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  1. Just asking because . Whe bisquing I have all bunbgs out till 700degC then put all in except one on lid, top loader electric. Done this for years, still solid logic? No vent
  2. Hi, new to these forums but really wanted to get some advice. I own my own small ceramic studio, I've been doing my own work all through the pandemic as I've not been able to teach. To try and save time, money I decided to try the one firing technique. First few bits of work came out ok. But the past two lots (and it's been a lot of work, a full kiln ) have either exploded or the glaze has just now worked. I think I'm being counter productive with my work. I have lots of pieces I can't use and now have to make more to cover orders ! Just wanted some thoughts on this process ! Is it worth the time and effort or should I go back to my original bisque and then glaze firing. ? Maybe I'm rushing or doing something wrong ? It's always been a difficult subject to approach with other potter's in the past.....as it's not regarded as 'good practice' . Be nice to hear the for's and against please ? Thanks in advance . Jayne
  3. Hello! I just did a bisque firing with my Paragon A55B which has a manual kiln sitter. I fired to 06 in only 3 hours and 15 minutes following the suggested firing schedule from paragon. Which was as follows: 1 hour - Low, Top peephole out, lid vented 30 min - Medium, top peephole out, lid vented 30 min - High, top peephole out, lid vented Then just leave on high with peepholes in and lid closed. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best way to slow this cycle down a bit? Or do you think thats fine for a bisque? I imagine with more pots in it, it will slow it down a bit but its a small kiln and doesn't hold that much. Thanks!! Ariel
  4. Hi ceramics community! I have a kiln question. I inherited a Cress model e23 kiln from 2001 (automatic). It is mostly in good working condition and I have had a professional electrician configure all my wiring and test my voltage etc. and confirm the kiln is wired properly and should operate at 100%. However, I have had ongoing issues and inconsistencies with my firings. I use all cone 5 laguna clays and glaze - bisque to 04 slow and glaze fire cone 5 medium. The issue arises when I program my glaze firings - I initially select my program and things seem to be going well up until the end of the firing. The preview indicates that the kiln is trying to reach 2165 until the last ~30mins when suddenly the projected temp changes to 2181+. This temp is too hot for my glazes and has caused a multitude of issues such as blistering, over-running etc. I usually end up turning my kiln off manually at 2165 but you can imagine this is frustrating knowing I have to be very present with the kiln at the end of the firing otherwise it will not shut off automatically and over fire my work. Plus I’m unsure that if I manually shut it off that I get a controlled cooling cycle. (??) The manufacturer help me set a custom ramp-hold program to mimic a factory cone 5 medium firing and it sometimes shuts off automatically at 2165, but sometimes does the same thing (continues to increase in temp. At the end) he has not recommended anything else or have an idea why this is happening besides possibly an issue with my voltage, which, like I said, has been ruled out by my electrician. I understand tightly packed kilns can take a bit longer sometimes, but why would my cone 5 program be climbing up to cone 6 and beyond? so I suppose my questions are: why is this happening? Is this just a cress kiln thing? does anyone have a go-to custom ramp hold recommendation for laguna cone 5 clays and glazes? sincerely, madeline (a potter who desperately needs a kiln mentor LOL)
  5. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  6. Weekend - May 21-23, 2021 Alternative Firing Workshop Jessica Wilson Explore the hands-on process of raku, pit and horse hair firing in this intense course. Be prepared to work hard in a hot environment and to welcome the unexpected and unpredictable! Bring lots of bisque-fired pots and leave with unique, one-of-a-kind, finished pots. Intermediate $360 Registration and Information
  7. Hi everyone. I am in need of somewhere I can fire a kiln in Orange County, California. I live in an apartment and don't have the electrical or space necessary to do so. I've been given an old Duncan kiln, in rough shape, from a friend who didn't know how to use it. Looking for someone with a garage or private space to fire this or their kiln, some sort of kiln-sharing or kiln-coop situation. I have studios I take my work to fire to, but it is not ideal since pricing is more than it would be on my own, and since I can only reserve so many kiln loads. I need to be able to fire more frequently. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks so much! Kathy
  8. When I am firing my electric kiln, I start with the lid propped open about 2 inches and the top peephole out. Then at around 1000 degrees F I shut the lid. The top peephole is open the whole time. I understand that the lid needs to be propped to allow moisture and gasses to escape in the early stages of firing. My questions are: 1) is 1000F an appropriate temp to close the lid? 2) Is it necessary to prop the lid on a ^6 glaze firing as well as the bisque, or only during the bisque (^06) I have been firing this way for a couple years and the pots always come out well. However the lid has badly cracked on both the inside and outside, necessitating repair with kiln cement. I have a large electric Skutt Kiln (I think it's the 1227). Even with my repair, it is all fractured and occasionally falls onto the pots below. The metal handle is also badly rusted and corroded, an issue I didn't notice when I bought this kiln used a couple years ago. I notice when I close the lid on an 1000F kiln it makes a soft settling crackling noise. I am curious if the cracking lid is from thermal shock when it goes from hot room temp to 1000F. Because of this, i wonder if it's better not to close it so late (and hot) in the firing. Perhaps it's just time for an envirovent. Is it normal for a lid to start to deteriorate like this? The newer versions of my kiln are made with the hydraulic lid lifter, which I assume lifts it more evenly, without the torque from supporting it on just one part. Please let me know if anyone else has had this cracking lid issue. -Dana
  9. I've been having problems with pitting in glazes lately and am wondering is it good practice to fire an empty kiln to burn off any potential lingering fumes to help glazes? Have been firing non-stop with about 2 months now, and in the last few weeks a lot of work is coming out of the kiln with pits. Have been in touch with my clay and glaze supplier and they are stumped! Have tried many firing schedules, from slow to fast, with up to 45min soaks at top temp and tried a drop and hold schedule but nothing seems to work. Have also tried bisque firing high to 1020oC with a 45min soak at 780oC on the way up and 45min at top temp but no success. It leaves me wondering should I fire an empty kiln, and would that "freshen up" the atmosphere within? Could the bricks be holding onto residual fumes from firings and could this be causing the glaze issue? I have an extraction fan that runs for the full firing until the firing is finished. And allow the kiln to cool naturally with the fresh air valve closed (as per operational instructions). Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  10. Hi there. I recently glazed some items on white stoneware clay. The clay (White Stoneware PF560) was glazed fired after being bisqued at : room --> 600 degrees C at 100 deg/c per hour 600 -> 1230 at 150 deg/c per hour 20 min soak It came out really patchy and there are some air bubbles. If anyone could recommend good firing ramp for this glaze in degrees celcis with timing that would be great - thanks so much Terracolor orange Ember - https://www.scarva.com/en/gb/Terracolor-FS6031-Orange-Ember/m-1772.aspx was the glaze that didnt look very good! Clay was : https://www.bathpotters.co.uk/white-stoneware-pf560
  11. Hello! I am just getting started on my own pottery studio. I recently bought my Duncan ES 1020 energy saver kiln and came it with nothing. I have been searching high and low for an owners manual and I can't find anything that says "ES" on it. So, is there any differences between the Duncan ES 1020 and the Duncan EA 1020? Could I use the Duncan EA 1020 manual? I'm new to doing this on my own so any advice at all would be greatly appreciated!
  12. Reaching out for some advice. I have made some large slip cast fish that will be mounted on steel posts in a garden installation. They fish are hollow and have a 1" round hole in the bottom of them to insert the stand/pole. I have glazed the first two and used picks to support but the weight and heat of cone 6 melted them onto the fish. So..... I went fishing for an idea and made a stand with the same clay with a post that touches the top of fish and wedges against the entry hole to hold fish in air so it can be glazed in the round. I have bisqued it and it seem strong but will it just collapse at cone 6? Should I cone 6 it before I put the bisqued glazed fish on it to fire? The fish really shrink so will check I can get the support out after. Other option is maybe to find a round pillar of cone furniture and adjust the hole so I can use that with some additional stabilization of base.
  13. Hello, I have a new L&L Fuego kiln, I did a test firing. The kiln has standard settings for bisque and glaze, bisque is cone 04, glaze is cone 06 - I can programme it differently, but starting out with the their settings. I bisque fired some small vulcan black clay pieces using the glaze setting because I read that the clay required that temperature. I was surprised with the colour, expected it to be more black. Then I glazed them with clear glaze, and two different celedon glazes and put them through a glaze fire again. An electrician (annoyingly) shut off the kiln an hour into the the fire and I just restarted it fresh. They came out this morning all powdery and I am not sure what I did wrong. The kiln is brand new, it has a temperature reader and I checked and the temp did get high, I dont have cones in the kiln. Thank you! UPDATE - I defo didn't fire hot enough so refired at cone 6 - however, I should have maybe re glazed? Also I used a ceyladon glaze and I think I need something much more opaque for the black clay.... LEARNING CURVE!!!
  14. Hello I have been using a Hobbytech 40 kiln for a few years, I think early 90s age but it could be older. The label has burnt off. I run it off a 13amp supply. The kiln isn’t in the best of condition. I am planning on buying a larger, more suitable kiln in the coming weeks but until then, I have to make do and mend. Over the last few months, the wires are burning out and firing is becoming tricky. I have to replace the wires ever 4-5 firings. The usual wire to go if the one at the top element connection. Anybody got any idea what would be causing this? I have removed and repacked the insulation as I could see some heat could be escaping, but the problem continues to happen. As you can see from photo, wires on right hand side to the lid safety switch are also now damaged from heat. Are these straightforward to replace? I was considering having a kiln engineer come to look at this, but the quote for the service alone without parts was over £350 (I only paid £300 for the kiln several years ago, and I’ve got more than £300 worth of work out of it). Any help from a knowledgeable person would be appreciated. Thanks.
  15. Hi there. I have two types of clay and I was wondering what the best firing schedule is for them for bisque? I have an electric Nabetherm kiln and I am making bowls/mugs. I don't really understand cones and so if possible, please explain using degrees C! Grogged Buff EarthenWare clay - Firing Temp.1000-1280deg.C Stoneware Special Fleck Clay - 1120∞c - 1280∞c Thank you !
  16. Hello! I recently purchased some Laguna Speckled Buff (WC-403) and have been throwing some pieces on the wheel. I have been looking for a perfect honey brown/light tan speckled clay and finally came across this one. Anyway, I made and fired some pieces with a Cone 6 cone in the kiln sitter and everything turned out kind of burned (?) looking and darker than I was expecting. I fired some more pieces but this time put a Cone 5 bar in the kiln sitter and got almost the same result My glazes also aren't showing up as well. Does anyone have any ideas of why it is coming out like this or have any advice? Thanks a bunch!
  17. Hi there, I have Amaco Potters Choice glazes and they say that they should be fired to cone 5/6. I am very new to pottery and was wondering what this means in terms of the firing schedule in my Nabetherm kiln. I have been trying to get the effects as shown on their website but they do not look very similar! What would the different outcomes of cone 5 and 6 be? Thanks so much and really appreciate any help, lara
  18. Hi, newbie potter here, I'm having some issue with a brand new Rohde ecotop 60s kiln and I'm not sure if it's something normal or I had bad luck and received a bad kiln. I hope all the experienced people in this forum can help me out. I've just bough a new Rohde ecotop kiln (my first ever kiln) and after ONLY THREE FIRINGS the rope insulation on the outside of the barrel looks burned and the steel ring holding the lid is all stained from the heat. The lid doesn't sit fully on the brick walls letting heat escape, which caused the damage I think. As said I only fired 3 times at: 1000 C 1000 C 1230 C The Kiln is rated at 1320 C so all were well below the maximum. I'm attaching pictures I took after the third firing, these are all at room temperature after it's completely cooled down. Rohde says it's all fine but I feel they're just trying to avoid responsibility. They asked me to loosen the metal band round the lid and just press the bricks down. I've done that very carefully and the bricks have come down quite a bit but there's still a very visible gap. Also doing this caused some cracks on the lid bricks. In your experience are these things normal for such a new kiln? Or did I have bad luck receiving a bad kiln and I should try to send it back? Thank you for your help
  19. Hi all! I am trying to make a small pizza oven out of raku clay. Any suggestions would be welcome, but especially any answers to: 1. How thick should the walls be? 2. Can I "self-fire" the oven by building a small fire inside instead of firing it in a kiln? I dont have my own kiln, and firing it locally could get pricey.
  20. Hi, I Bisqued this pot to 04 slowly. As you can see in the picture it goes almost full height of my kiln. I had half shelves stacked with ware from bottom to top next to it. The cone at the top of the kiln bent to touch the shelf, the cone at the bottom of the kiln bent to 3 o’clock. I am concerned that when I go to Cone 6, there will be too much stress at that temperature difference and this will cause a crack. I thought maybe I should do a hold somewhere in the firing to give it a chance to even out. The top will be off when I fire. It is on a thin bed of grog because I’m paranoid about the flat bottom cracking. It is glazed with a clear shiny inside and a clear mat outside over the underglazes. It is hand built from 2 slabs, then shaped on wheel. What do you suggest? Thanks so much..
  21. My 6 week online course on Alternative firing techniques begins on Nov. 2-Dec 11 https://www.teachinart.com/alternative-firing.html. see more courses available online at https://www.teachinart.com. Marcia
  22. Hi, I am using Flax Paper Clay Porcelain ES6000 to make some small flowers and the finished pieces are around 1cm thick at the fattest point. The issue I have is that I have no idea how to go about firing and glazing porcelain. Do I bisque fire porcelain? If yes what temperature should I fire to? Can I fire porcelain in the same firing as other clays (B17C Stoneware) ? Looking on the Scarva website it says the firing temperature is 1220ºC - 1280ºC but I am unsure as to what temperature the clay stops being able to absorb glaze? Thank you so much in advance!!
  23. Hello, I recently graduated, but while I was in school, (and learning how to fire a kiln) I came across two common issues. The first was that everyone said to use a kiln log. (Although no one had a log handy when asked) And that the act of making a log was cumbersome. (To the point that when a log was found, the most critical data at the end was usually incomplete) So I taught myself how to code, and created an app to solve (my highly specific) problem! https://apps.apple.com/us/app/blaze-kiln-log/id1510609232 (Or search “Blaze Kiln Log” in the App Store) The app is completely free! Although it is currently only available for iPhone. (But with plans for iPad and Mac support sometime in the future) If you’re kind enough to give it a try, I’d love to hear any feedback you have. Good or bad. You’re welcome to post it here, send me a PM, or email me through the link in the app. Also, if you have any questions, please feel free to ask, I’d love to answer them!
  24. Hi!! I have just finished a sculpture of a baby using smooth red clay. This is my third clay sculpture, but first without a teacher to guide me. With my previous sculptures, it was easier to remove the armatures.. there were less detailed areas which made it less traumatic to cut open/join back together. I was also far less particular about my sculptures then as can be seen by the fact I removed the armatures far too early. Is it okay for me to leave the paper inside when I fire it? Also, how slowly should I dry it to make sure fingers, toes and ears don't crack? Any other advice? Thanks in advance
  25. Hi, Hope this hasn't been asked anywhere else and I'm repeating a question but I've scoured the internet and can't find much of help... Even though I have studied ceramics at 2 levels, during neither course were we taught about firing schedules... Over the past few years I've been using and tweaking schedules given to me by an amateur potter friend but they aren't cutting it anymore. I've recently been approached by 2 shops/galleries who want to sell my work but glaze faults are making it difficult for me to be happy with results as I can't seem to avoid miniature pinholing and am wondering if the firing schedule is the problem. I have a nabertherm top loader, and the control panel allows 5 time segments. 1. Delay 2. Ramp One 3. Ramp Two 4. Soak 5. Cooling. Currently I fire 80oc an hour for 10 hours, 100oC for 2 hours (reaching 1000oC), 15minute soak, and finish for bisque. For glost I use 150oC an hour for 5 hours, 100oC an hour for 4.5 hours (reaching 1200oC), 15min soak, and off. From reading around online I now wonder if these schedules may be too fast? Or may it be something as simple as needing elements replaced? (Although an electrician has tested them and said they're in good working order). Any advice or suggested schedules would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. P.S. I have tried multiple clay bodies so don't believe that clay is an issue. I also use an extraction fan so I don't think it is a buildup of gases within the kiln chamber either. The glazes I use are commercial and mixed by the manufacturers instructions including sieving before use.
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