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Rae Reich

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Everything posted by Rae Reich

  1. I think adding a bit of soap to throwing/mixer water should take care of the clay - never tried it, though, might be too bubbly? And of course wiping down counter and wheel areas after working. Be sure students stay in their own demarcated work areas and wear masks. Sounds like this would be a question for Dr Faucci, or a science teacher.
  2. I made some years ago by silkscreening china paints onto the paper. Messy process grinding and mixing the china paints for the screens because - amateur. There are ^018 enamels (or there were) that come in tubes like oil paints. They are easy to work with and you can paint directly onto the transfer.
  3. My advice is to take a month to make some pots. Making makes us feel good, even the poor little orphan pots! I'm afraid nobody here is going to give you permission to give up all you've worked for to lick your wounds in Granny's basement. You'll feel better about yourself when you've made something. And get in touch with your members for more positive reinforcement! If I was your Granny, I'd give you the same pep talks I give my granddaughter. Best wishes and stay well
  4. Mix some cobalt or cobalt carbonate into a bit of your white base glaze and use that (maybe thinned for brushability) for decoration on top of the white base glaze. Experiment with different proportions to get the color you like. A base glaze with tin in it produces those nice little white dots breaking through the blue. Fired cobalt glazes are food safe when fired to maturity.
  5. The black on the clay body where there is no glaze is carbon from the reduction Raku firing. The black decorations on the first piece look like black stain over the glaze. If you aren't already Raku firing, there is much to learn, grasshopper. Look for Raku videos on YouTube.
  6. More thoughts: lots of pickling and canning going on these days. If you have room to make large vats and crocks, there's a market. I have an old, cast peanut butter crock and it's clear that it was glaze fired upside down on its unglazed rim, leaving glaze on the gallery. Sets could be fired nested upside down. And growlers for the home brewers.
  7. I wonder if the organizations that produce fairs and festivals would consider putting their fairs online - they will be losing revenue for their causes, too.
  8. I'm thinking that it would be wise to plan for a year without shows. Maybe next summer. In the meantime, online shopping appeals to many customers, possibly potters can create online co-ops to get away from etsy distractions. Also, in the short term, consider marketing hand sanitizer bottles - if you know a sewist, see about selling masks and bottles together. Right now, Nurseries are open (because they sell food plants) so think about placing wares there - vases, planters, wall art, garden themed mugs and platters. Stay safe.
  9. The book referenced the CM article in @Hulk's post, James Chappell’s The Potter’s Complete Book of Clay and Glazes, is very useful for finding alternate glazes to get the effect you want at the temp you want - highly recommended! Interesting article.
  10. @Callie Beller Diesel, more details on the mug lids? I love the "Dalmatian" mug!
  11. @Mark C., is the Seafoam Satin Matte on the bottom shelf of the last photo? A nice addition to your palette.
  12. If you wash it back off to the extent shown on your piece in the photo, migration should be minimal.
  13. What you are planning seems the best you can do to rescue this piece. If you make more, smooth the leather hard bowl surface with a flexible rib before adding the coils and then protect it with dry cleaner plastic (cut to fit) to protect the smooth surface from drips and prints while you apply the coils. Sanding and sponging unfired clay removes the finer particles, exposing the coarser ones. Put the oxide or thinned glaze wash on bisqued clay, then you can wash off the excess without changing the surface. Warning: the clay will seem less smooth after bisque, however, trying to make it e
  14. Cracks radiating to the posts seems to confirm @Mark C., although as @neilestrick says, not fatal.
  15. @Mark C., good tip about brushing on the backs! Thanks
  16. I think this effect can be done all at once in a single firing. It looks like there is a white base glaze which has speckles included in it (are there speckles on the outside also? That would be confirmation.) Making your own glaze that includes speckles would be tricky, but there are some pre-made glazes with that effect. If there are speckles only inside, they probably used a method similar to flicking a glaze-dipped toothbrush over it or lightly dusting with bits of dried glaze. (Pour a puddle of contrasting glaze out on a porous surface to dry, crumble into chunks the size you want, s
  17. @oldlady, when you get to buying and cutting pvc, get yourself a pair of ratcheting pvc pipe cutters. I wasted so much time with various saws before I saw the cutters (in the same area as pipe is sold). Just a few clicks and the pipe is cleanly severed!! That way, you can buy the more economical full lengths of pipe - and even cut down in the store to fit in a vehicle.
  18. @Min That's a great solution! My first major glazing disappointment as a beginner was having to lose the beautiful rich red orange of earthenware when I had to glaze it. Subsequently, I thought that the usual dull brown would have to do. Thanks for the tip!
  19. @NancyJ, here's the simple answer: your molds and slip are fine, now try this- Pour in the slip into the mold(s) to the rim, then keep topping it off (without overfilling if possible) until the clay stops shrinking down. This may take several top-offs but don't stop until it shows a slight humping of the center and the sides are pulling away from the edges a bit. Your plaster is very thirsty and will keep drinking in the water till it's slaked enough. Then, as you know, the piece dries pretty quickly. The backs should have a rolled looking rim and a slightly indented center when
  20. You might find that using a liner glaze inside the mugs that matures with the clay and fits properly will prevent seepage and still allow you to use exterior glazes which are beautiful but have some flaws.
  21. If possible, do not put your greenware in cardboard or other flexible-sided containers. That flex could be just enough pressure to stress the pieces. Use layers of bubble wrap or air pillow packing between pieces so they can't touch. (Never used Walmart bags, sounds slippery.)
  22. The advice @Callie Beller Diesel gave is very important. Moving hands up before a full rotation will make the piece uneven. Each motion should affect your pot in the same way, all the way around. When you are doing this right, you will be matching your motions to the speed of the wheel. When you need to move slowly, slow down the wheel, don't let the accelerator pedal dictate your moves. If you follow the suggestions of our @Pres, you'll see the results in your pots.
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