Chantay Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 I have never read or been told how to make cone packs. I have seen others and copied as best I can. Most of the time the clay the cones are in crack in the firing, sometimes coming apart. I had a near disaster last glaze firing. The pack had broke apart and one cone had leaned precariously close to a bowl. So I would like some instructions on what to use to make the pack, when and how to make it. Many thanks to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Either make them from Raku clay or add some sawdust or more grog to the clay. Use sufficient clay to hold them together . Put a lot of pinholes on the pack to avoid blowups.Make them ahead of time so they dry out well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 When I make up cone packs, usually 4 or so at a time, I use a thin brush handle or pencil to put several holes in the cone pack after putting in the cones. I also make my cone packs up with the angle of the cones going perpendicular to the pack length so that I can see the cones drop separately through my peep hole. I fire without a kiln setter of any type. A hassle if I fall asleep at the wrong time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Or use the larger, self-standing cones. No cone pack needed. If you use cone packs, make a handful at a time and let them dry out -- that will cut down the tendency to explode or crack during firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChenowethArts Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 It looks like previous posters hit the high spots pretty well. For me, making the packs well in advance is the simplest solution. I generally use a clay with a higher grog content...something I'd reserve for sculpture work. Most important for me (in a high fire situation) is to make sure the early cones have a place to melt/pool without running all over the shelf. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chantay Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Thanks everyone. I think it is the clay causing the cracking. I will try something with more grog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celia UK Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 As I've never used done packs and ought to start doing so, can I just check a couple of basics? I know you use 3 cones - one above and one below the required cone. Given what has gone before about grog in the clay - do you just make a 'sausage' of clay and push the cones in, perpendicular and with the angle in the direction you want them to fall. Use a pencil or similar to put holes in the pack and leave to dry out completely. Place in front of the peephole and not too near any work. Have I got it all? Could a reusable stand for the cones be made, as above and bisqued. Making the depressions for the cones larger to allow for shrinkage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perkolator Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 ^Pretty much it. Standard cone pack is 3 cones - Guide cone, cone, guard cone. When guide cone melts, it's time to watch kiln more often until done. Guard cone is to show going "too far". Angle of cones is the same as the angle cut off the bottom, not perpendicular/90*. I like to line up the stamped side of the cones, about 1/4" apart, this is so they all fall at an angle and do not overlap. In our studio, we typically use kiln wadding for embedding cone packs. Our wadding is equal parts kaolin, silica, and grog. They dry out quick and never had issues with them cracking and falling apart. Regular studio clay works too, just make sure to perforate it to let steam out in quick firings and to control cracking/falling apart. If you have time to allow them to dry completely, do that or make a few dozen cone packs in advance so you always have bone dry conepacks. I'm sure you could figure out making a reusable stand for cones, but I don't see any point since embedding in clay is as simple and reliable as it gets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Could a reusable stand for the cones be made, as above and bisqued. Making the depressions for the cones larger to allow for shrinkage? You can buy re-usable cone stands. I use them when I've forgotten to make one sooner and am loading the kiln and think "duh, no cone pack!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celia UK Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks for your replies - will have a go with next glaze firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChenowethArts Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Here is what one of my "Happy Cone 10" packs looks like after firing...next in line are in the background. Clay on these is pretty thin and all have been dried and ready to go for several weeks.Good luck, all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Making cone packs trouble free is easy as long as you stick to the basics First make them days or weeks ahead of time-I use porcelain clay and make about 10-12 packs at a time dry them and they are ready to use when I need them second and this is a BIG one make sure that each cone CANNOT fall onto next cone so you can see the end points clearly You should use a guide cone on each side of the Temp you plan on going to so a cone 6 fire has a cone 5-6-7 cone in pack. I like a little room between cones so they NEVER fall onto the next ones.Thats my pet peeve with others cones as it hard to tell the end points when they touch one another. No need to use a tons of cones only 3 are needed unless you do a body reduction in a gas kiln.Which I do with an eyeball not a cone. I only use two cones but you should use 3. I have been doing this for so long two is what I need so I will skip the why for now. Heres a few photos of cone packs that work-you can see the fired ones as well-I fire to cone 11 1/2 way or so depending on how long the fire takes. so my end point cone is what I want to see the 1st melted cone is cone 10 in my packs Just get the angle down and give them some space put the in kiln at angle with a backdrop so you can see them well-the cone box shows all this on side of box as well. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celia UK Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Very helpful, especially the photos. Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Nice Happy cone packs. I knew a guy who used to make his into little dragons and sell them off. A great little sculpture. I have never had any problems with exploding cone packs but I always make sure they are drying for at least a day or two. Good idea using the two cones, I might try that when I need to buy more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rae Reich Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Back when Orton packed their cones in vermiculite, I saved it all. I wedge a little bit into my groggiest stoneware and then make the coil to set my cones. Trim excess clay around edges of base. For bisque cones, I also poke holes with a needle tool (not too many or the pad will be weakened). Dry completely. I make a lot of high-fire (8/9/10) pads at once and put them all into a bisque firing so they never blow up on my glazes. When I'm caught short (eek!) I have quick-dried pads in the microwave. (Poke holes in these.) NOT on high power, go slow and low and stop it often to turn the pads from side to side on paper towels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 I rarely have a variety of clays to choose from so I use my standard cone 6 white stoneware clay, I make them in advance and have never had one blow up, they're only a half inch thick at the very most. I roll a pointy sausage of clay, about 3" long, hold the angled end of the cone down on something level and wrap the sausage around it, never bothered to poke holes in it. Not a pack as such, but I can stand three close together in a line, does the same job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 If you have a scrap of firebrick and a small chisel you can make a reusable cone pack holder. Little fiddly getting the angle right but doesn't take long to make one. This one is a little beaten up but still works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phill Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 i mix up 50% flint and 50% epk and make my packs out of that. its the same stuff as my shelf stilt wadding. this seems to work pretty well, never had one blow up but i always make mine at least the day before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 What about those cheap wire cone holders... But groged clay is easy.... You get way more bang for your buck with not self supporting cones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 I make all my cone pads from porcelain clay but dry them well before using them-never have trouble-I keep them near the heater as well so they stay dry. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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