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Everything posted by ayjay

  1. I've definitely used it successfully over a gloss glaze in the past. I think I still have a piece like that, I'll try and look it out and take a pic. From the other topic " and trying to not mix the glaze too far in advance seems to help too.", I'd wondered about that myself. Looking at that logically (well, economically anyway) you won't be making a large batch of this glaze, so it must be brushed or sprayed rather than dipped. I've got a test tile (brushed on) in a friends glaze firing today and also a test (with some underglaze and some ^6 glaze on a pot) in my own bisque fire
  2. Joseph, thanks, I'd been following that topic with interest, although I've not had many problems with the glaze flaking from vertical surfaces. I do remember it happening once, but that's all. I've used crawls sparingly but am never sure how it's going to turn out and am unsure of the best method of application. The formula I started with was taken from this website (istr:) Soda spar, 30: Mag. Carb 30: FF3134, 10: Talc, 10: EPK, 20. When this has been successful the cracks between the eventual blobs of glaze have opened up as it dried. This hasn't always happened. I'm trying a di
  3. Crawl glazes or beading glazes or Lichens or Reticulating glazes, whichever you prefer to call them, anything with a high Mag Carb content is what I'm referring to. I like the effect of these (in the right circumstances) but am never sure if they are going to work or not. What sort of consistency should I be aiming for with the mixed glaze and what is the best application method and thickness? Dipping is rarely possible in the circumstances I like to use them. Do they work better over a gloss glaze (they appear to to me) and is there a way to make them work better over a matt gla
  4. Snoozing Fox in the garden. Plenty of these around in the garden too, (although this one is rarer being an aberration, with extra spots).
  5. If you have almost exactly what you want but without the "roundness underneath" - can you *solder blob* the item or possibly add a small dab of epoxy to create the roundness?
  6. I think people normally celebrate joyous occasions, not suicide of national proportions. I'm not biting, (not very hard anyway): time and place, etc.etc. ...........and I'm just about discussed out via UK based forums. The fact remains, I voted to not go in in the first place back in the 70s and I've since loathed every twist and turn of the breathtaking corruption in Brussels. We were fine before the Common Market and we'll be fine long after the EU is dead and buried.
  7. Just a normal day here: maybe some time in the future we'll celebrate 23rd June, Brexit Referendum day, (and my birthday).
  8. I use both standard spray guns and airbrushes, being in the UK we seem to have different equipment available (and unavailable) to the US and I've never been able to find the Paasche guns mentioned here and in previous posts. I tried a couple of airbrushes, with the largest needle I could find, but even though all my glazes are passed through a 100 mesh sieve I still suffered annoying blockages. I've eventually settled on a Badger 250-2, this doesn't use a needle for delivery, it operates by the same method as a Critter spraygun, it will still suffer the very occasional blockage (far
  9. I don't even like to make tea in a cup or mug that isn't white inside, I am only a very occasional and very amateur painter but I also couldn't use anything but a white palette. It's like how glazes appear different on different clay bodies, if the paint is going onto a white ground it has to start on a white palette.
  10. Only guessing here, (I've not yet worn out any elements) but as you have less element material than in a larger kiln wouldn't the effect of deteriorating elements tend to show up much quicker?
  11. There's a couple of web-pages worth a read which might help you out - links below. Lots of recipes on the first link and the second is more of a brief *how to* http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/oxidewashes.html http://www.fireverseceramics.com/using-oxides.html
  12. 1) That would be considered normal/standard - but you do whatever you want, the Amaco Velvets for example have a pleasant finish when unglazed, and if the clay is correctly formulated and fired to maturity it shouldn't need glaze. 2) All the underglazes I've used can be watered down, often they benefit from it, although you would then need more coats to achieve the advertised colour, they are very much like watercolours in that respect. 3) The clay and glaze need to match: a ^5 clay needs glazing with a glaze that's formulated to fit the clay when fired to ^5. A ^10 glaze won't hav
  13. It depends: , (as usual). https://digitalfire.com/4sight/education/reducing_the_firing_temperature_of_a_glaze_from_cone_10_to_6_101.html
  14. I've tried it once, (but later I accidentally broke the piece and binned it), mine came out alright in most respects but it was just a dull beige, fairly matt in comparison to the pic below and no crystal growth at all. https://glazy.org/recipes/4602 It may need a slow cool down programmed in after reaching ^6. I'll give it another go some time, but my output is not prodigious so it will be a while.
  15. 0.2 is 4% of 5.0 Use a calculator - divide 5 by 100 = 0.05 - (so 0.05 is 1% of 5) multiply 0.05 by 4 = 0.2
  16. The first figure after a decimal point represents *tenths* - the second figure after a decimal point represents hundredths. 0.02 is two hundredths, or as a fraction it's 2/100 - two tenths would be 0.2 - or 2/10 as a fraction
  17. Rodart is probably Redart: likewise, Crocus Martin = Crocus Martis
  18. It's not normal to bisque fire to ^6 if you glaze fire to ^6. Have you always done this?
  19. Absorbent bats (mine are all plywood) need to be damp (just damp, not wet), If I'm going straight on the wheelhead I like it dry. Smack the clay down harder, also when your clay is wedged and ready to go on the wheel, round off the bottom a little by rolling it around until it's like one of those toddlers toys that wont fall over, this will prevent any air pockets underneath and ensure good contact if you smack it down hard enough.
  20. Does using 12% do something other than make a simple white liner glaze? I use 4% Tin Oxide added to my clear liner and it makes a perfect white liner glaze.
  21. More information required. What cone/temperature does your clay fire to? What colour is the clay when fired? What sort of glaze do you want: clear or white or some particular colour? Gloss or matt finish? Is your work functional or just decorative?
  22. I'm sure I've said before; my wife started pottery classes at our local Adult education Centre, after three years she was still bringing home a multitude of strange misshapen lumps (these were thrown, not hand built) and I found myself wondering - "how hard can it be?" So I started going as well, it's not hard at all, my wife is just crap at it. As an aside, pottery is how I came by the name Ayjay. Everyone in my father's family is known by their second given name - I don't know why, (but I could speculate). So, I've been known as John for all my life, although first name is A
  23. A couple from this side of the pond, Francoise Dufayard & Doug Fitch. https://sites.google.com/site/dufayardceramics/photos http://www.douglasfitch.co.uk/index.php
  24. I counted seven. http://www.stanton-kilns.co.uk/old-hand.asp What's the model number on yours?
  25. There should be something here:- https://glazy.org/search?search_words=blue&category=0&cone=30&atmosphere=0&surface=0&transparency=0&color=
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