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Bill T.

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    Gilmer, Texas

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  1. Rogue, I just turn let the kiln turn off and cool down by itself. Sometime leave the vent on for a couple of hours. (Anxious) The only thing I could think of is some contamination on the bisque fired clay, finger spots, etc.
  2. Sorry about your problems with Stoned Denium. It is one of my favorite glazes. I fire a 1027 to cone 6 using this glaze dipped. Up to cone 6 in 7 1/2 hours with vent then regular cool down. Nice shiny glaze. My only worry is that it seems to be really thick out of the dip, but I have never had a problem with it.
  3. Bioman, you probably are familiar with Trinity Ceramics in Dallas. They carry a lot of the Laguna clay. I get my Speckled Buff there. Check out Armadillo's Cinco Blanco and Cone 5 white clay also.
  4. In the morning before it reaches 107F here in the oven that is Texas classical music on the area NPR station. Always classical music whether I'm working in clay or wood.
  5. Go to the Amaco web site, look for section about layering glazes. Look over the color sheets for ideas. That will get her started and will probably cost you too.
  6. Wife and I were in London on Armistice Day several years ago visiting Westminster Cathedral. All around the grounds were small areas recognizing each unit of their Armed Services that had fought in WWI. Among the decorations were thousands of paper poppies and every one was wearing one. It was quite a moving experience.
  7. I found this kiln wash several years ago. Fire only about 2x a month. This wash does fine for me (cone 5-6) doesn't flake and gives a little texture to the shelf so objects can slide a little during firing. Would probably be too expensive for a large kiln but for my 3 shelf Skutt I usually recoat 2x a year. In the 10 years I have had my kiln have never flipped shelves, they must be good no warping.
  8. Clay lover: Sorry can't figure out the quote function. I hold 10 minutes at 2180 just to settle everything down. No scientific reason except it seems to work with the glazes I use. I'm glad this topic has generated some interest and a lot of good suggestions from the folks that have done it a lot. Maybe you will feel more comfortable tackling the job by oneself. .
  9. Can't be much help with the first questions, only that my firings had increased in time about an hour and hard to reach 2180 cone 6 for me. I fire 150 degrees per hour for the last 200 degrees, and this is where it seemed to take too long. You do not have to bend the Skutt elements. They are pre-bent for each angle. You do have to hold them up in a straight line so they can settle to the correct curvature. Then keeping all in line just work your way around the element holders. Skutt includes pretty good directions, 2 ceramic spacers, 2 new connectors and lots of pins. There is also a video on You Tube made by Skutt. It really is as easy as the lady makes it look. Check it out.
  10. After hundreds of bisque and Cone 6 firings my Skutt 1027 was beginning to lag down. Time for new elements. Having never done this before I was a bit concerned not with the actual process of replacement and rewiring, but with getting the old elements out without tearing up the element channels. Thank goodness the 1027 is sectional, and I could put each section on the bench and work with good view and not with my bu...up in the air while bending down in a hole. I learned the trick to getting the elements out without damage on the first one. Don't just pull...carefully twist the element out of its channel. Little back and forth twisting motions. Did not damage a single channel. Probably over zealous in the use of the element pins, but Skutt sent a whole lot with each element so I used more than what was first in it. New thermocoupler, cleaned the outside case, painted the stand, cleaned and oiled the exhaust vent, it almost looks like a new kiln again. So tomorrow a breakin firing with cone packs to check everything out.
  11. I use compressed air from my big compressor. Has worked well for 10 years, although it might depend on the clay you are throwing with. I set the compressor for about 90# of pressure and use a small hand-held blow gun. My shop has a garage door so I do all of this outside.
  12. Since you are in Austin, have you checked with Armadillo Clay? Their web site shows it.
  13. I have an old Gare kiln about 3 cu/ft that I am planning on making a raku kiln out of. Since I'm a little flush from good Christmas sales I want to buy a Ward burner. Which of these burners do I want? "With 1-8 PSI, the MR750 Single System is rated at 54,365 to 153,768 BTU's, The MR100 is rated at 68,347 to 193,303 BTU's." Probably will run them on propane, have gas available but will wait to see how all goes learning to fire the kiln. Have already bought a digital pyrometer. Thanks for the help.
  14. I picked up a stick blender at a garage sale cheap. It works great. I like it because it will get to the bottom of my containers to stir that up. I don't mix buckets of glaze just about a gallon size container.
  15. Here is the MC6 suggested firing schedule (with a slow cooling if you want to use it). Deg F/hour Temp & hold Ramp 1 100 220/0 R 2 350 2000/0 R 3 150 2190/15 or where cone 6 is bent correctly, depends on your kiln mine bends at 2185 To continue with slow cooling cycle R 4 -500 1900/0 R 5 -125 1400/0 "For bisque firings we recommend slow firing (100C, 180F per hour from 100C to 900C, 212F to 1650F). This is when chemically combined water and organics are burn off. This is especially important with iron bearing bodies to stop any reduction of iron which can over flux clay." " For bisque firing a 5-10 minute soak at the end of the firing cycle can be advantageous......." MC6 John Hesselberth & Ron Roy. My glaze firing with at Skutt 1027 pretty full is about 8 1/2 hours and bisque about 12 1/2.
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