Jump to content

Rae Reich

Members
  • Content Count

    949
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Rae Reich

  1. If you are rolling each pass in the same direction, and especially if you have only one roller pressing on the clay, you may be compressing one surface of the slab more than the other. The clay will remember this torque when softened by firing.
  2. They can teach you the basics, then you can decide how to begin production.
  3. Take your original plate to a paint-your-own pottery place and ask if they can help. They will have access to blanks and food-safe glazes and the considerable amount of equipment and resources you will need for a single plate, which will save you time and money.
  4. Campbell has applied his glazes so that they run plenty but stop just before the bottom. That is the tricky part. I have used a high-rutile glaze over an iron saturate just at the rim and had streaks running all the way down to the bottom - and sometimes lower, glazing the piece to the shelf. Your dream surface will take much trial and error experimentation. Start with a high-rutile glaze and test over various other glazes, maybe you'll come up with a signature effect of your own.
  5. I had a firing partner who made lots of big bowls and platters. As @GEP advocates, he embraced the overlap with two and sometimes three glazes that created additional colors/effects where they met and lapped. Quick and dirty, as we used to say, and pretty enough to sell every one. note: you want to try not to lap in the very center to avoid pile-up (and for aesthetics).
  6. Is that surface only on the outside? I would coat a leather-hard piece with a thick coat of slip, then place upside down in a tray and pour/press construction sand into the slip. Brush off excess sand when dry. I think mixing sand with glaze will make it too shiny.
  7. Good advice and information, @neilestrick! Thanks to @LeeU for sharing :)
  8. I may be wrong, but I believe that if @Preeti does not intend to sell or distribute the cooking vessels, but only prepare food in them for personal use, liability would not be a problem. However, if she intends to sell that food, Health Dept rules would not permit reuse of any vessel.
  9. Make sure they're completely dry before heating quickly
  10. The poster didn't actually say that the originals would be used to make molds for clay. They could be used for silicone molds to cast plaster forms.
  11. But Don't Take Orders get them on your mailing list
  12. Does anyone know anything about the huge pair of vases flanking George Washington's portrait before the Senate Chambers? (Where Impeachment presentation is.)
  13. I have a fiberglass stationary tub sitting just outside my studio door (southern California) where the wall is plumbed for a cold water bathtub spout, at stationary tub height , and a hand-held shower head. No drainage plumbed, just a bucket beneath the drain, so I am careful with water usage. Since the tub is not plumbed, but freestanding, I can move it out of the way if necessary.
  14. An interesting throwing or hand building challenge! I'd make a couple of those and price them high!
  15. Also, your chimney stack can be lengthened by going horizontal on the ground a couple of feet before rising. That would get it further from the house. I think Olson or Rhodes has an example. It's what we did on my large catenary so the stack didn't need to be so tall.
  16. Damp at flue exit. Sounds like you're blowing heat out as fast as you're making it, maybe even using too much gas to maintain an even climb.
  17. The fine particles at the bottom of your throwing bucket have been removed from the clay. If you recycle previously thrown clay, replacing those fine particles, from your bucket or with ball clay, restores plasticity.
  18. @Liam V test test test - take notes variables include clay body, glaze application, kiln, firing schedule and/or lab tech, propitiation of appropriate kiln gods
  19. It doesn't sound like you're repairing a broken pot. If you just want to re-do the surface decoration and the piece won't be used for food or drink, there are non-fired as well as oven fired paints for ceramic and glass that you could use, finished, perhaps, with a clear acrylic spray. I would not recommend putting an older piece back into a kiln unless you know for certain what the original clay, glazes and firing temperature were.
  20. If you think the crock pot is the best solution, check yard sales and thrift stores. I used a small tray-style warmer, covered in foil, beneath a s/s bowl*, but the buildup of silt at the bottom of the bowl would soon absorb most of the heat. Crock pots distribute heat more evenly, because ceramic, and elements better sealed. Still, emptying at day's end is recommended, and a full clay pot not as easy to handle as plastic. My new electric kettle heats a cup or two of water in a trice. *on a GCFI circuit
  21. I wonder if the glazes she was using were actually ^06, since she says they're mature. Also she does not seem to have used cones, as @oldladywas asking about.
  22. That's what my daughter suggested I do, too. Makes sense to me. In the big Laguna fires years ago, the potter with an unopened finished glaze load lost about everything but those pots!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.