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  1. When I am firing my electric kiln, I start with the lid propped open about 2 inches and the top peephole out. Then at around 1000 degrees F I shut the lid. The top peephole is open the whole time. I understand that the lid needs to be propped to allow moisture and gasses to escape in the early stages of firing. My questions are: 1) is 1000F an appropriate temp to close the lid? 2) Is it necessary to prop the lid on a ^6 glaze firing as well as the bisque, or only during the bisque (^06) I have been firing this way for a couple years and the pots always come out well. However the lid has
  2. I've been having problems with pitting in glazes lately and am wondering is it good practice to fire an empty kiln to burn off any potential lingering fumes to help glazes? Have been firing non-stop with about 2 months now, and in the last few weeks a lot of work is coming out of the kiln with pits. Have been in touch with my clay and glaze supplier and they are stumped! Have tried many firing schedules, from slow to fast, with up to 45min soaks at top temp and tried a drop and hold schedule but nothing seems to work. Have also tried bisque firing high to 1020oC with a 45min soak at
  3. Hi there. I recently glazed some items on white stoneware clay. The clay (White Stoneware PF560) was glazed fired after being bisqued at : room --> 600 degrees C at 100 deg/c per hour 600 -> 1230 at 150 deg/c per hour 20 min soak It came out really patchy and there are some air bubbles. If anyone could recommend good firing ramp for this glaze in degrees celcis with timing that would be great - thanks so much Terracolor orange Ember - https://www.scarva.com/en/gb/Terracolor-FS6031-Orange-Ember/m-1772.aspx was the glaze that didnt look very good! Cla
  4. Hello! I am just getting started on my own pottery studio. I recently bought my Duncan ES 1020 energy saver kiln and came it with nothing. I have been searching high and low for an owners manual and I can't find anything that says "ES" on it. So, is there any differences between the Duncan ES 1020 and the Duncan EA 1020? Could I use the Duncan EA 1020 manual? I'm new to doing this on my own so any advice at all would be greatly appreciated!
  5. Reaching out for some advice. I have made some large slip cast fish that will be mounted on steel posts in a garden installation. They fish are hollow and have a 1" round hole in the bottom of them to insert the stand/pole. I have glazed the first two and used picks to support but the weight and heat of cone 6 melted them onto the fish. So..... I went fishing for an idea and made a stand with the same clay with a post that touches the top of fish and wedges against the entry hole to hold fish in air so it can be glazed in the round. I have bisqued it and it seem strong but will it just
  6. Hello, I have a new L&L Fuego kiln, I did a test firing. The kiln has standard settings for bisque and glaze, bisque is cone 04, glaze is cone 06 - I can programme it differently, but starting out with the their settings. I bisque fired some small vulcan black clay pieces using the glaze setting because I read that the clay required that temperature. I was surprised with the colour, expected it to be more black. Then I glazed them with clear glaze, and two different celedon glazes and put them through a glaze fire again. An electrician (annoyingly) shut off the kiln an
  7. Hello I have been using a Hobbytech 40 kiln for a few years, I think early 90s age but it could be older. The label has burnt off. I run it off a 13amp supply. The kiln isn’t in the best of condition. I am planning on buying a larger, more suitable kiln in the coming weeks but until then, I have to make do and mend. Over the last few months, the wires are burning out and firing is becoming tricky. I have to replace the wires ever 4-5 firings. The usual wire to go if the one at the top element connection. Anybody got any idea what would be causing this? I have removed and repacke
  8. Hi there. I have two types of clay and I was wondering what the best firing schedule is for them for bisque? I have an electric Nabetherm kiln and I am making bowls/mugs. I don't really understand cones and so if possible, please explain using degrees C! Grogged Buff EarthenWare clay - Firing Temp.1000-1280deg.C Stoneware Special Fleck Clay - 1120∞c - 1280∞c Thank you !
  9. Hello! I recently purchased some Laguna Speckled Buff (WC-403) and have been throwing some pieces on the wheel. I have been looking for a perfect honey brown/light tan speckled clay and finally came across this one. Anyway, I made and fired some pieces with a Cone 6 cone in the kiln sitter and everything turned out kind of burned (?) looking and darker than I was expecting. I fired some more pieces but this time put a Cone 5 bar in the kiln sitter and got almost the same result My glazes also aren't showing up as well. Does anyone have any ideas of why it is coming out like this or have
  10. Hi there, I have Amaco Potters Choice glazes and they say that they should be fired to cone 5/6. I am very new to pottery and was wondering what this means in terms of the firing schedule in my Nabetherm kiln. I have been trying to get the effects as shown on their website but they do not look very similar! What would the different outcomes of cone 5 and 6 be? Thanks so much and really appreciate any help, lara
  11. Hi, newbie potter here, I'm having some issue with a brand new Rohde ecotop 60s kiln and I'm not sure if it's something normal or I had bad luck and received a bad kiln. I hope all the experienced people in this forum can help me out. I've just bough a new Rohde ecotop kiln (my first ever kiln) and after ONLY THREE FIRINGS the rope insulation on the outside of the barrel looks burned and the steel ring holding the lid is all stained from the heat. The lid doesn't sit fully on the brick walls letting heat escape, which caused the damage I think. As said I only fired 3 times at:
  12. Hi all! I am trying to make a small pizza oven out of raku clay. Any suggestions would be welcome, but especially any answers to: 1. How thick should the walls be? 2. Can I "self-fire" the oven by building a small fire inside instead of firing it in a kiln? I dont have my own kiln, and firing it locally could get pricey.
  13. Hi, I Bisqued this pot to 04 slowly. As you can see in the picture it goes almost full height of my kiln. I had half shelves stacked with ware from bottom to top next to it. The cone at the top of the kiln bent to touch the shelf, the cone at the bottom of the kiln bent to 3 o’clock. I am concerned that when I go to Cone 6, there will be too much stress at that temperature difference and this will cause a crack. I thought maybe I should do a hold somewhere in the firing to give it a chance to even out. The top will be off when I fire. It is on a thin bed of grog because I’m paranoid ab
  14. Just asking because . Whe bisquing I have all bunbgs out till 700degC then put all in except one on lid, top loader electric. Done this for years, still solid logic? No vent
  15. Hello! I just did a bisque firing with my Paragon A55B which has a manual kiln sitter. I fired to 06 in only 3 hours and 15 minutes following the suggested firing schedule from paragon. Which was as follows: 1 hour - Low, Top peephole out, lid vented 30 min - Medium, top peephole out, lid vented 30 min - High, top peephole out, lid vented Then just leave on high with peepholes in and lid closed. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best way to slow this cycle down a bit? Or do you think thats fine for a bisque? I imagine with more pots in it, it will slow it d
  16. My 6 week online course on Alternative firing techniques begins on Nov. 2-Dec 11 https://www.teachinart.com/alternative-firing.html. see more courses available online at https://www.teachinart.com. Marcia
  17. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day
  18. Hi, I am using Flax Paper Clay Porcelain ES6000 to make some small flowers and the finished pieces are around 1cm thick at the fattest point. The issue I have is that I have no idea how to go about firing and glazing porcelain. Do I bisque fire porcelain? If yes what temperature should I fire to? Can I fire porcelain in the same firing as other clays (B17C Stoneware) ? Looking on the Scarva website it says the firing temperature is 1220ºC - 1280ºC but I am unsure as to what temperature the clay stops being able to absorb glaze? Thank you so much in advance!!
  19. Hi everyone. I am in need of somewhere I can fire a kiln in Orange County, California. I live in an apartment and don't have the electrical or space necessary to do so. I've been given an old Duncan kiln, in rough shape, from a friend who didn't know how to use it. Looking for someone with a garage or private space to fire this or their kiln, some sort of kiln-sharing or kiln-coop situation. I have studios I take my work to fire to, but it is not ideal since pricing is more than it would be on my own, and since I can only reserve so many kiln loads. I need to be able to fire more frequently. A
  20. Hello, I recently graduated, but while I was in school, (and learning how to fire a kiln) I came across two common issues. The first was that everyone said to use a kiln log. (Although no one had a log handy when asked) And that the act of making a log was cumbersome. (To the point that when a log was found, the most critical data at the end was usually incomplete) So I taught myself how to code, and created an app to solve (my highly specific) problem! https://apps.apple.com/us/app/blaze-kiln-log/id1510609232 (Or search “Blaze Kiln Log” in the App Store) The app is c
  21. Hi!! I have just finished a sculpture of a baby using smooth red clay. This is my third clay sculpture, but first without a teacher to guide me. With my previous sculptures, it was easier to remove the armatures.. there were less detailed areas which made it less traumatic to cut open/join back together. I was also far less particular about my sculptures then as can be seen by the fact I removed the armatures far too early. Is it okay for me to leave the paper inside when I fire it? Also, how slowly should I dry it to make sure fingers, toes and ears don't crack? Any other
  22. Hi, Hope this hasn't been asked anywhere else and I'm repeating a question but I've scoured the internet and can't find much of help... Even though I have studied ceramics at 2 levels, during neither course were we taught about firing schedules... Over the past few years I've been using and tweaking schedules given to me by an amateur potter friend but they aren't cutting it anymore. I've recently been approached by 2 shops/galleries who want to sell my work but glaze faults are making it difficult for me to be happy with results as I can't seem to avoid miniature pinholing and am wo
  23. Hello! Does anybody have experience firing Standard Clay 112 or 182 to cone 06/6? These are the clays that I work with and typically my studio fires to cone 05/5. However, I have recently started working out of home and found a studio nearby that will fire my work, but to cone 06/6. I want to be sure that I like the result before committing to the change.
  24. Hi All! I'm so excited to be joining this forum! After MANY years I am finally working in my own studio with an old, left-behind kiln. My lovely, supportive, engineer husband has kindly built me a space and helped me to refurbish an old Cress electric kiln that was left at our house over 20 years ago. I have two questions: 1. We replaced the kiln setter assembly tube and just tried to test the kiln to Cone 04, but the sitter engaged early, way before the junior cone bent to 90 degrees. Can anyone advise me on how to identify the correct position for the plate that holds up the sitter claw to t
  25. Hey guys, so tomorrow I'll make a kiln with oil can (yes it's already washed) and pit firing, I'm trying to post a pic of it but the forum sucks at uploading it, so I'll try to explain: The idea is to dig a hole on the ground where I'm going to put the fire (wood and sawdust, and yes, there's room for the oxygen to get in), then I'll put a grill over it where pieces are going to be placed, I'll also put sawdust on them with some wood, then the oil can will be put over them to isolate the heat. That's my idea, what do you guys think? Will it work? Also, there's a hole on the top of the ca
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