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About cadenrank

  • Birthday November 20

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  • Location
    Maryland, USA
  • Interests
    Pottery, biking, hiking, camping, music.

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  1. Me again, with another question that I believe I know the answer to, but want to make sure before I do it. This kiln that I'm overhauling internals on at the moment has it's elements wired so that the elements each have a single wire leading from the 3 position switch to the one side of each element in a section, and then on the other side of each element on the section meets back with two wires at the switch, where they terminate together under that screw (labeled 2 in the diagram). (see the diagram from Olympic on the 2-element section that I've attached) My question is could I theoretically wire it so that instead of the two wires terminating under the one screw on the switch together, they instead wire to each other, and then a single wire from one of those element connectors to the switch instead? The idea of doing this is mostly because the crimp on ring connectors make it hard to fit both wires under the one screw, and also if in the future I have to change switches, it seems the blade type of connectors wouldn't make that connection possible. (see the diagram that I drew on for reference to this) (P.S this isn't an olympic kiln, but it uses the same setup from the 3 position switches as their diagram, so I just borrowed it to demonstrate, because I figured typing out the situation would be confusing.)
  2. Interesting! I know for a fact that each pole is 120v, I just didn't know if it made a difference if the receptacle had one pole, but the plug and cable was wired to a different pole somehow if it made a difference. Unrelated question to the last question, but relative to the original post: If the cable coming into the sections control box is SEOOW, do the wires need fiber glass or otherwise some other type of insulation around it once it splits off inside of the control box? I have some spare fiber glass sheathing that I'll probably slip onto them just to be over the top, but was just curious if it was necessary. For reference, the inside of the sections control box is pretty much just the kiln jacket, a small sheet metal heat shield, and then the switch/connections. They're pretty much fully open air flow (a grate type of ventilation) on the top and bottom of the control boxes.
  3. That's what I thought, but wanted to be sure! Thank you!!
  4. @neilestrick sorry to have so many questions for you lately, but I went ahead and ordered all the parts to replace the section to section wire, plugs, and receptacles. I haven't started the project yet, but am curious about something from an electrical standpoint. So for the 240v 6-20 receptacles, do the hot positions matter? I obviously intend to keep them as close to the original configuration as possible, but the old existing wire from the sections has two black wires, and a green wire. Additionally the wires in the main box for the receptacles are also all black, besides the green ground wires. The old plugs have the same color screws on them for the hot terminals, so I don't really have a way to tell for either end, if that makes sense. My question is basically, on the switch, does it matter if the two hots would be reversed? Either on the receptacle end, or the sections switch end?
  5. Sorry about that, I wasn't with the kiln last night when I was talking here to take any pictures other than the ones I had. I ended up talking to the tech at the company I bought the wire, and connectors at. And they told me to either dremel, or use snips to cut just enough off so it will fit in the recess, and after trying the dremel, and then trying the snips, the snips worked much better, and quicker. Cut off just enough, and got the connectors to fit. Thank you guys again!
  6. I would have to get some and find out for sure, but the only high temp spade connectors I can find have the same outer measurement at #10 screws, and 12-10ga as what the ring terminal that won't work have.
  7. I know it wouldn't hurt to change out the switches to the newer quick disconnect blade type of terminals (which would solve this issue), but I really don't want to have to replace them if they don't need it. Mostly because there's other things in the kiln that I'd like to spend the $90 on instead of three new switches, especially when the old ones still work.
  8. The ring fits the screw well. It just wont fit into the recessed well of plastic around the terminals. The area of the ring connector that gets crimped onto the wire, also doesn't fit into the channel for where the wire is directed out of the recessed plastic area. The issue is that it wouldn't sit flat against the terminal unless the ring terminal was flush with the plastic at the top. (at least this size. I can't find any other high temp ring connectors that fit 12ga, and have number 10 screw size, that have a smaller outer ring diameter than what I have currently, see pictures in my last response if you haven't already for references)
  9. @neilestrick this is a link to some pictures of the new wire with the high temp ring crimped on already, one of the older wires and it's old connector, and the back of the switches screw terminals. Which you can see the one right next to it is even smaller of a size for the plastic around it. (yes, I know the old wires insulation is awful, lol. That's why I'm doing this project.) https://imgur.com/a/IsvIvXn (they were too big to attach here, unfortunately.)
  10. I'm not sure if the end of that would fit out side of the switch spots either. There's a very small gap underneath of the plastic (I thought I had a picture of the back of the switch, but none show the thing I'm specifying, because it's all wired in the pics) where the wire fits into coming out of the terminal. This gap is only big enough for the 12ga wire to pass through. I don't think it even fits the barrel part of the ring connector, let alone the wide flat part of that adaptor, unfortunately.
  11. I thought about this, but wasn't sure how well it'd work. At this point though, I don't really have anything to lose by trying, I won't be able to use the ring terminals for anything else
  12. I don't think the screw(s) on the switch would be long enough to do that. And yes, they're stranded. That's why I was hoping the ring terminals would work. It's much easier to crimp them on than it is to bend the stranded wire and keep it intact.
  13. Those are the ones I bought. They won't fit into the plastic space that is given on the back of the switch. The size of the hole in the middle is good, but the size of the exterior of the loop is too big. I was hoping to use them, as they're much faster to put together, than having to deal with twisting stranded 12ga wire into a hook, not to mention they'd be a lot neater.
  14. Hi guys! I'm replacing my feeder wires and some of the other various wires inside of one of my older kilns. This kiln uses 3 position switches, and a kiln sitter. I got 12ga kiln feeder wire from the ceramic shop, and a bunch of ring connectors. The old 3 position switches in the kiln use the screw type terminals on the back, and they used crimp on ring connectors to make the connections on the back of the switches. I made sure the size of the hole in the ring connectors were correct, and went ahead and cut my first wire, and crimped the connector on, only to find out that the ring terminal is too big to fit inside of the space molded into the plastic under the screw on the switch. So my question is, is it safe/okay to just make clockwise hooks (as you would in a standard receptacle) in the stripped portion of the feeder wires, and to just tighten that under the screw instead of using the loop (these, for reference)terminals? Electrically, it doesn't seem like it would make a difference, other than just not being as neat, and likely taking a bit more time on my end to do this job. But I want to be sure before I go ahead and do it. Thank you guys in advance.
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