Chilly
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Everything posted by Chilly
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Be aware that mixing glass and ceramics can cause the glass to explode free at any time from the day after glazing, up to several months later. In short they are not compatible.
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Whatever you do, don't run it from extension leads. I got an electrician to put a caravan type outside socket wired from the fuse board. He then used Arctic quality cable from the kiln controller that I can unroll from the greenhouse to the house and plug in. Works perfectly, whereas previous setup melted the 13amp plug.
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As above, plus replacing top bricks is the easiest of all the jobs on a kiln. Ring Potterycrafts about replacement bricks. I had to do the same when I bought my 3rd hand kiln.
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Arrrr, admire me clay booty!
Chilly replied to Pyewackette's topic in Studio Operations and Making Work
Probably true in most countries that have switched from imperial to metric. We buy timber in metric lengths and imperial widths. 2 x 4 by 2.4, but we all seem to accept that it's 2" x 4" by 2.4m. Or 2 metres of 36" wide fabric. blah blah blah -
What are these little black dots?
Chilly replied to boardbutproductive's topic in Studio Operations and Making Work
Mould or coffee = unsanitary. Bin or re-fire. -
Smallifying pictures to post with Win10
Chilly replied to Pyewackette's topic in Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
A bit late to the party, but I don't have a magnifying glass on the bottom row. On laptop (Windows 10) or new desktop (Windows 11). I do know how to crop and re-size, was an IT Trainer for many years. I spent over 20 years writing courseware and reference materials, and one of the impossible things is knowing where to start with instructions, and how any individual's computer is already set up. Kudos to anyone trying to help, but you have to know what your customer has/knows already. -
About an hour drive to nearest, or 5 hours to Stoke-on-Trent (aka "The Potteries") with a number of suppliers. Pottery association has cheaper clay, but is about 75 minutes drive, or I wait until Summer Potter's Camp and collect it there.
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Yes.
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I use an extruder, horizontally, next to a corner wall. Use the side wall to push the handle in. I tried it upside down, pushing handle on floor, but that was not good. Also tried right way up, pushing handle up against greenhouse bench, but that lifted the bench ! Similar to this.
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I tried all variations of angles, and more water/less water but not this Rolled handles and a template to dry them on in the required curve was the best I got to. Then stopped making mugs.
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As @Mark C.says. Slip cast handles are hard to make so they are solid. Mine always ended up with a hollow down the centre. No amount of re-topping the reservoir, changing the viscosity etc, made any difference. As soon as I put any pressure on the handle to change it's shape it squashed or flattened.
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Glazes Cone 6 - book by Michael Bailey - it's written by a Brit, using British obtainable ingredients. Much as I like the other 2 classics, they use ingredients that we don't always have access to.
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Probably yes
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might be the plaster is too weak, or wrong type of plaster. Or just the pointy bits are too small to survive slip. I don't know if that would cause that.
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https://www.differencebetween.com/difference-between-cobalt-oxide-and-cobalt-carbonate/ Read carefully @oldlady! Test papers will be sent round later - lol.
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Old Forge Creations has a post on this: https://www.instagram.com/p/CWwKv9yLq5F/?fbclid=IwAR3SXVC8DqyCmsrfAcsCKPB87bvhJOQIMqMfLVVYh8Dsxwn_n9PIPIL7VRk
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The holes will from bumps on the cast item. Might be just as easier to rub them smooth after casting. It's unlikely that tiny amounts of plaster will stay in place. Might be just as quick to re-make.
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I didn't mean for the clay to be between the plaster, just pushed into the gaps. Perhaps I should have said " push it into the gaps, not between the plaster"
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Try a coil of squidgy clay. Press it into the join all the way round, from the outside. If that works, and the final result is good, and you want to reuse the mould a lot, I'd re-make it, or at least one side to get a better seal.
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Check the firing temps and cones. should be on the labels
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Oh yes, so true. Really sharpens the learning. As for books, they are easier to hold open on a page while you are looking at the kiln programmer, or fixing the shower tap, or knitting a row of complicated stitches. But, sometime words just cannot describe what needs to be done - if a picture tells a thousand words, then a video must tell a million. But only a good video, correctly edited, good background, no errs and umms.
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My controller came with 10 programmes, some I use as set, some I've tweaked slightly, some I've completely changed. The kiln won't reach ^6 so I changed those as there were none were for glass slumping,
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From the album: Kiln Stuff
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Techy stuff re kiln
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From the album: Kiln Stuff
