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About ayjay

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    Hampshire, UK.

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  • moh

  1. I don't have the same wheel as you, (mine is a Cowley Double Drive) but it has a reverse switch: it takes a lot longer than just the wheel head stopping before you can switch direction, you can hear the motor (or something) still spinning down, only when that has completely stopped will it change direction on command from the switch. If you switch it too soon, although the switch position has changed the wheel rotation won't have
  2. I've taken the liberty of Anglicising your firing schedule Nerd. Use your current firing schedule up to 1120°C - no need to change any of that. 50°C an hour from 1120°C to 1200°C with long peak hold: or, 50°C an hour from 1120°C to 1220°C with very short hold. Natural cool. -- unless colour development is desired.
  3. Sometimes i think it would be really neat to have things dry more quickly, but I reckon on the whole I'm happy with my slow drying garagio, no heat and no draughts. I can throw pots and leave them uncovered for 10 days or more before they're dry enough to trim. It gives me the best chance to catch them at the right time for trimming/attaching handles etc. I've not tried, but I reckon sometimes I could put them back on the wheel after a week and pull another lift. If I need to speed them up they go outside if it's breezy and in the airing cupboard if it's not.
  4. LT4 is the kiln sitter, not the kiln - there is hopefully another number on there somewhere, (before you call Paragon)..
  5. I would try Bath Potters as the first port of call, they are retailers of pottery supplies as are Potterycrafts, but much closer to Swindon. http://www.bathpotters.co.uk/
  6. I've tried quite hard (previously) to find something similar in the UK without any success. I must resolve to start looking again. My favourite air-brush works on exactly the same principle and very rarely clogs up, unlike the needle models which seem to clog up just for fun.
  7. You could also make a hole which will be covered by the bail and support the pendant on a wire through the hole. I fire mine upside down, they are made in two parts, (sprig moulded basically) hollow in the centre and I leave a small hole at the top. I made a stand using a small block of clay with stainless steel pins pushed up through it from underneath, the pendant sits on the protruding pin, (just). It's not ideal, I've lost a few (maybe 10%). If I make any more I'll try the hole under the bail method. I looked at all sorts of things for "chains" and ended up using something cal
  8. I've recently started playing with SC, my first test only used 3.4% SC and fired to ^6 it was white. (There's also a bit of green glaze showing at the top). Using more SC has just given me a nasty black result. I would try reducing the amount of SC.
  9. With a Porcupine quill, it's better than a needle tool, doesn't cut so much and leaves less burrs.
  10. Ayjay looks around, and leaves again: complete with smug grin.
  11. I don't think opening the kiln for a peek at135, (either Fahrenheit or Centigrade) is going to be the sole cause of the problem - I've often been guilty of peeking, normally at about 250°C ( domestic oven temperature) but I've also done it at anywhere between 600°C and 100°C and I'm yet to experience anything like you are showing, so I'd say there must be some other contributing factor.
  12. Is anyone else seeing some strong similarities between those two pots, in both form and decoration?
  13. For a glossy clear ^6 I use:- 20 Potash Feldspar 20 Standard Borax Frit 15 Wollastonite 20 China Clay 6 Talc 19 Silica for a creamy white add 4 Tin oxide If you have those ingredients, this works well for me on Earthstone ES5 and the Standard Buff stoneware at college. . There must surely be even simpler recipes for a clear glaze.
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