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High Bridge Pottery

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Everything posted by High Bridge Pottery

  1. You can get some interesting domains now, I bought www.thepottery.store but I haven't worked out what to do with it yet.
  2. G0026 is a weird one, doesn't even really look like the same glaze? Maybe the ink is throwing me off. Did you dip them at the same time? Not sure why the worse clay is a lot better. G0027 seems like the one to go with. I would try reducing the silica and/or alumina and see if that reduces the orange peel texture. The high SiAl is probably doing a lot for how it fits though so may start crazing again. If it does it would be interesting to try your spodumene again and see if adding a little makes it worse or better.
  3. With G0023 you were just swapping out custer for spodumene? Strange results. If the G0027 is the closest to what you want then I would go from there. Can you post a picture of the 0.1 and 0.2 boron ones? Maybe G0026 too
  4. What's the problem with having high LOI? I never found it causes any problems, especially in cone10 glazes. Always found whiting the best CaO flux source. I hate trying to sieve wollastonite so don't use it, clogs up the mesh. and takes me 10x longer. The Silica and Alumina look too high for me but interesting to see what results you get.
  5. Why do you think adding say 0.1 Li2O and 0.1-0.2 B2O3 decreases durability? I think a good mix chemistry is better for durability in most cases. Too much of any oxide is bad for this so it seems a good option. Sure you can make a nice glaze with only Na2O and CaO but why not add some more flux into the dance that can also lower COE. I don't know how adding silica or clay is any easier or less complicated than using spodumene and a frit. Why ignore the calculated COE values when they line up with tests? The 6.5 crazed less than the 6.7. Even if the numbers are for a theoretical final melt they still have value in relation to each other.
  6. The last thing I was working on is a bubble free transparent. It's a slightly odd recipe as I was trying to remove any silica or clay. I was also removing zinc because I hear it is bad with some colours, and I don't know how well it reacts in reduction firings. Fired to cone10 oxidation on the tile. It is true that you don't need boron at cone10 but I see no negative reasons not to include it. I think your observation that a lot of the recipes are probably more a cone11 is a good one.
  7. I like using a boron frit at cone10. Much better than using zinc as a flux.
  8. A little lithium has always gone a long way to stoping crazing for me. I would try the spodumene addition. I would reduce the silica and alumina, but that's just me. @Bill Kielb What is the R2O/RO looking at? Is it just the alkali metal oxides ratio to alkaline earth metal oxides?
  9. Whiting has that fishy sea smell to me. Guess that's because it's made from sea shells. Dolomite and talc look similar to me. Silica, not sure, firing a sample of each will give some good data to guess from. Maybe do a sample by itself and a 50/50 mix with silica.
  10. I always found it easier to open the burners all the way and use the single regulator after the tank valve. Whatever you find works best for you is the best.
  11. Make sure it's not an FTL (Faster Than Light) code. In this forum, we obey the laws of quantum physics!
  12. Found a house with space for a studio. Been a long 3-4 years with little to no pottery ;[

    Excited :DD

    1. Show previous comments  6 more
    2. Min

      Min

      So happy for you Joel! 

    3. High Bridge Pottery

      High Bridge Pottery

      Looking forward to being able to post some stuff here again :D  Few months and I should be set up. Have two weeks off work the end of next month as the factory is shutting down so plan to be moving in by then.

    4. Denice

      Denice

      Isn't it nice when a factory shut down works to your advantage.    The company my husband worked for shut down at Christmas for two weeks every year.  Most people used some of their vacation time,  one year they shut down  for over a month.  My husband was promised a job when they reopened  so we decided to take a long vacation in New Mexico and Texas.  We did a no maps, reservations, computers  trip and the areas we were in didn't have cell phone service.   We found ourselves at the strangest little towns and tourist attractions.  Now that he is retired I hope to do it again.   Denice

  13. Where's ma test tile to look at! Don't leave us hanging
  14. I went on a tour of a toilet factory, they fired to cone10. Made high end toilets with wash and dry functions.
  15. Is there anything on the timers that you can twist? Never even seen a fixed interval timer and a repeat cycle timer. Also weird that the bottom elements are not controlled by the infinity switch. Interesting kiln.
  16. That's a shame, hope you manage to find something suitable soon. I always found those kilns are the only cheapish small second hand kilns sold. The rest seem to be big front loaders from schools etc. Unless the big kilns are in great condition and you have the right electricity supply it's not even worth taking them away for free. £250 plus a 400 mile trip is about the maximum that kiln was worth without knowing how good the electrics really are.
  17. Sorry it was a really long link so I added the word ebay, made it harder to spot.
  18. It looks like a slightly bigger model to mine but I think the floors have metal underneath and wheels on the bottom. At least that's how mine is. Probably a little more than 13amp too as the description says use oven socket. The lids are not great on these kilns. If the electrics are good and the kiln sitter and elements work it's a bargain for something to get you back into the game. Even just for the brick structure I would buy it if I was closer and had space for it. Turns out it's only an 8 hour round trip hmmm I will control my hoarding instincts.
  19. The one in the ebay link is in the south-east. Looks ok for £100
  20. Sometimes a cromartie hobbycraft comes up for cheap. I got a rust bucket one for £67. ebay Where in the UK are you?
  21. Not sure if it is going to go much over 1000 but see if you get a response, weird that there is no temperature on the nameplate but when glass and enamel are involved they are usually lower temps. What sort of work are you looking to fire? Cone6 pottery?
  22. Seems like it would be simple, not that I have used a kiln sitter. Just a hole in the wall for the cone bit to go through and wire it up. Do you already have the kiln sitter?
  23. Before I saw a stull chart anything around 8:1 ratio was a good gloss. To me the stull chart is showing the same thing, silica compared to alumina. Lots and lots of tests is the best way to design/alter.
  24. The best way to understand glaze behaviour is to try it and see. Start melting rocks. Altering the firing schedule was always the biggest pain in the butt for me as it took 24 hours~ and a kiln full of stuff to see if anything changed. This is a good read for stuff that happens when you fire https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ZldESiqt7z1gIpV-AS80_nA_MRtHKc3MC1SKBew_Y1o/edit?usp=sharing
  25. Shiny metals emit IR inefficiently. You can see it reflecting inside the electrical box, if you got the right angle you could probably see yourself. Need something with a high emissivity on there to see how hot it really is.
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