solid glossy glaze. Taking a much needed day break from my studies.
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Think about using this glaze to do your line blend - https://digitalfire.com/4sight/recipes/cone_6_dolomite_matte_base_glaze_121.html
I used this and a clear in a line blend to get an excellent satin white liner glaze. Came out to use 40% clear and 60% dolomite matte. Had 3 good candidates to choose from. I was looking for a white liner that was not to shiny but not scratchy.
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So excited My first regional entry and one of my submissions has been chosen.
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Oh, yes. Very nice!
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So excited My first regional entry and one of my submissions has been chosen.
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Good deal!! Pics?
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Summer must be here as the board is slow with less posts these days
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Was thinking the same thing...
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Drumming my fingers, waiting to go pick up my kiln in Eugene. Weather and appointments in the way.
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Where did you decide to put the new kiln? Last word I saw, you couldn't put it in the shed.
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You know how you southerners blame the Alberta Clipper for cold weather? I grew up during the cold war and we used to blame the cold weather on the Russians!
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Hi! I ended up here because of your heading "single firing an electric kiln to ^6! I used to visit your area (Antietam and Shepherdstown) frequently when I lived in Maryland. Now I live on an island 10 miles off the coast of Maine where electricity costs 70 cents a KWH!!!! Unfortunately I am addicted to making ceramics.
Luckily I can sell my pots through a co-op here in the summer. Between costs for boat freight for clay and electricity, I don't know if I could afford to sell at wholesale.
As you can surmise, it would be fantastic to be able to save a firing for each piece. Did it take you a long time to figure out how to successfully once-fire?
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Hey joanbrady.
OldLady is the reason I single fire now. She made it sound so easy. I bought Steven Hill's video on spraying glazes. Bought a Critter sprayer, a compressor from HarborFreight. I will say the critter stayed in its box for a couple of months - fear of the unknown. When I started to spray not enough glaze was being put on the piece. Took about 5 test firings before I got the hang of it. Been spraying now for about 2 years - will never go back to dunking donuts - haplessly dipping pots.
OldLady said the glaze should look like chunky velvet as an indicator to how much glaze to spray on the piece. I have posted that pic several times in spray glaze threads.
I have dipped single fire test tiles. But, the glaze was way too thick or either the clay sucked it up. I don't dip greenware test tiles anymore.
Yes it takes more time to spray than dip. But the freedom you get from spraying is just outrageous. The firing schedule must change but only in the very beginning. Up to 500*F, then fire the schedule you have always used.
I do pour into closed pieces just like I did for bisque ware. Wait overnite then start spraying the next day. Bowls are sprayed on the outside first, sitting upside down on a banding wheel. Then turn them right side up and spray the inside.
You don't need a fancy spray booth. I used a converted trash can for a booth for the first year. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.417445012878.195322.344268547878&type=3
Figured it was time to step up to a better booth and made one out of a shower base and plastic cardboard for the walls and ceiling with a bathroom fan for exhaust.
You can PM me if you want any pics or more info. Glad to help.
You are going to love single fire. I guarantee.
DH
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So I'm buying a kiln. Probably a Skutt from Georgie's. How do you like them bananas?
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Excellent, YappyStudent
Freedom is yours now.
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Happy Birthday O.Lady!!!! Wishing you many happy returns!
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Happy Birthday, OldLady. Keep on breathing!
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Youguysyouguysyouguys!!!! I just got notification I got into The Crafted Dish Cookbook!!!
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Excellent!! Give it your best.
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Why can't I get my profile picture to show up?
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If you have done everything as the Refresher says, mainly that your pic is less than 50k, it takes a while for it to change. I changed mine 2 days ago and it took several hours, if not overnite, to change.
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Not happy, not happy. I went to change my profile picture and no matter what I do---and yes, I have read and tried suggestions/instructions from this site--it will not "take" anything, including my original pic. Phooey.
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It may take a little while for it to change. I think there must be a cached memory somewhere and after you haven't been on for a little while then magically your pic shows up.
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Two knee operations, rehab, a hectic work schedule, and the fact that the site doesn't allow me to sign in using my tablet...it has been a while since I posted. It has also been a while since I worked in the studio...but 2017 is another year. Looking forward to getting my hands in wet clay again. Happy Holidays
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Excellent news! Go get 'em.
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