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Everything posted by Chilly

  1. Make a test tile. Like a mini chess board. On each square, do 1, 2, 3 and 4 coats of your medium. Then add a dab of clear glaze in the centre of each square, so some of the medium is left unglazed. Take a photo and write on the photo which colour is where. Make sure you know which is top and bottom. When fired, you will have a reference showing light coats, medium coats, heavy coats, with and without glaze. I could spend a whole lifetime making tests like this. Can also do colour a over colour b.................
  2. And here are the finished vases, not on the workbench, but on the hearth.
  3. I too want to ask this. In the UK, every electric kiln I have used will not work if the lid or door is not fully shut. One, in a school, had a weird key like object that had to be removed from the door lock, and inserted into the controller before the controller would work. And it could only be removed from the door if that was shut. It was a bit of a safety overhead, as a number of times, I would be just about to switch it on and would see a pot that had not got in.
  4. I made some pots a week or so ago and now they're dry. So today's task was to load and fire the kiln. Before that could happen, of course, I had to make space to roll the kiln out from under the greenhouse staging, and into the middle of the floor. So I also had to move stuff away from the kiln, and from on top of the kiln. Also had to lift and store the anti-fatigue mats that keep my feet warm. Then had to sweep the floor. Silver birch seeds get everywhere!
  5. As Johnny says, make sure it is absolutely, completely, totally dry. One problem with drying thick pieces: as the outer surface dries, it shrinks and makes a crust. The inner moisture now has more and more difficulty evaporating to the outside. Fire it very, very slowly so the moisture can escape slowly. Depending on the clay body, you can probably fire it anyway up that fits in the kiln. So long as it is dry.
  6. That's interesting. Mind goes off on a wander - how can I utilise this feature ................. experiments on their way.
  7. Sticking dry clay "chips" back on Eating/drinking in the studio Finessing after I've removed my apron
  8. Is this for a glaze or bisque fire? 1/2" kiln posts is very low gap. If for bisque, have you tried tumble-stacking?
  9. They crumble into nothingness-ish after firing. Maybe, maybe not. I had a porcelain spoon rest (resembled a whale tail) slump to complete flatness. It was born flat under a slab roller, and bent into shape. Next version was born raised (one of my few successful thrown and cut objects) and didn't slump.
  10. Unlikely to bond together. Think how much effort we all go to, to ensure a handle stays attached to it's cup or mug.
  11. What @Hulk said! Front/thicker pot is probably underfired.
  12. This week's effort: Somewhere in there is a matching set of 4, to replace the set that are too friendly with gravity!
  13. I've edited my original text to include "by no more than".........
  14. I think I'd do a dimple sample - slab of clay with dimples pushed in (last time I used a film cannister). Each dimple contains a different sample, Glaze over Ash. Ash over glaze. Ash in glaze. 2/3/4/5 rows of 3 each row a different % of Ash.
  15. I do this too. If not in a hurry, spray, stack and wrap in a damp towel, then in plastic.Wait 24 hours. If in a hurry, I slam wedge - stack, drop onto floor, squat, pick up, cut in half (like a sandwich), stack, drop, squat............. Do that 20 times and it really evens out the moisture. If you drop onto a piece of plastic, you can grab the side edge of the plastic and roll the clay into the other hand.
  16. I bet there's a fair few of us have had to take a second look at the shelf, thinking it's one of our own, from the past!
  17. If you want it slower, use a number lower than 9999, say 200, then the kiln will drop by no more than 200deg per hour until it meets the next target temp. For example, the following would crash cool until it reached 1,200, hold for 10 minutes, then cool by no more than 200 deg per hour until it reaches 600 (which will take at least 3 hours), hold for 15 minutes, etc. 9999, 1200, 10 200, 600, 15
  18. If, say, you were prepared to have the top inch of the handle unglazed, you could make a stand with holes, and put the spoon handle into the hole, with the bowl end upwards for firing. There is a risk the porcelain could sag tho'.
  19. lol, I had the same problem with adults and computer training. I turned "Press any key" into "Press the space bar". Stopped me having a roomful of errrrrrs and ahhhhhs and non-action.
  20. Unless you have very accurate milligram scales, you could try dissolving/mixing with water/gum solution so you can use a syringe to add tiny amounts.
  21. I can't throw, (too many neck/shoulder injuries), but I did try for a while. One thing I learned - if you can't make a good cylinder in the first few minutes, ditch that lump of clay and get another. Don't fight for hours with the same lump of clay. It's like it knows you're not in charge and continues to fight. And like everyone says, practise as often as you can, for increasing amounts of time. Say 10 minutes a day week 1. 20 minutes a day week 2. Build muscle memory and physical tolerance gradually.
  22. Cut off top of a plastic bottle. Cut the bottom off a funnel. Yoghurt pot. Flower pot. Blah blah blah
  23. I have moulds with and without handles. As Mark says, the with handles are a pain in the ..... The slip is never thick enough in the handle. I also have handle moulds in their own right. They too are a pain. My favourite way for consistent and quick handles is an open, handle-shaped press mould. I roll a coil bigger than needed and press it into the mould, let it set up for a short time, (or a long time in the winter) then finesse it before attaching.
  24. I think the only way you will get a really textured outside, say fluted, and a really smooth inside is to use a jigger/jolley set-up. Google that and cup, there are loads of YouTube vids.
  25. That controller looks really restrictive. My kiln came with fully manual controls. I researched long and hard before buying my Stafford controller. Not an electrician, so don't know if you can swap to a different brand. With mine it was just a case of unwire one box, and wire up new box. Really worthwhile if you can.
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