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Chilly

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Everything posted by Chilly

  1. From the album: Kiln Stuff

  2. Hi @Ceramics.np.04 I'm assuming you are in the UK ? I was in a similar position 2 years ago. Same type of error with a Stafford controller. When we removed the thermocouple it was broken, but still working sometimes! I did a lot of research into replacements. The kiln companies either couldn't supply, or wanted stupid money, so I bought from Peak Sensors. I think I sent them a photo of the offending part. (It was 2.5 years ago, and I've slept since then!)
  3. I never put them in. On both top loader and front loader.
  4. Try popping it in the freezer for 24 hours. The GENTLY tap the post while holding the pot.
  5. We wrote T.I.D. on a shopping list once. Could NOT work out what it meant until the next time (months later) we wanted to make prawn cocktails. It caused great hilarity at gatherings where we tried to get friends to guess. Best wrong answer was Tinned Italian Dogfish.
  6. If you made the bottom of the pot slightly concave, leaving a kind of foot ring, you could paint as you are now, and then lightly rub the foot ring so it was almost clean, leaving a ghost of the drawing. Then it might not stick.
  7. I love Callie's comments about be prepared with a professional approach. A different business, but I teach children (and adults) to ride a bicycle. I started by teaching any age, but soon realised that the 5 year olds who didn't want to ride were more hassle than any fee could compensate for. I started off by telling callers that I didn't teach under 7s, they needed a different approach. After a number of persistent parent telling me their child was "mature for their age", I blurted out "but I'm not insured" to someone who was really pressing all my buttons. Silence came down the phone line. Eventually he said, oh, OK, I'll come back next year. That made me realise I needed to think of every possible question I might get for other teaching problems, and have a ready, plausible, and professional answer. I actually have a word document with them in, and re-read them at the start of the season.
  8. yes, do this, but a wide stick, that will stand up by itself. I have a jar lid that just fits my moulded mugs, cover it with plastic, sit it on a narrow jar. But it's slow.
  9. So long as no part is thicker than 12 - 15mm, and you let it dry thoroughly, and do a slow bisque, it could be ok. Pottery explodes when the inside of the form cannot dry, as it can't evaporate through the too-thick clay. You could cut a finished figurine in half, scoop out the inside, and rejoin. Or you could use your figurine as a master and make a plaster mould and cast the final object.
  10. You need to make/find a support that fits inside. I found a plastic pot just the right size, with a perfectly flat bottom. It fits over a piece of wood to give some height.
  11. Try it, that's the only true way to find out. What have you got to lose?
  12. You can use clay as a master, just before it gets to leather hard, but strong (and thick) enoug to hold shape, and the weight of the plaster. I made a mug master out of solid clay. The final item will be smaller than your master model. You can pour slip into a plaster mould, or moist clay. Try finding a book at your library. There are too many variables and options to teach you everything, from scratch, in this forum.
  13. You'll find out the first time you use a runny glaze, the wrong glaze or the wrong temp or cone for the clay.
  14. Absolutely. Too cold/damp in winter. Too hot/bright in summer. But then my studio is in a greenhouse. I make do as best I can. I have insulating mats on the floor. I wear rubber gloves most of the time while hand-building and always while glazing. Last summer I put a gazebo up in front of the greenhouse to provide shade and worked outside.
  15. Works for me, suspect it's too clever and knows you're too far away - lol
  16. Hi @Iona Green As @Babssays, it's probably underfired. UK clay often is quoted with too large a firing range, which is really unhelpful. Clay needs to be fired to almost/at the highest quoted temperatures for it to vitrify. Even with a good coat of glaze on all surfaces, some combinations will leak when fired too low. What temperature/cone did you bisque fore? What temperature /cone did you glaze fire? (I'm assuming you didn't single-fire.)
  17. I read, somewhere, some time ago, that it was ok to add 30% reclaim to new slip, and it wouldn't affect it.
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