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What Sort Of Stirrer Do You Use.


Babs

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Having just watched John Britt videos, I am envious of his stick blender and the head on it.. At the mo. I use my partner's drill with a paint stirring bit. The bit shank is long and the stirring face small in diameter. and I have to Scrupulously clean every bit of glay/glaze from every part.

I was considering releasing my stick blender from domestic duties but fear for its life line.

What do you guys use?

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When you're using buckets, regardless of what type of stirrer you use, there is no substitute for using your hand to check the bottom of the bucket after stirring to be certain that part of the glaze has not hard-panned there.

 

Putting on only some of the glaze ingredients is not the same as putting on all of the glaze ingredients.  Over time we occasionally find a glaze that need more Calcium Chloride to reflocculate.

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I have a paint mixer, plastic head/metal shaft, that I use on a drill. I used to use a metal headed mixer, but that had a tendency to eat the bottom of the bucket a bit requiring an extra strain. i also use a stick blender for slips and engobes, and for a glaze recently drill mixed I use the good old toilet brush-a trick I learned here.

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I got a heavy stirrer from the Bray store that doesn't chew up plastic buckets. I also have some jiffy mixers is three various sizes. Then, as Norm says check with your hands to make sure everything is mixed.

Marcia

 

I always sieve the first time before using and if it has been a while since using.

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I have several different sizes of paint stirrer that you use with a drill, tried a plunger didn't like using it.  If I'm mixing a new batch I pour it through a coarse mesh first then a fine mesh bucket to bucket.  If  I am mixing and old glaze, I'll use a paint stirrer and then check the bottom with my hand, if I am still unhappy with the consistency I run it through the mesh again.  Denice

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Use an ex-food stick mixer for amounts up to 2L, more than that and they burn out!   Use a drill with paint mixer blades (have 3 sizes) for bigger buckets up to 20L.

 

Do check the bottom to make sure all ingredients have mixed, then sieve through 80 mesh screen.

 

Do fair amount of slipcasting so use a 1500watt drill with large steel paint mixer for 20L buckets of clay slip.

 

Irene

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For mixing small batches, nothing beats a stick blender. No screening necessary. Mine seem to last about a year if I'm using them a lot. The abrasiveness of the glaze materials eats up the bearings. I just buy the cheapest ones I can find, usually around $15. Some even come with a mixing cup that is quite handy to have around the studio. I got a really nice stainless cup with one of my mixers. For big buckets, any type of paint mixer on a drill will work. Metal versions can chew up buckets, so watch out there.

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I finally returned back to clay work this week after moping/cleaning the studio a bit. I have taken  6 week break from clay work after x-mass. Taxes are ready  now for accountant and I was able to take a photo of what mixers I use almost every week.

I have them for any size bucket or condition of glaze -Hard settled or mixes easy-Huge bucket or tiny test batch -the red one was just given to me to try and I will next week-the metal ones I have used for years and wear them out and then replace them-I always have a few new ones in boxes ready to go

I use the largest ones every week as well as the smallest-I keep a few 1/2 shaft diameter ones in 1/2 corded drills ( my glaze area has a low ceiling outlet above to plug these in overhead) and a few med to smalls in cordless drill drills.

These are high use tools for me and when they wear out -I need one that day so I keep them in stock. The hanson (brand name) ones (the ones with the thicker stouter materials have yet to wear out -the Jiffy mixers I wear out every few years. I use flat bottom buckets do not go thru the bottoms.

The hansoms really work best on hard settled glazes  but do not mix the whole bucket as well as a Jiffy but the jiffy's do not work the hard bottom glazes as well-hence both kinds always at the ready. After mixing the bucket  with these I use wood glaze sticks to stir that glaze day.Every bucket has a stick. 

Hope this helps on choices

Mark

post-8914-0-14310000-1392269125_thumb.jpg

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I finally returned back to clay work this week after moping/cleaning the studio a bit. I

Moping! That's what bookwork does for you!

Thanks for the other info. Having extra on hand makes sense, hour drive to store here wher ethey may/may not have any in store.

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Its a jiffy mixer PS-1

as well as the one that I use the most-and wear out the soonest.

 

 
PS-1
 
Price: $49.95
 

Made of 304 polished stainless steel, the PS-1 model is designed for heavy duty jobs in 5-10 gal. (20-40 qt.) containers.  It easily fits any 1/2" electric chucked power tool.  The PS-1 model is designed for a max speed of 800 RPMS.  Tools with 450-750 RPMS get the best rate of thorough mixing.  MIxers can be permanently installed if desired.

 

Shaft Length Container Size Top Diameter Bottom Diameter Depth of Head Shaft Diameter in. mm   in. mm in. mm in. mm in. mm 20 1/2 521 5-10 gal. 4 5/8 117 5 1/8 130 5 127 1/2 13
 
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Thanks Mark, looking out for this baby.

 

 

Hi Babs,

 

....you can get a very similar one in Aus. at Bunnings Hardware stores for about $15, they're used by boat builders to mix up the fibreglass 'slurry' they use for hull repairs. I use one on a large drill for my 10-20L size buckets and its a very efficient brute!

 

Irene

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Thanks Mark, looking out for this baby.

 

 

Hi Babs,

 

....you can get a very similar one in Aus. at Bunnings Hardware stores for about $15, they're used by boat builders to mix up the fibreglass 'slurry' they use for hull repairs. I use one on a large drill for my 10-20L size buckets and its a very efficient brute!

 

Irene

 

Thanks Irene, wll check it out when next on the mainland

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