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Found 38 results

  1. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  2. Hello, I recently bought some OH10 (they were out of OH6) and was told I could just fire at cone 6 and everything would be fine. Then I was told the pieces wouldn’t vitrify and would be too porous for use (mugs and bowls). The studio will bisque the OH10 for me and asked if I have my own cone 10 glazes. The question is, can I fire my cone 6 glazes on the cone 10 bisqued pieces? Thank you for the help! Josh
  3. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructor must have felt really bad for me, because as I was sticking the pieces back on the rack and deciding whether or not to trash them she came over and decided my stuff was special enough that we were going to try a risky operation, putting both pieces through both bisque firing and final firing despite them being glazed out of order. She says that the color won't be as consistent and you couldn't eat off of them (fine by me, because they're not dishes), but they should still stick together and come out okay. Before we try this, however, I wanted to take some initiative and research both the risks of this test and any alternatives. Despite my excellent googling skills, I haven't been able to find an article or forum topic specific enough to my situation, so I figured I'd start one myself. Any and all information you can give me will be useful. I just want to know what might happen if we try to fire this thing and/or if there are any other ways to save the work with less risk involved.
  4. Hi everyone, I have recently got an Uhlig U 500T kiln. I have never fired anything before and it gives me a really hard time to understand how to operate this one particularly, because there seems to be no resource or manual on the internet (the only thing that came with it is in German and kind of explaining how to use the controller tho). As far as I understood the slowest possible heating is to 500C in 5 hours. My pieces are quite thin and dry so I am hoping this is fine. Still, I am wondering is it really possible that this is the slowest option? My plan is for bisque firing my pieces then, to set it to 500C in 5h and then leave the vent open for 1-2 hours (while testing the steam). After the 5 hours, set it to 950C as the end temperature and chose a shorter time maybe 3 or 4 hours. Anyone more experienced than me, does this sound alright? Thank you very much!
  5. Hello all, Looking for firing schedules. I have a small manual electric kiln with a kiln sitter and wondering if anyone has a simple, clear firing schedule they follow and could share? I am a beginner trying to learn how to fire for Cone 04 Bisque and then another schedule for Cone 6 Glaze Fire. I am using buff stoneware. Any firing tips appreciated! Thanks so much, Natalie
  6. I somehow managed to put on a 15 hour HOLD instead of a 15 hour delay on a bisque meant for cone 04. Any ideas as to what cone that actually hit? I’m so scared to open the kiln. Still cooling. It held around 1900° for 15 hours. Clay is cone 6.
  7. Hi all, I'm just wondering what the lowest acceptable bisque firing temperature would be - and why? I usually single-fire my pottery but occasionally I like to brush on and sponge off a watered down underglaze (so it clings to the texture) before glaze firing. So...could I technically bisque fire at a much lower temperature because all I need is a porous surface? Thank you in advance.
  8. I have a lot of different items my students made and for the first time I am working with the Velvet Underglazes from Amaco, they are now bonedry, I mean really bonedry! Can I stack underglazed pots in underglazed pots to be bisqued or will they fuse. Would it also fuse on the shelves if some of the underglaze is on the bottom of the pots. To be safe I have cleaned all the bottoms and it was quite tedious. I am ready for the first bisque fire and will post the before and after shortly.
  9. I have never done ceramics seriously but for my architecture course I am designing a pottery workshop. I've read up about bisque firing schedules, and there's mention of monitoring the kiln at regular intervals. If the low-heat warm up is happening overnight as I've seen recommended, does that mean you essentially sleep by the kiln as it were? Or would you be able to go home and sleep in your bed safe in the knowledge that things are as they should be? If it's any help, I will probably design around using an electric kiln. Basically I want to know if I would have to include a bed in my workshop design! Space is limited as it is, so I would really need to justify it.
  10. Hello All, So I just completed my first bisque firing and took a quick peak at the top shelf (Temp is 250F). The witness cones are not what I expected. Left to right 05,06,07. Kiln was fired to cone 06 slow and took 12h 26 minutes to complete. Is it possible the 06 cone bent more because of the slow bisque? I expected the 06 to be slightly bent. The top shelf was high about 3" from the kiln lid. Also wondering if i didnt leave enough room perhaps. Although this doesn't sound likely to me
  11. So I have a tiny hairline crack after bisque and I was going to try the spooze recipe I found here to fix it. 1/3 parts dry clay powdered....any body...preferably the one you are using with no grog 1/3 parts heavy karo syrup 1/3 parts white distilled vinegar drop of hydrogen peroxide Should I be using dry powdered clay that has already been bisqued or does it matter? And I just bisque again after I apply it, correct? I have some of the Amaco bisque fix - and it works - but it fires so white, afraid it might not match Thanks in advance!
  12. Hello! I had a couple of pieces that, freakishly, dried just fine...evenly...even thickness...all around good slab pieces... cracked in the kiln! I fired at the correct temp and somehow this happened. I've read about magic mud...and I was under the impression that it could be used on bisque fired pieces. However, my instructor told me that it couldn't? I wanted to see what everyone thought?
  13. Hello I have recently acquired a small kiln for use at home (Hobbytech 40). It works and I’m happy with it for the most part, but when I have bisque fired plates, they crack during firing, down the middle to about halfway across the plate. This must be a fault when I’m making the items. Can anyone tell me what could be causing this so that I don’t waste efforts making anymore to be disappointed when they’re fired? I’ve not had this happen with plates I’ve made in my ceramic lessons. Some are wheel thrown, some are made from slabs. Clay bodies used are lavafleck stoneware, or white special stoneware. Are these plates now only good for the bin? Photos attached.
  14. I have a bisque fired ceramic with a large crack in it and have heard many times that 'Paper Clay' is the answer - slip/clay + magic water + toilet paper (c. 30%). I've looked all over but can't seem to find the answer to what state the clay should be in when making the paper clay for a bisque fired piece. One article suggested I needed to bisque fire a piece of the same clay, then grind it down into a powder and then mix/blend it with the paper and magic water. But most articles don't mention the bisque firing part. Do I need to bisque fire a lump of clay or is it OK to make up the paper clay with raw slip/clay and then bisque fire again the whole piece? Many thanks for whoever can give me some clarity on this!
  15. I'm working with B3Brown (Laguna) and I really like the color and surface texture when it is fired (C5). BUT stoneware glazes I use are bubbly/pin holed and dull - not matte but dull in color and surface. Lower fire glazes are fine if I refire at 05. I'm planning to bisque, fire to maturity, and then glaze fire at lowfire range. My question is, can I skip the bisque firing and fire greenware to cone 5, glaze, and fire to cone 05? Would that be too much shock for the greenware? I will test as needed but thought someone might know. Thanks!
  16. Hi everyone, What will happen to bisque work that has fired too hot for too long? I fired a bisque on Thursday night, and realized on Tuesday morning when I checked it that it was still at 1234 degrees and not cooling. It said "Complete". I hit stop, and it didn't begin cooling (although said Idle), so I turned off the circuit breaker. I have a kiln electrician coming out to check on the kiln, but my biggest concern is the work inside (not my work, but student work). I assume it's ruined?
  17. HELP! I screwed up my bisque firing and fired at cone 5 instead of 05. Major button pushing error. Can I still glaze my pieces and fire them at cone 5 again? Any suggestions of how to make the glaze stick to the bisque since it is so no porous? Thanks for any help.
  18. First, thank you for all the amazing information here. I've spent all of my recent free time perusing every page. I have absorbed an incredible amount of information that directly addresses things I've been stumped by and also answering questions that I didn't even realize I had. For now, 2 questions regarding bisque firing: I am using a small electric test kiln and doing various types of small items (pendants, ceramic light switches, garden art designs, etc.) I'm confused whether I need to prop the lid open a bit during an initial hour or two of firing for vapor release? What difference does it make whether I do a "fast" or "slow" firing? Thank you : )
  19. Hello helpful potters! I need help with an 04 bisque firing schedule. I'm having problems with pinholing in the 266 Standard Ceramic cone 4-6 dark brown clay that I'm using. About 50% of the time I'm getting a few pinholes, generally on the bottom but also on the sides. When I slow glaze, my cone 5 witnesses goes all the way down and the 6s are at about 2:00. The glaze I'm using is Potters Choice for cone 5/6, 3 coats as suggested by Amaco Brent, and this problem is happening pretty much just on the 266 and not the lighter color clays I use. I know pinholing can be a symptom of a variety of things, but I'm ready to try a slower bisque schedule in case they're being caused by gases or other impurities that haven't completely burned out during the bisque. Maybe it should go faster to 1100 and then slower for the next 1000 degrees? Or have a hold in there somewhere? I've tried to work out a schedule myself but it always ends up being about 18 hours long. Here's the cone 04 preset firing schedule I'm using in my LL kiln: 80 per hour to 250 (2 hrs) 200 per hour to 1100 (4 hours) 100 per hour to 1100 (1 hour) 180 per hour to 1676 (3 hours) 80 per hour to 1926 I also add a 10 minute hold at the end. When I use this cycle it tells me the end temp will be 1945 instead of 1926, ( 1926 is what it says on this firing schedule. It does end up at around 1945. I unplug the vent when it's done firing. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated, as would any suggestions about other things I may be doing, or not doing, that could be causing the pinholing. oh also I don't stack my bisque in the kiln. Would stilting the pieces give better air flow or deform them? Thanks! Irene
  20. It is currently 27 degrees in NY and I can not tell if my green ware is completely dry. I loaded my kiln today for a firing in 2 days and I am thinking of preheating it for 2 hours to dry it out. Is this possible and worth it? I am also trying to avoid an extra 2 hours in firing.
  21. Dear all, This is a rather odd post in that i am brand new to pottery and manage an art studio in a resort in the Maldives. I have received a kiln from China which is a front loading, electric machine with no pre programmed programmes.... I have amaco low fire clay (red and white) and am wondering what to input in my kiln for bisque firing. The clay is to be fired to cone 04 1077 degrees C, but im not sure on the ramp/timings? I'm really stuck with this now....there doesn't seem to be any clear info available to me online and the supplier sent me instructions on HOW to programme but not what to input (understandable). If anyone can give me a nice step by step explanation on what to input, temps, for how long (whole profile) I would be so grateful! Does anyone use the Amaco low fire clay? Many humble thanks in advance! Melissa
  22. From the album: Ceramics Fall 2016

    Bisqued Sake set. This was glazed in tenmoku and I will grab photos of them later today. Since my work is fired in a classroom setting, all my cups were placed in different areas of the kiln, so each one looks slightly different.
  23. Guys I'm having a serious issue, almost every bisque I have done recently in my new kiln sitter is having explosions. I have been letting my clay sit out longer and get even more bone dry yet it still keeps happening. I've made sure no air bubbles except for one piece had them however this is becoming an issue. Any help or something someone might recommend would be great! With the kiln being a kiln sitter I don't have much control to do holds I can only control the switches on the way up which I have lengthened a lot but once I hit the second switch everything goes boom, very discouraging
  24. Hi, I have been working on some old men busts, and I have a question about paper trapped in the head. I built a wooden armature for the work and made a paper ball to use as a mould for the inside of the head. After removing the armature and as much of the paper as I can there is still some paper trapped inside. I have let the head dry very completely, are there any concerns with firing in an electric kiln with some paper left in the head? The bust is not terribly large (9" or so), and I used 1 sheet of paper from a local flyer. I would estimate that I got about 50% of it out. I realize that I could have cut the top of the head open to fish out the paper and reattach, but I plan to Raku this and didn’t want the seam where I reattached to be a weak spot. Thoughts? Thanks ~Mal
  25. Hi, I have an unfired pot (cone 5/6 clay) that has had raw Cone 6 glaze (Coyote Alabaster Satin) applied to the inside. Can I fire this raw pot at bisque temp, leaving the applied glaze inside and then fire again at Cone 6 later? I was going to once fire this pot... but thinking now it would be a better plan to bisque at least a little first since it has some fairly fragile embellishments. Hope this makes sense Thanks!
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