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Rae Reich

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Everything posted by Rae Reich

  1. Modifying the trimmed foot is more likely to get you an evenly level pot than adding 3 separate nubs and smoothing them. However. If you are producing large quantities, adding feet will save time and clay. I believe @Pres adds uniformly press-molded feet to some of his.
  2. In lieu of feet, put a folded-to-size damp towel under the board to secure it. Or, put small dots of silicone (about 1/2") at intervals around the edges. Allow to set up for about an hour, then turn over onto a sheet of waxed paper or plastic bag on a level surface. Allow to set 24 hours, then peel off the paper/plastic. This should produce thin disc-blobs that will keep the board from traveling. If they wear or peel off, they are easily replaced.
  3. That's why I always bag the peanuts into "cushions" for packing - and they can still be compressed, but they don't spring out at the customer.
  4. Years ago my sister told me of seeing what she thought was one of my carved-through floral Easter eggs at a "craft fair" which, upon examination, was made in China and very inexpensive. Sigh. Still, we all have antecedents. I have always been grateful for the incredible generosity of the potter community. Very little hoarding of formulas and techniques, a confidence that secrets can be decoded, or reinvented. How unique is that, relative to other creative communities? Maybe it's the alchemy involved?
  5. If I understand @oldlady, she meant to pour the full coat before the marbling dries up. Work quickly.
  6. Nice work, Nancy! I have an extra-large bat that I can use for platters or whatever. It's Masonite, 18" across, so I have to take the splash tray off of my Brent C to use it and prop a large sponge at the edge of the bat to catch slops.
  7. Because you are pouring your slip in and out, you are either coating the area before it can be marbled (first try) or mixing the two colors in the mold before pouring out (second try, except for the spots where the second color hit the side of the mold before it all became mixed). Since the original marbling that you want to approximate was done by layering or kneading different colors together minimally before shaping by throwing or rolling out or carving, you are not likely to get the same effect by pouring together two liquids of the same viscosity - they will blend naturally. Yo
  8. LOL, my iPod is an oldie like that. I like to put it on Shuffle and just let it go. It's so old it has no way to separate out the Christmas songs, so I just let them bring a smile
  9. I have recently been ordering a lot from that big South American river. I notice that the large and heavy boxes suffer more than smaller heavy boxes. Double boxing is good, but only if there is still 2" of air or packing around each piece, top-to-bottom as well as side-to-side. Although it may cost a bit more to ship two smaller boxes instead of one, I think you'll benefit from less breakage.
  10. That seems odd to me. 2 and 7 look to have more belly - is it the height of the slender ones, do you think?
  11. @liambesawmade a video of himself throwing and bravely posted it so we could critique his technique. If you're not shy.....
  12. @tomhumf, will the sealing ring add £5 (at least double your expense) of value to the piece? Might be worth it for something unique.
  13. If you like the look of small bits of different colors, as in the photo of the unfired piece, you could color various "pebbles" with underglaze colors or wedge some Mason stain into the bmix. Nice work!
  14. You could break up a representative piece or two, identify bits with RIOx, and fire them at ascending temps (on a waster slab). Just judging by bisque color is deceptive, positioning in the kiln will affect color, sometimes looking pinker than white.
  15. Kind of peripheral, but: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/proof/id1438546054?i=1000471626832 Has yeast been harvested from Egyptian artifacts? Beer and bread vessels at the Museum of Fine Arts are sampled.
  16. Whatta great idea for those small bits! More details on grid material and longevity???
  17. @Babs, in olden days, sheets of mica were employed as small windowpanes. Probably not as expensive as sheet glass, considering it's a found resource, ready to split into thin panes. Also lampshades, as recently as the 1920's and '30's, a mellow amber tone (Frank Lloyd Wright?). Not sure how readily it was available, but it was commercial. I think it has been used for oven peep holes, since it could withstand more heat than glass.
  18. Would you want to fire to ^6 or ^10? Many white earthenwares can fire to higher temps without distortion, although a thinly slipcast piece might distort due to structural imbalances. Mix up a small batch and make some test pieces. It will behave more like porcelain in some ways, but how your high fire glazes react when on earthenware will be interesting. Let us know what happens?
  19. That's great for those kinds of lids, but twisting threaded lids open and closed enough times to smooth gives me carpal tunnel just thinking about
  20. W.H.O. Recipe for hand sanitizer: Mix in well-ventilated area. 8.5 liters ethanol, 417 ml hydrogen peroxide, 145 ml glycerol and enough distilled or boiled water to make 10 liters. Mix by gently rocking the lidded glass or plastic container. Pour into smaller units. Let sit 72 hrs to kill microorganisms. Use within a few days. Says mixture won't smell pretty. A little essential oil?
  21. If it doesn't like high humidity, as I'm hearing, the virus wouldn't like to live in wet clay, tools, hands. A drop of detergent acts as a (oops, lost the word) emollient? 6' apart. Really, at least. Hands should not touch faces and should be washed before and after working in dry areas. Standard area mop-up between users. Heavy breathing and exertion, even while masked, are more likely to expose you to stray airborne particles. Do such work far from other breathers. Breathe far away from such exertion. Pay attention. Be intentional. Fortunately, except for the greate
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