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Mudslinger Ceramics

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About Mudslinger Ceramics

  • Birthday July 3

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    http://www.mudslingerceramics.net
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    MudslingerCeramics

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  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Love UK potters Kate Malone's lush earthenware glazes & Magdelene Udundo's silken burninshed gourd shapes, US Peter Voulkas tortured platters, contemporary Japanese tableware, traditional Korean teabowls, Greek black/red pottery, &... Australian Les Blakebrough's Southern Ice porcelain, Gwyn Hanson Pigott's serene 'still life' pieces, Angela Mellor's stunning bonechina! ..... just to name a few!!

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  1. This is beautiful! Love mixed media works and the 'olde-world' feel of this piece!
  2. Hi Sylvia 'Burnt linseed oil' or 'burnt plate oil' are partly polymerised linseed oils used to change the viscosity of printing inks which are often very thick . The oils come in 3 or 4 grades 'thick - think molasses, down to thin - think cooking oil. If the oil is partly polymerised then it doesn't destroy the paper surface as the acidity in regular linseed oil does. For printing on clay that acidity doesn't matter , the oil will be fired off but the viscosity of the ink might matter. Are you making your ink from scratch or buying a commercial product and modifying it? 'Inexpensive' and 'over size' printing may be very hard to find. Look for secondhand or ex-commercial sales......or..... use a regular laser printer, which can be inexpensive, and 'tile' the separate parts of your image into one. I have done this. Be good to see your finished result!
  3. Hi Have been given a lot of lead bearing enamel powders from my grandmother's estate. These lead bearing enamels were used on copper and silver jewellery pieces. I met a potter many, many years ago who used enamels such as these sprinkled on top of low temperature lead bearing glazes in her ceramic work. She would fire the work and the enamel would sink into the glaze layer. Beautiful results. Having been given these enamels I would like to try a similar technique but can't find that potter's contact details. Am aware of safe handling concerns of lead as these types of enamel are still used on metals and I have a small kiln dedicated only to my experiments. This process will NOT be used on food surfaces but is planned for sculpture. Was thinking to make my own lead based low temperature glaze but the old lead frits are no longer available from the suppliers near me. So now I'm considering a commonly available raku glaze. Being a commercial glaze I don't know its formula...maybe boron based? I will experiment with this process, but was wondering if the chemistry nerds here might have an idea of the chemical outcome of this process? Firing will be to 750-800C (1380-1472F) Thanks in advance.
  4. Thanks liambesaw! Just looked that up and found the Etsy shop. Am happy to start there as Canadian $ are similar to Australian so I know what I'm up for. The company is based in Canada https://yuyo.ca/keraflex-porcelain-sheet-a3-sheet-thickness-0-5mm-sold-by-1-sheet-kera005-bulk-prc-avlb/ Will contact them and see if direct shipping without the Etsy 'middleman' fees is possible. ta!
  5. Well...that's disappointing!! The Ceramic Art Cart webpage is blank. The Facebook groups seem to have their last posts in 2015-6. There is a European site that describes it but is a wholesaler and doesn't do smaller orders. It has been available at NCECA but I am a LONG way from there. Will keep looking. If someone knows a source of this product, please tell. Have found some of the previous discussions about this product... YES!! Just now found one of my old posts in 2014 asking for a recipe similar to Keraflex! Had long forgotten so am happy with that! Also posting the link to the PDF mentioned in the answers . https://static1.squarespace.com/static/527ac372e4b0d4e47bb0e554/t/527fd23fe4b0f7fd724aba83/1384108607291/tape+casting.pdf Have a starting point now. Relief.
  6. Yay!!!! Just found it!!! Brand name is 'Keraflex'. The company is called Ceramic Art Cart. Relief!! Thanks again for all your replies!
  7. Hi all. Thanks for the replies! No the paper clay product was not a ceramic fibre 'paper' for kiln shelves. It was , as Neil said, an unfired paperclay that you could manipulate like paper...think origami. There was only the one supplier and so it was expensive(!!!) but gave a beautiful translucency especially when used in lighting design. The video Min has suggested is a similar product but seems to be pre-fired. Robin calls it porcelain 'canvas'. An internet search brings up pre-fired products that are used by porcelain painters as a flat panel alternative to plates. The product I'm thinking of was sold as sheets but was highly manipulative. The product can bear up to repeat firings but was sold in it's raw state to allow for shaping. It's that ability to be folded and manipulated that I'm looking for. The alumina content was high in it and it could be fired to 1300C (2372F) Have tried making my own but I'm getting nowhere. Can get the thinness I want but it tears or splits too easily. Have tried different fibres, additions and plasticers but still no luck. Don't want to give up. Still hoping someone remembers the name.
  8. Coming back to ceramics after years away. Remember there being a proprietary product of thin, high firing, fine clay sheets that could be cut with scissors. Was very white like porcelain. Could buy it a 2mm thin sheets. It's formula was a company secret but I think it had a high alumina content. Could only be bought from the manufacturer 's website in the US. Have seen it discussed on this site but getting no love from the Search tool and hoping someone knows the name of the product. Thanks in advance.
  9. Try a fine raku or sculpture paperclay mix from a ceramics supplier which will be strong enough if built on a wooden batt and not moved off it ......or get some dried out clay add 50/50 paper pulp or clean paper cat litter, add into hot water and mix thoroughly. Next morning knead and wedge before using. Both these paperclay mixes can be quite strong if not moved too often and can be fired later when you have access to a kiln. Paint a good layer of PVA glue to seal, let dry and then paint with acrylics or other decorative paints. Paper fibres help bond the clay particles and make a stronger, but not permanent or unbeakable, clay body. Irene
  10. .......beware...crack pot!!!

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