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Found 22 results

  1. I've been doing clay for a while now, so not a total noob, but have had my biggest disaster in clay to date. I have to admit I have not done a ton of hand building in the last few years, but have done enough to know the basics. I was hand-building some larger pieces. Scored and slip attachments to sides. (The same way I have scored for ten years without having issues.) I dried them very slowly under plastic, as I live in northern Arizona and things dry way too fast here. They were built with Laguna's Rod's Bod. I built each piece one at a time, during the day, so the slabs would be
  2. I’m using plain terra sig made with xx saggar on Laguna 80 red clay. I bisqued and remained waxy and white. Perfect. then I added Psuedo Celedon glaze to the interior of the cylinder. Some dripped so I wiped off the whole pot with a wet clean sponge. When it dried, the white Terra Sig started turning bright yellow. Marker yellow. Won’t wash off... Any idea why this would happen?
  3. I’m new to ceramics and recently bought a used kiln that’s quite old but works like a charm. i don’t really know what the numbers on the knobs are and I’m trying to bisque cone 06 and glaze cone 6. I don’t have pyrometic bars for the cone 06 bisque so any help on what the numbers on the knobs signify and how to reach the desired temp would be awesome. (I do have glass cone 6 bars)
  4. Just asking because . Whe bisquing I have all bunbgs out till 700degC then put all in except one on lid, top loader electric. Done this for years, still solid logic? No vent
  5. Hello! I just did a bisque firing with my Paragon A55B which has a manual kiln sitter. I fired to 06 in only 3 hours and 15 minutes following the suggested firing schedule from paragon. Which was as follows: 1 hour - Low, Top peephole out, lid vented 30 min - Medium, top peephole out, lid vented 30 min - High, top peephole out, lid vented Then just leave on high with peepholes in and lid closed. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best way to slow this cycle down a bit? Or do you think thats fine for a bisque? I imagine with more pots in it, it will slow it d
  6. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day
  7. Hi, I am using Flax Paper Clay Porcelain ES6000 to make some small flowers and the finished pieces are around 1cm thick at the fattest point. The issue I have is that I have no idea how to go about firing and glazing porcelain. Do I bisque fire porcelain? If yes what temperature should I fire to? Can I fire porcelain in the same firing as other clays (B17C Stoneware) ? Looking on the Scarva website it says the firing temperature is 1220ºC - 1280ºC but I am unsure as to what temperature the clay stops being able to absorb glaze? Thank you so much in advance!!
  8. Hi, Hope this hasn't been asked anywhere else and I'm repeating a question but I've scoured the internet and can't find much of help... Even though I have studied ceramics at 2 levels, during neither course were we taught about firing schedules... Over the past few years I've been using and tweaking schedules given to me by an amateur potter friend but they aren't cutting it anymore. I've recently been approached by 2 shops/galleries who want to sell my work but glaze faults are making it difficult for me to be happy with results as I can't seem to avoid miniature pinholing and am wo
  9. Hello! Does anybody have experience firing Standard Clay 112 or 182 to cone 06/6? These are the clays that I work with and typically my studio fires to cone 05/5. However, I have recently started working out of home and found a studio nearby that will fire my work, but to cone 06/6. I want to be sure that I like the result before committing to the change.
  10. Hi Everyone! Hoping to get some tips on using Amaco bisque fix, before I use on some of my pieces. I know this can be great for sealing cracks, but the problem I have run into is that my stamp does not press into greenware well. I wish I had tried to fix with slip before firing, but I was working too quickly. I do not want to give up some of these pieces since this is just the bottom! And they otherwise look nice. My plan was to try using bisque fix to fill in the stamp impression, sand the piece, and paint over with white underglaze. Then I can ideally re-stamp with underglaze inst
  11. HI, I have a really long hairline crack in a sculpture that just came out of bisque fire :/ The crack is from the base to the neck, goes all the way through but very thin. Been doing research regarding Bisque fix, Mend it and paper clay. Looking for advise on which is better for hairline as cannot assure product completely fills the middle. Really want to glaze this to cone 6 without it separating even if I have to rebisque.,
  12. Hello, I recently bought some OH10 (they were out of OH6) and was told I could just fire at cone 6 and everything would be fine. Then I was told the pieces wouldn’t vitrify and would be too porous for use (mugs and bowls). The studio will bisque the OH10 for me and asked if I have my own cone 10 glazes. The question is, can I fire my cone 6 glazes on the cone 10 bisqued pieces? Thank you for the help! Josh
  13. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructo
  14. Hi everyone, I have recently got an Uhlig U 500T kiln. I have never fired anything before and it gives me a really hard time to understand how to operate this one particularly, because there seems to be no resource or manual on the internet (the only thing that came with it is in German and kind of explaining how to use the controller tho). As far as I understood the slowest possible heating is to 500C in 5 hours. My pieces are quite thin and dry so I am hoping this is fine. Still, I am wondering is it really possible that this is the slowest option? My plan is for bisque
  15. Hello all, Looking for firing schedules. I have a small manual electric kiln with a kiln sitter and wondering if anyone has a simple, clear firing schedule they follow and could share? I am a beginner trying to learn how to fire for Cone 04 Bisque and then another schedule for Cone 6 Glaze Fire. I am using buff stoneware. Any firing tips appreciated! Thanks so much, Natalie
  16. I somehow managed to put on a 15 hour HOLD instead of a 15 hour delay on a bisque meant for cone 04. Any ideas as to what cone that actually hit? I’m so scared to open the kiln. Still cooling. It held around 1900° for 15 hours. Clay is cone 6.
  17. Hi all, I'm just wondering what the lowest acceptable bisque firing temperature would be - and why? I usually single-fire my pottery but occasionally I like to brush on and sponge off a watered down underglaze (so it clings to the texture) before glaze firing. So...could I technically bisque fire at a much lower temperature because all I need is a porous surface? Thank you in advance.
  18. I have a lot of different items my students made and for the first time I am working with the Velvet Underglazes from Amaco, they are now bonedry, I mean really bonedry! Can I stack underglazed pots in underglazed pots to be bisqued or will they fuse. Would it also fuse on the shelves if some of the underglaze is on the bottom of the pots. To be safe I have cleaned all the bottoms and it was quite tedious. I am ready for the first bisque fire and will post the before and after shortly.
  19. From the album: Ceramics Fall 2016

    Bisqued Sake set. This was glazed in tenmoku and I will grab photos of them later today. Since my work is fired in a classroom setting, all my cups were placed in different areas of the kiln, so each one looks slightly different.
  20. From the album: Tornado Pot Sketches and Progress Images

    For those who have been following along with the drama of making "F3 - The Wizard of Oz" tornado container, this second version survived the bisque firing and awaits detailing with underglaze and glazing...hopefully, a single glaze firing and perhaps a single decal firing. Read more about this project and projects by other artists in the Ceramic Arts Community Forum - "Community Challenge #2".
  21. From the album: What I am up to

    Same stuff diferent view.
  22. From the album: What I am up to

    Side view of the mug and bowls after the glaze has been applied. Now just a little cone six firing away from the finished product.
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