Chilly

Check the firing temps and cones. should be on the labels

Oh yes, so true. Really sharpens the learning. As for books, they are easier to hold open on a page while you are looking at the kiln programmer, or fixing the shower tap, or knitting a row of complicated stitches. But, sometime words just cannot describe what needs to be done - if a picture tells a thousand words, then a video must tell a million. But only a good video, correctly edited, good background, no errs and umms.

There are two advantages to using recycled clay: cost and waste. At the centre where I volunteer we use both. Which one gets handed out usually depends on moisture content and proposed use - slab, coiling, pinch, throwing. Also how busy I have been, and how much waste clay the rest of the group have produced. If we didn't recycle the clay, our costs would go up, and we'd have to charge more. Some potters create a lot of waste, they forget to keep the spare clay covered, or they let something dry too much, or they break it at greenware stage. I often prefer the re-cycled stuff, I have more control over it's moisture content, I can let it dry a few more minutes to get it just right. Out of the bag it is how it is.

Further to @Callie Beller Diesels excellent comments, glass fusers know not to mix COE 96 with COE 90 glass. Because they don't fit together. And many potters know that using clay and glaze with non-matching COE can cause shivering or crazing. Because they don't fit together. Mixing glass and clay is just asking for problems down the line. I have unjoined many clay forums in the past due to a constant non-belief by some members that the two are just incompatible. There is a lifetime of testing available with glaze that is designed to work with clay, why introduce an element that is known to be incompatible. Edited to add, using the "next" button has taken me to a post on shivering glazes. Just goes to show there are enough "fit" problems with glaze, without adding glass into the mix!

My controller came with 10 programmes, some I use as set, some I've tweaked slightly, some I've completely changed. The kiln won't reach ^6 so I changed those as there were none were for glass slumping,

I have a large harp that I suspend from a shelf in the greenhouse. Probably wouldn't work in the dining room, but it might get your mind working in other directions........

I'd give it a good six months before declaring them anywhere near safe. Hot/cold/dry/damp a whole weather and heating systems worth. And I still wouldn't do it. To me it's like mixing petrol and diesel in my car.

And practice removing it from a cold kiln before you start.

Pinch pot animals, cookie cutter xmas decorations, book ends (slabs and coil snakes), door plaques.....

What @neilestricksaid, plus. If you do move it, make sure you plug it direct into a socket that is connected to your fuse board. NOT an extension lead. NOT a socket in the garage that is connected to a cable that is connected to ..............

Possibly pictures are too big. Try e-mailing them to yourself first, choosing a smaller size.

Not sure that I understand what you are trying to achieve. Can you post photos? Of what is not working, and what you are after.

As @Mark C. says. they're different to load. For me, putting the shelves into the front loader is harder on my back than bending down to load the top-loader. The shelf is hanging from your fingertips as you put it all the way in, trying not to drop it on the shelf-load below. I own the top-loader, and use the front-loader at the community centre. I prefer the front-loader, just easier to add tiny extras to a lower shelf.

Hi @Didiho Welcome to the forum. When you say it "bubbles", do you mean there are bubbles in the wet glaze? Or on the pot before firing? On on the fired piece?

I drop-slam wedge. Drop the lump onto a concrete paving slab - covered in cloth or heavy duty plastic, then squat to pick it up. Cut in half, slap together, drop, repeat. Clay gets wedged, body gets toned. Proper squats, using legs not back.

Cute, But I had to read @Mark C. explanation of who was who !

What cone/temperature will you be firing to? I still wouldn't.

I would think that if they have glaze on, you can't stack them. Or, at least I wouldn't, even at low temps.

True wizardry

My kiln is in my greenhouse, and it too is far from a plug. I have it hard-wired into a long length of "arctic-quality" cable, with a caravan plug on the end. My electrician placed a caravan socket on the house wall, wired directly into the fuse board. This way I can roll-out the cable when I need to fire and put it away after. I only fire a few times a year.

This is what I bought, also R type. I've put some pics in my gallery, you might find helpful. Don't seem to have a picture of the new one, but it arrived identical to the old, without the break!! We also, while we were in there, replaced the wire between the thermocouple and the control box. https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/gallery/album/1530-kiln-stuff/