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bciskepottery

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Everything posted by bciskepottery

  1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019QX7CY8/ref=asc_df_B019QX7CY85233239/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B019QX7CY8&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193166724913&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1972749360143774791&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008188&hvtargid=pla-362684347567
  2. I am not a "big" thrower; on those really rare occasions when I do make a big item, I take the Tony Clennell approach and throw in sections . . . 8 to 12 lbs. or so. At those weights, torque is no problem. Coning, centering, and throwing 25 lbs. or so takes strength I just don't have at my age. I had an instructor who would occasionally throw a demo with 25 lbs. -- and he would collapse the ware at the end of class.
  3. I have a Shimpo Whisper VL. Love it. Learned on Brents in a community studio that also had some old Shimpos and found the Shimpo foot pedal more responsive. Direct drive means fewer moving parts to replace down the road. Had I not gotten the Shimpo, I would have gone with either the Thomas Stuart (pre-bought out by Skutt) or the Bailey Pro.
  4. If you are up for testing, consider letting the half pint dry out into powder, then reconstitute with water (no gum). Then treat as a dipping glaze, like the undercoat of obsidian.
  5. Can you also get the second glaze in powder form to mix? That avoids the whole no-gum/gum situation.
  6. One thing to check out is if you can get your clay dry, not already mixed. That eliminates the need to dry it out to get a powdered form. Many clay manufacturers sell their clay dry.
  7. Durock cement board is described as mold and water resistant . . . and there's a difference between water resistant and water-proof. Cement board is generally used as a backing, not an exposed surface.
  8. Looks like we need to step back and take a deep breath . . . It is okay to respectfully disagree or challenge on content, but let's avoid making comments that characterize members personally. That is not what the Forum is about. And, I'm not singling out this thread . . . it has also occurred in some other recent ones. We all bring different strengths -- whether experience, education, or whatever -- to the discussions and all of our members, whether professionals, students, or newbies, benefit from those strengths. Sputty's comment is accurate regarding the auto-ignition point of wood
  9. I use food coloring for wax -- few drops of green. Just burns out without a trace. Might be a good starting point.
  10. How are you prepping your bisque for glaze application? Wiping with a damp sponge? Any possibility you might have dust, oil from skin, or something else on surface of bisque?
  11. Different glaze application techniques will make a difference. When you spray, more glaze and less water goes on the ware -- so dry pieces mostly get glaze and not water. If you dip, you will have to deal with more water and will need to dip at a stage where adding that much water would not affect the ware.
  12. Whether 1 foot x 120 feet or 15 feet x 120 feet, they are all billable hours. And the more lawyers involved, the more hours billed. (Full disclosure: my daughter is a law school graduate, I work with an agency full of lawyers, and am a consultant who bills by the hour.)
  13. I think a main concern about leeching is that it could affect the taste or appearance of the food coming in contact with it. Also, there can be some discoloration of the surface of the ware. Hesselberth and Roy adopted limits leeching for U.S. drinking water (I think) because there are no standards (except for wares used in commercial eateries that are issued by FDA). And, if you look at limits between H & R, Britt, Tony at Digitalfire, and others, there are variances in what they recommend. H&R focused on durability, so their limits reflected that emphasis.
  14. Needless to say, a tetanus shot (or booster) is never a bad idea for those working in studios. After the needle tool, the metal flexible ribbon of death (your shiny metal rib) is the next most dangerous item of which to be wary. (Yeah, bad pun on needless)
  15. Week 24 Note from Pres: The questions this week are taken from an older book. The book is about electric kiln ceramics, and unless otherwise stated, assume an electric kiln when talking about firings. The main alternative to creating and reducing atmosphere in the kiln is to add reducing materials to the glaze. Several materials are available but by far the most useful and one with the author has experimented is _____________________. bone ash soda ash silicon cabide sodium silicate
  16. Here are the answers to the Pkqw #23 . . . Answers: 3. sodium silicate_To achieve deep surface texture without the use of additives, brush sodium silicate (a suspension agent usually used in casting slip) onto the surface of a thickly thrown cylinder. Once the clay stiffens, stretch the form from the inside to bring out surface cracks. 2. fluted, faceted-After you’ve fluted or faceted a freshly thrown form, you can stretch the curves more by continuing to throw, while pressing outward only from the inside. 1. engraving-From the mid-1700's the printmak
  17. Click on your user name Then click on "Account Settings" Then click on "Notification Settings" I cleared all defaults and clicked on "no notifications" option Then click on Save button before returning to forum. Hopefully that would do it.
  18. Nerd -- what is the magnification of your picture? Helps with context.
  19. The Vent A Kiln hood, which sits over the kiln, is designed to remove fumes, odors, and excess heat. Basically, like the hood over a range vents odors and smoke out of the kitchen. A downdraft vent that is attached to the bottom of the kiln draws oxygen from the top through the kiln, along with removing fumes, odors, and heat.
  20. Upper right hand side, under the blue/teal bar is a tab that reads "Unread content". Click and go. You can also go to the Activity tab, click, then select the unread content tab.
  21. Regular bisque temp for calcining should be fine. The purpose of calcining is to remove chemical water; by doing that, it will shrink less upon drying.
  22. Unless you apply alumina to the rims, they are likely to stick during a glaze firing (unlike a lower temp bisque firing). Understand the desire to maximize kiln space, but work with what you have and focus on quality, not quantity. Cost of electric firing is not that much in terms of overall price of an item. May be a few pennies more per piece now, but you'll make it up later with larger kiln. Think long term, pottery/ceramics is not for those who tend toward instant gratification. But you already knew that -- as evidenced by your journey so far and your work to achieve your own voi
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