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Everything posted by timbo_heff

  1. Maybe line with this castable refractory: Probably your best bet http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/LOUCAST-3000-CASTABLE-MORTAR-p/lvclc.htm
  2. Manufacturer of North Respirators recommends changing after 8 hours of use !
  3. Have heard anecdotal evidence of this.... Thanks JB for knowing that it's correct and also why ! .... you are the best!
  4. The Sheffield one is darn close to perfect. Not that far from albany, didn't take much modification of the natural clay there to make it almost identical empirically and physically http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/ALBANY-SLIP-SUBSTITUTE-by-the-pound-p/rmalbsub.htm
  5. The 2 different 110 plugs indicate different amperage on the circuit and also should indicate the wiring in the wall as well. The standard household outlet is for 15 amps max. Very few kilns can run on such a small amount of amperage. Household voltage kilns usually need a 20 amp breaker and circuit. Don't just change the 15 amp outlet to the 20 amp outlet willy-nilly : the wiring from the panel to that outlet may only accommodate 15 amps max. By pulling more amps than the wire can handle you are asking for trouble, like big trouble, like a fire.
  6. Sheffield Black is cool and dark as heck It's c05 Low-fire earthenware http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/BLACK-MOIST-EARTHENWARE-POTTERY-CLAY-p/mc94600.htm
  7. This one works: much thicker http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/CERAMIC-BEAD-BAR-p/kcbbh.htm
  8. In addition to the kiln god figure to create, there are some traditional offerings to make, lamb, bamboo, colored paper etc. 31295017115808.pdf - Repositories
  9. Cowan amber Celadon in John Britt's Complete Guide to High fire glazes is lovely: Sometimes does crazy fantastic blue hares fur when pummeled with wood ash for days on end too! (that's it doing that in my profile picture). Although the back side away from the ash stays that honey amber. 44 custer 12.8 silica 17.7 whiting 6.1 ball clay 11.1 redart 2 bone ash 3.8 talc 2.5 g. borate 4.1 RIO
  10. The vent is for the wares and the potter but since the clay is now sintered, rebisque fire will not get any more of the potential problems out; once sintered, the clay cannot release those gasses until near top temp when the clay is as close to molten as it gets.
  11. Hi Rebeka : It reallly is all about the grog content: otherwise no big difference. Some sculpture bodies, especially for those who make super large things may have Kyanite as well which is an odd material that actually gets bigger not smaller when fired. The grog (and Kyanite) is really about restricting cracking that can happen with a thick thing from shrinkage. But in general, take your favorite stoneware or eathenware, add 10-15% grog and there is your sculpture clay
  12. Bailey kilns are nice nice : they are Cone Arts wearing a Bailey t-shirt
  13. no point in slowing in the glaze fire: the clay is sintered so gasses cannot escape. Do a hold in the bisque fire at about 1500 (sintering starts at 1600) for 2 hours ideally. Loose stack for the bisque, don't tumble stack the dark clays
  14. Sharp little volcano bubbles come from either cooling to quickly or from overfiring the glaze.
  15. Some wheels are available in 220 euro voltage but some are not. Plug adapter will not do it for sure! : you need a voltage converter to 120. They are not very expensive (Maybe around $75)
  16. Don't worry about the shinkage in terms of glaze fit: It is COE that determines glaze fit Shrinkage and COE are not related. Do your test tiles with the glazes you want to use: If they are too loose or too tight, adjust the glazes.
  17. Ceramic fiber is spun Kaolin clay: like fiberglass but much more toxic. Paper fiber is just that: paper: easily made by putting a roll of toilet paper in a small bucket of water: As Colby said above, the paper does not make it more translucent, but what it does is give you the ability to make super thin slabs : hence you can make more translucent objects. The clay is not more translucent but a thinner wall will pass a lot more light than a thicker wall !
  18. The cone arts are made in Toronto and are all CSA approved : do that! The hassle of of gas kiln will not be worth it, and you will need to get a CSA field inspection which costs some bucks and highly unlikely that they will approve a updraft gas kiln. Think Bob Dylan circa 1965 : time to "go electric"
  19. Hi, You must mean paper fiber ! If so then yes!!!
  20. A fun and versatile way to get the look of a black clay is to make some slip with the clay you are using, tint it with black mason stain and put that on the freshly made pot. You can then scratch or scrafitto through that to the lighter clay below for another decorative element. It is generally cost prohibitive to tint a lot of clay so by just tinting a slip of it, it stays affordable too.
  21. There was a good explanation by John Baymore recently: Can't remember if if was here or on FB. I can't find it now: hopefully he will appear here and copy and paste from the other thread or give a link to it. I know that it is not the wet state: it is very small particles that are sent into the air during firing that are the most potentially hazarous
  22. Read about manganese before you fire it
  23. Also : is it covered in a layer of kaowool ? old kaowool = very bad
  24. The RAM fountain glazer is big time saver in production glazing: not cheap though! http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/RAM-Fountain-Glazer-p/ramfg.htm
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