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Rae Reich

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Everything posted by Rae Reich

  1. I think OP wants to use the pugmill as a sort of extruder. Perhaps a simple extruder would work as well and be much easier to clean. However, cement/concrete sets up so quickly, relative to clay, that I think there would be many other technical difficulties with such a process. I know that in the big concrete mixer trucks, they don't dare stop the barrel's rotation or the concrete hardens and the driver has to climb inside and hammer-and-chisel it out.
  2. Obviously, that wheel will have to be reinvented for each of our individual needs. Maybe check out the catalogs of uniform supply companies to see what's available and appealing. I throw pretty dry, so my legs don't need protection, but I still wear my decommissioned lightweight work jackets we wore at the Pottery Shack - 3/4 sleeves, crotch length, button front, two pockets, loose fit. More pockets usually means hunting more places. Although I don't usually wear polyester, these jackets wash beautifully and wear like iron. Mine were used when I got them in 1979! I also wear them for outdoor work like gardening and painting. As soon as I put one on, I feel ready to work.
  3. You might be adding air bubbles to your slip when stirring/mixing. If you think that's the case, try tapping/banging on the slip container before pouring to work out some of those bubbles. If the slip is very thick, it may hold onto bubbles, not allowing them to move easily up and out. Experiment with thinning the slip, a little at a time, in a small batch. Air bubbles should move easily to the surface to pop in the container before you pour into the mold.
  4. Hmmm... This goes a long way toward explaining why my kneading efforts have been disappointing - I've been wedging out the air! Thanks, @Chilly
  5. Definitely going to try this recipe, though most of you haven't been very helpful in helping me understand the difference between wedging motions and kneading motions I will try. @Callie Beller Diesel, does "turn" mean "turn over" or "turn clockwise( or widdershins)"?
  6. @Callie Beller Diesel, "bun smush"???
  7. Thanks, all. Guess I should have been more specific. I'm familiar with the various types of wedging. I learned to cone, which was described as pre-aligning the clay platelets in a spiral before throwing, as well as conditioning the clay and homogenizing it. So, the object of bread kneading - is it just to homogenize? @neilestrick's recipe seems to rely on moisture alone. For breads that need kneading, how does that action, motion differ from ram's head wedging? Am I conditioning/homogenizing but not necessarily aligning molecules? Do I just need to whack it around like the bread machine does?
  8. Any bread-making potters out there? I've been trying to make bread recently. Apparently, kneading bread differs from wedging. The bread machine flings the dough around sort of randomly but produces a lovely loaf. What do I need to re-learn or un-learn?
  9. After you've pressed the femo in to fill the details of the mold, add even more till it mounds up. Then use a flat femo blade or a razor blade if the pieces are small, to slice off the excess. Smooth any rough edges with your finger. The femo blade works best because it is about 8" long and 5/8" wide and very thin and sharp. It doesn't work as well on clay. A stiff fettling knife would work best for water-based clay.
  10. I did not know that the spouts continue to wind, rather than unwind, just knew how to offset for "twist" without thinking which direction it was winding. Thanks! Never too old to learn
  11. I think these are "occasional" rings, not daily-wear rings. Standard disclaimers regarding possibility of scratching of the gold and/or breaking the ring under high-pressure should be sufficient. @MeganH, you won't need to worry about distortion as long as you have not distorted the clay rings before they dry and if the rings aren't hanging during glaze firing from a narrow rod, but laying flat on an unglazed edge resting on a surface dusted with alumina (any residue washes off after firing). Unglazed area can be smoothed with emery cloth before the lustre ^018 firing.
  12. That's a new one on me - doesn't lead fire out at higher temps? @Jared219, the obviously-painted-look of the hearts and banding probably comes from actually painting on the previously glazed surface with a lower firing glaze or enamel. These can indeed be scratched or marred by wear. The orange matte glaze has such an even application because it was sprayed on, I think, but not because it is paint sprayed on.
  13. A photo of the bottom, however indescribable, is necessary for attribution.
  14. Try the rutile under, maybe it'll run first.
  15. Actually, @Mark C.just gave us one with his "quick cooling" story in "temp for opening the kiln?"
  16. Good thing you're a philosopher, Hulk. Can't wait to see those next pots!! Drastic/Tragic Learning Experiences - good topic
  17. Jelly molds and bundt pans are designed to release their contents. Put a board over the opening, when the board and mold are turned over the contents should fall straight down and the mold can be lifted up, the piece will be on the board. As the others say, there are a few things you can do to make removal easier, next time. This time, let the clay keep getting drier and try the turned-over-to-a-board thing every day till it comes out. You might kind of smack the board down hard on your table to help jar the clay out, but don't try to pry it out.
  18. Sorry, a joke from the days when no scrap of glaze went unused. All went into one bucket, a test fired, and if/when disappointing, enough red iron oxide was added to make an iron saturate liner glaze.
  19. The shell that has formed by pouring casting slip into a plaster mold and then, after a short period of time, pouring out the excess slip, should not take more than a day to be firm enough to remove. Molds are usually opened as soon as the clay is firm. The piece then continues to dry in the open air. Leaving the form in the mold until dry, unless it is a very simple shape, is likely to cause problems with removal because the casting slip will have shrunk around curves. Removing the form sooner also lets the plaster mold dry sooner, making the next casting sooner. Are you in a climate that is cold and humid? Drying times will often be longer than my generalized, 65-80 degrees F. Are you casting a solid form, rather than a thin shell form?
  20. Thanks! Converted backwards ;( That's an even bigger heated kettle - restaurant?
  21. @lilipil, it seems like you will need a Very Large electric kettle for those amounts, to have nearly *100 lbs (48 kilos?) in your batch. Your melting/heating device size will determine how much you can make at a time. *math corrections welcome
  22. Granular Illmenite is coarse. That's what is used in some speckled glazes for that effect.
  23. But the difference in mass between a small kiln load of Advancers and mullite? Not 30%??
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