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Everything posted by Chilly

  1. Yes. You need to test different methods, as they will give different results. 1. Apply, fire, apply glaze, fire. 2. Apply, apply glaze, fire. 3. Apply glaze, fire, apply cobalt, fire. 4. Apply glaze, apply cobalt, fire.
  2. Wow @Pres, you posted this question 21 hours ago and no-one has yet replied...... For me, the answer has to be "both". I like ^6, but my little kiln doesn't. The one at the community centre likes ^6, but no-one else does, or needs ^6. So, for some purposes, ^04 is fine, the glazes are more plentiful (UK), they come in every colour including special effects. They suit the users at the community centre, and make my life as the advisor and firing tech much easier. But for mugs, outdoor pots, bonsai pots, casserole dishes, I still want ^6. Or higher and wood fired.
  3. Sounds interesting. Please let us know how you get on.
  4. "Not for food use" - wouldn't want them on my sensitive skin.
  5. Another chart, with nice, round numbers for the water.
  6. There are some Youtube videos by ............ mind gone blank. The same guy does a video where he likens glaze materials to driving a car ......... Someone here will know who I mean..... John Britt I think
  7. Your test "tiles" should resemble mini versions of what you plan to make. Flat test "tiles" will not behave the same way as a vase or bowl or mug.
  8. Somewhere (on a different computer) I have a chart that has litres down the left column and kgs of plaster in the centre column, and mould volume in the right column. That way, I can choose a volume close to required, and read off weight of plaster and volume of water. I don't weigh the water, the chart shows nice round numbers of litres. Easier to measure water in graduated jug than to weigh it. Only have small scales at the studio. Edited to add: Found this in my gallery, have an updated one somewhere with nicer numbers in the water column.
  9. @Barbsbus 4 fun As Babs says please make sure your new kiln is properly wired in.
  10. I did this with longer, thicker wire, and had some hanging off the end. Put an bead on the end, helps to weigh the end down, helping to prevent bending the wire in the middle. Note the word "helps". Don't overload the wires.
  11. I've weighed a freshly made plaster mould, left it a week in the studio (greenhouse), weighed it again. Very little difference. Left it in a draughty place, in the sun, weighed a week later, quiet a bit lighter. The mould needs to be really, really dry. Also, different slips need different casting times and different setting/drying times. Time of year can make a difference of 3 times the casting time here. Don't give up, try to get the mould as dry as possible, don't wet the mould before pouring the slip
  12. As Callie says [ it's all a learning expsrience. I often liken it to learning to drive. Your lessons are all about learning. Not the journey, not the destination, only the how and why. Same with learning to write. Form words, make sentences, it's always a while before the first novel emerges. I've known people attend an evening class for a year and never have anything to fire. But they were happy, and eventually turned into a very competent hobby potter.
  13. Probably, possibly, maybe. My kiln came with very basic on/off/temp dials. I bought a Stafford controller which replaced that box of dials. Check with suppliers, they usually know what they are selling. I fire a kiln at the community centre which has an Ipco controller. Does the same job as my home kiln's Stafford, but I'm more comfortable with programming the Stafford - even though under the old "normal" I fired the center kiln most weeks.
  14. Test "tiles" need to reflect the type of pot you will ultimately be making. Glazes react differently on horizontal vs vertical surfaces. They react differently inside and outside of mugs. They react differently on large and small items.
  15. You could use anything you want. Assuming it won't be subject to freezing temperatures you could use earthenware clay and glazes. However, I'd advise to use what you're familiar with, what you already have, what you're used to firing, what you have access to for firing. Or, experiment, buy samples of every locally available clay and play, play, play.
  16. Only way you'll believe is to try it. Start with a hair dryer, move up to a hot-air paint stripper, see how the clay dries fast and cracks easily.
  17. This commercially available mug mould (http://www.clay-king.com/pottery_wheels/hump_molds.html) shows the shape the sprue should be. The red line shows where you use a Lucy tool or similar to cut away the excess slip and gives a really clean edge. I have similar moulds, both commercial and home made and they all give a clean edge, and I've never noticed any slumping. You have to be careful not to let the slip be too thick or you risk cutting into the actual mug.
  18. Can you re-read your temperatures. They look way too high for Celsius.
  19. Hi @Emma Law. Welcome from sunny Langdon Hills, about 60 miles north of you. Depending on flatness/size of work, you can also fire on cookies/waster slabs to protect your shelves.
  20. Did you put a cone pack on each shelf? Probably a different temperature on each shelf.
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