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Found 9 results

  1. Hey all, using white cone 6 stoneware- B-mix 5 WC-401 I have been making some little 8-inch coral wall hangings- I throw bowled plates and fill it in with coral looking bits. They dry slowly and they usually make it through the glaze firing fine but then I like to add some glass (I bought some stained glass and mosaic glass pebbles- photos attached (the ones I bought are different colors but same type)) and put them in for another glaze firing and then they often crack at this step. I try not to use too much glass since I know that can cause cracking and often they just crack a little
  2. I'm having severe cracking problems on large 20 inch platters. I think it's from hairline cracks developing during drying. The platters were dried upside down for about four months inside large plastic bags. Every week or so I would open the end of the bag and flush some fresh air through to clear out some of the condensation on the inside of the bag. Some of the platters were thrown in the traditional pull a cylinder and spread it out technique. Others were made from a slab laid on the bat on the wheel head. It doesn't seem to make any difference which way they were made. Attached are pi
  3. Hello All! I've been trying to make cake plates for a while in my new studio, they just keep breaking in the kiln and I can't figure out why. I've attached a photo from my sneak peak earlier, I dried it super slow and there were no signs of stress after bisque firing. My pottery dictionary doesn't seem to match this type of crack, so I thought I'd ask you wise people. Thanks in advance! Sarah
  4. Hi, We have been doing the jigger for the first time and the pieces whatever we are making have a cracks in a same pattern in a same location, and we are using Terracotta clay to make the pieces and here I m attaching the cross sectional pieces of the molds., and in the molds I have few doubts and I would like to get clarified so that I can reduce the cracking doors one by one., Does the thick and thin portions of the molds absorbs water differently so that the pieces are cracking ? As you can see the picture of the pieces the cracks are happening in the place where the sid
  5. I've watched a lot of videos, and I still don't get it. "Trim your pots when they are LEATHER HARD." "Attach handles when mug is as soft as possible." SO which is it? If things are too dry, or if there is too much difference in moisture content of mug and handle you can expect cracks where the handle meets the mug.. I'm getting my fair share of them. Maybe the answer is to throw mugs that are perfect and need no trimming. RIGHT. I'm using stoneware clay from Standard. How can I avoid cracks. How am I supposed to repair cracks before firing? ja
  6. Hi, I have this problem of cracking or clay splitting when throwing in the wheel, pls find the attached picture and also, after firing at cone 08, the clay has a lot of surface cracks and sometimes structural cracks pls find the attached pic, pls advise why this is happening and how to avoid this in future. Thanks.
  7. Hello! I had a couple of pieces that, freakishly, dried just fine...evenly...even thickness...all around good slab pieces... cracked in the kiln! I fired at the correct temp and somehow this happened. I've read about magic mud...and I was under the impression that it could be used on bisque fired pieces. However, my instructor told me that it couldn't? I wanted to see what everyone thought?
  8. Hi, I would like to ask you for help regarding some trouble with cracking bottoms of my pieces in the kiln.effect that is not described below. When I fire in my electric kiln I can observe that the bottoms of the bodies get stack to the shelves or just crack at the bottom. See the picture here<https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkzUYiXaPPNa3TZ80pGXEUeQBfob> (often there are more severe and damaging cases) So, I think it is not: - Overheating above clay limit as I happened to different clays including porcelain. In all the cases the clays were supposed to survive the temperate of the
  9. I have been using the same clay,slip and glazes purchased from a local ceramic shop. Everything has turned out beautifully but I got a new mug mold that will NOT stop giving me issues! The mug is slip cast using low fire slip. I fire to bisque..all good. Then I apply my glaze and fire..I let the kiln cool for at least 12 hours and still around the rim and handles I keep getting light crazing. No matter what I do..less glaze, more glaze, longer firing, soaking on high, the mug will still craze. Keep in mind, I haven't changed anything from the other ceramics I'm glazing, which all turn out wit
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