Chantay
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Everything posted by Chantay
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Reconstituting Wax Resist
Chantay replied to docweathers's topic in Studio Operations and Making Work
I think the shock paddles would melt it for you. Don't forget the contact gell. -
Porcelain Pigment And Pine Oil - Help!
Chantay replied to gmburns's topic in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
I have seen posted before info about a forum. I think it was International Assc. Of China Painters. It was a wealth of information. -
I have been using slip to decorate vessels. I just use straight clay. It could use a lot of improvement. I'm not sure this recipe is right for me, I don't have the Goldart. Can anyone explain what the advantages of using a slip like this verses just clay as I am doing?
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New Project! Electric Kiln Conversion
Chantay replied to synj00's topic in Studio Operations and Making Work
I don't know any information. I just saw the photo a couple of months ago and remembered seeing it. -
New Project! Electric Kiln Conversion
Chantay replied to synj00's topic in Studio Operations and Making Work
I found the picture of the electric kilns linked together to make a wood fire kiln. It is on the Instagram feed of Ryan McKerley. https://instagram.com/p/nQ4jHKPtLr/?taken-by=ryanmckerley No copy past option here. -
When I am testing new glazes I progress from standing test tiles, placed over a tray the first time to small bowls before proceeding to use the glaze on anything of great value. Not only do you need glaze information on how it will react vertically, horizontally, where it breaks, but also where it pools.
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Large Flat Pieces Cracking During Glaze Firing
Chantay replied to Seedy Potter's topic in Studio Operations and Making Work
I am working on larger ( greater than 8 inches) bonsai pots. What I have learned to do it make extra feet to support the bottom of the pot. The bonsai pots have feet, but they are heavy and have the same issues with cracking as a flat plate. The feet are not attached and travel with the pot from making through drying, bisque, and glaze firing. They are then thrown away as each pot is unique. I have also done this with a large 24 inch platter that I made with feet. I place the extra feet about every four inches.- 92 replies
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You have so much artistic talent. The pose of the cat and anatomy is spot on. Very impressive. -
How cold it is.
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Ack, you on the east coast? In eastern Washington here... 40s and RAIN! You'd think Seattle moved over here!
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It is so cold that hitchhikers are holding up pictures of thumbs!
So cold that Starbucks is serving coffee on a stick!
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Been raining, 40's to 60's. Friday, might be in the 70's. So not to bad. Firing help keep the studio warm.
Good ones Paul. LOL.
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Hi Tristan, The last time I purchased some it came from an independent seller through Amazon. It is soy wax mad for candle making.
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I use a cheap foam brush. The melt temp for the soy wax is pretty low. If the wax hardens in the brush, I just hold it down in the pan of warm wax for a couple of seconds till soft again. You do have to work fairly quickly, which I like. By the wax setting up quickly leaves less time for it to drip or smudge. If you work slowly, than hot wax is probably not a good fit. Hot wax is also best for people with larger amounts of items to glaze. If you have a small kiln and don't fire often, cold wax would probably be a better fit.
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The soy wax I use is made for candles. It comes shredded in a bag. Melts at a very low temp. No fumes. The last bag I purchased on the web but it is available at craft and candle making supplies store. I use an electric skillet on the warm setting. I brush on with a foam brush or just dip the bottom in. After dipping I continue to hold the pot upside down for a few seconds to prevent drips. Planning to try out some wax resist decoration soon.
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I am soooo lazy. I made a bowl. then squished into a square/rectangle shape. When it was leather hard I cut small wedges out of two opposite ends. This is where I place the wire to hang the pendents after the bowl was bisqued fired. This way if the glaze dripped, the bowl caught it.
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Oh Babs! No offense taken. I just think it is important for new potters to hear frequently about personal evolution and development. Few people experience it in today's world. I see many new potters upset and disappointed in their work because they don't achieve the look they strive for. Most have never had to repeat work to achieve success. I always keep a couple of my pots. Then I can look back and see how I have evolved. After only three years I feel I have made monumental advancement. I just pulled pots from the kiln this morning. Yes, they are pretty good for someone who has only
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grype, This is an older picture. I have further evolved the foot of my bowls and come cups. I round them so that only a small portion touches the table surface. I also started smoothing them after trimming. Oldlady, I think its all relevant. The first clay I ever used had so much grog in it, it was like throwing with cement. now this red stone feels smooth. If I use a grogless clay like little loafers I have trouble not going to thin. I have learned to leave the surface either a little rough or very smooth. I love the red stone clay for the way it looks when left unglazed.
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Foot of tea cup
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If you want to glaze the bottom of your pots you need to design them for it. The foot ring needs to be of enough depth that the glaze won't drip or touch the shelf in the kiln. For it to look good takes a lot of practice. The few people that I have seen that glaze the bottoms of pots do it with one of those large Japanese brushes. Brushing on two or three layers, again, practice. I like to put a nice deep foot ring on serving bowls and the occasional tea cup. It take a bit of practice to get it. Sadly when pots are pictured in books they rarely show the bottoms. I will try and post a pi
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This past year I switched to hot soy wax. I was having a lot of problems with the wax I was purchasing local and on line. I am neurotic about an even line on the bottoms of my pots. The wax goes on super smooth, I use a foam brush. You could dip. I can't get my table level enough. I use an electric skillet on the lowest setting. No bad smell when firing with the soy. and it is cheap. $5 for 8lbs.
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Pots
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From the album: March 2014
White stone ware, cone 5 -
From the album: March 2014
White stones are, cone 5-
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- horsehair raku
- raku
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It is white except where colorant has been added.
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Robbin Hopper's Slip Recipe: 75 Ball clay 10 Kaolin 5 Feldspar 10 Silica I do a lot of slip trailing with an applicator. If I want the slip to stand up firmly after I have sieved the slip I add a few drops of darvan and then add more ball clay, or some of the dried clay that I am throwing with till a thickened consistency. All the ball clay makes this a nice slippery slip.
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From the album: My Pots
Cone 6, Stoneware, Morracan Sand glaze Peacock, slip trailing
